In This Issue of The Paris Love Letter

• Café Culture: Les Cafés Flottants – Paris' Floating Cafés

• Hidden Gems: A Dance of Color and Emotion at Atelier des Lumières

• Travel Tips: Cruising Paris with Batobus

• Édith Piaf: Paris' Little Sparrow

• The Age of Salons: Where Parisian Intellect and Artistry Converged

• The Ghost Metro Stations of Paris: Echos of a Bygone Era

• Featured French Song: Edith Piaf - La vie en rose

➡️ The Cheapest Nicest Hotels in Paris - This is an excellent article from Condé Nast Traveler, sent to me by one of our readers. Merci, Don!

There’s an undeniable charm to the Parisian café culture – the clinking of glasses, the murmur of conversations, the tantalizing aroma of fresh croissants. Now, imagine that delightful experience set against the gentle sway of water, the subtle hum of the Seine underneath, and the iconic Parisian sights drifting by.

Welcome to Les Cafés Flottants, or Paris' floating cafés.

These floating wonders are more than just regular cafés – they're a truly unique Parisian experience. Moored along the scenic banks of the Seine and other Parisian waterways, these establishments blend the traditional Parisian café experience with the unparalleled ambiance of being on the water.

One such gem is Le Rosa Bonheur sur Seine, nestled close to the Musée d'Orsay. Its relaxed atmosphere and tapas-style dishes provide a delightful escape from the city's hustle. Further along the Seine, Le Marcounet is both a wine barge and a café. Positioned on the Quai de l'Hôtel de ville, its lively ambiance, often elevated with live music, offers a rich local experience. And for those looking to mix relaxation with a touch of entertainment, Le Flow is an ideal choice. Located right at the foot of the Invalides Bridge, it serves as a café and boasts a rooftop and a concert hall.

Whether you're perched on the deck of Le Rosa Bonheur watching the sunset over Notre Dame, enjoying a musical evening at Le Marcounet, or savoring a drink on Le Flow's rooftop, the water's magic adds tranquility and romance.

Next time you're in Paris, don't just settle for any café. Seek out one of these floating gems, secure a table by the railing, and let the city's beauty surround you from all sides. The combination of classic café culture and the mesmerizing Seine is bound to create memories that'll last a lifetime.

Stepping into Atelier des Lumières is like diving into a pool of vibrant colors, where art surrounds and engulfs you, resonating with every beat of your heart. Nestled in the 11th arrondissement, this pioneering digital art museum in Paris transforms classic and contemporary masterpieces into immersive experiences that defy convention.

Laura and I have been fortunate to witness the magic of this place on multiple occasions. We've lost ourselves in the swirling colors of Van Gogh and have been entranced by the golden opulence of Klimt. Each exhibit we've seen has been a unique journey, transporting us directly into the canvas of some of history's most beloved artists.

Currently, the Atelier is showcasing two distinct yet equally mesmerizing exhibitions:

VAN GOGH, STARRY NIGHT: Dive deep into the world of Vincent van Gogh, a visionary who was tragically overlooked during his life yet transformed the realm of painting. This exhibition takes you on a journey through his life's pivotal moments and locales, from Neunen and Arles to the streets of Paris and the serene landscapes of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and Auvers-sur-Oise. As you traverse these periods, you're embraced by the essence of his artistry – from sun-drenched fields to shadowed nights, each scene infused with intense emotion and the delicate dance of light and dark.

YVES KLEIN, INFINITE BLUE: The azure expanses of the Mediterranean sky greatly influenced Nice-born Yves Klein. Profoundly believing that "painting is COLOUR," Klein aspired to liberate and magnify color in its raw essence. Through 90 masterpieces and 60 evocative archival images, 'Yves Klein: Infinite Blue' thrusts you into the heart of his artistic brilliance. The stirring strings of Vivaldi juxtapose with Thylacine's contemporary electronic beats, echoing Klein's desire to elevate pure color.

The Atelier des Lumières is not just an art space but a testament to Paris’s enduring spirit of innovation and the city's passion for blending the old with the new. If you're seeking an experience that touches the soul, a visit here is essential. The combination of art, music, and digital mastery promises an unparalleled artistic pilgrimage.

The heart of Paris beats in rhythm with the flow of the Seine, and what better way to feel its pulse than by cruising along its waters? While there are numerous boat tours in Paris, the Batobus presents a unique blend of leisure and utility, allowing you to soak in iconic views while conveniently navigating the city.

Why Choose Batobus?

1. Scenic Serenity: Skimming along the Seine aboard the Batobus offers unparalleled views of landmarks like the Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame, and the Louvre. The river's reflections and shifting lights lend a magical quality, giving you a fresh perspective on the city's architectural gems.

2. Flexibility: The hop-on-hop-off service means you're in control. Want to linger longer at a particular spot? No problem. Just catch the next shuttle.

3. Convenience: With stops near major attractions, it's an excellent way to cover a lot of ground without the fatigue of walking or navigating the metro.

   

Maximizing Your Batobus Experience:

1. Golden Hour Glow: The hour just before sunset is mesmerizing for photographers or romantics. The soft golden light bathes the city, creating a dreamy atmosphere. It's an opportune moment to be on the water, capturing Paris in its most flattering light.

2. Off-Peak Exploration: While the Batobus is popular, consider riding in the late morning or early afternoon during weekdays to avoid peak times. You'll likely find a quieter, more relaxed ambiance.

3. Key Stops: While every stop has its charm, make sure not to miss the Saint-Germain-des-Prés for its café culture and historic charm and the Hôtel de Ville for its majestic architecture and proximity to the Marais district.

4. Stay Vigilant: Like any popular tourist spot, keep an eye on your belongings. Pickpocketing can be an issue, especially in crowded settings.

5. Weather Wise: The river glistens beautifully on sunny days, but don't dismiss a cloudy day. The overcast sky can lend a dramatic backdrop to the city's landmarks. However, remember to dress appropriately. The breeze off the water can be cooler than on land.

Taking the Batobus isn’t just about getting from Point A to B. It's about drifting along historical waterways, framed by iconic silhouettes, and seeing Paris unfold from an ever-changing vantage point. Whether you're a first-time visitor or a seasoned Parisian, this river shuttle offers a refreshing and delightful travel alternative.

Paris echoes with stories, each note more passionate than the last, and among its most poignant tales is that of Édith Piaf. Born Édith Giovanna Gassion in the cobbled lanes of Belleville, one of Paris's working-class neighborhoods, her journey from singing on street corners to world-renowned stages is the stuff of legends.

Piaf's life was a medley of sorrows and triumphs. Orphaned at a young age and brought up by her grandmother, who ran a brothel, Piaf's formative years were immersed in an atmosphere of grit and grace. It's said that her early exposure to the harsh realities of life imbued her voice with the unique rawness and vulnerability that became her signature.

The streets of Paris played a crucial role in shaping Piaf's destiny. Discovered by a nightclub owner while singing on the streets of Montmartre, her rise to fame was swift but never smooth. Her petite frame earned her the nickname "Little Sparrow," but her voice, powerful and emotive, told tales of love, loss, and longing that resonated deeply with listeners.

Among her many songs, "La Vie en Rose" remains an anthem of love. Its lyrics, speaking of seeing life through rose-tinted glasses when in love, echo the romanticism Paris is celebrated for. Meanwhile, "Non, je ne regrette rien" (I regret nothing) epitomizes Piaf's approach to life, embracing every moment, every sorrow, every joy, and cherishing the memories.

Piaf's relationship with Paris was symbiotic. The city offered her inspiration, and in return, she gave it timeless melodies. As you walk the alleys of Montmartre or the boulevards of Belleville, you can almost hear the haunting refrains of her songs, reminding you of the undying spirit of Paris and its Little Sparrow.

No recounting of Paris's cultural history would be complete without acknowledging the indelible mark Édith Piaf left on its heart. Her life was a reflection of passion, resilience, and the transformative power of music. And even today, Piaf's legacy resonates in every corner of the city she once called home.

Paris, in the 17th and 18th centuries, was not just the city of love but the city of enlightenment, art, and revolution. At the heart of this transformative era were the salons - intimate gatherings that took place in the grand drawing rooms of the city's elite. Here, the arts and intellect intertwined in a dance that would shape European thought and culture.

Leading Ladies of Enlightenment: The women who hosted these salons were not just mere facilitators; they were central figures, often well-educated and influential. They actively participated in and steered the discussions. Women like Madame Geoffrin, Madame de Stäel, and defied the traditional gender norms of their time, emerging as key figures in the Age of Enlightenment.

A Mélange of Minds: These salons were melting pots of diverse thoughts. Philosophers like Voltaire and Diderot rubbed shoulders with playwrights like Racine and Molière. This free exchange of ideas across disciplines fostered an environment of creativity and critical thinking. It was here that the seeds of the French Revolution and the Enlightenment were sown.

Artistic Arenas: Beyond philosophy and literature, the salons also played a pivotal role in the arts. Musicians, painters, and sculptors showcased their work, received feedback, and collaborated on projects. These gatherings became the earliest forms of art critiques, guiding and influencing aesthetic directions.

Legacy: The influence of the salons did not end in the 18th century. Their spirit can be seen in the literary and art gatherings of the 19th and 20th centuries. The idea of creating spaces—both physical and intellectual—for free thought and expression is a concept that continues to shape cultural and social movements today.

Today, as you walk through the cobbled streets of Paris amidst its modern hustle and bustle, take a moment to remember the drawing rooms where once the heart of Parisian culture beat, where ideas flowed as freely as wine, and where revolutions - both of the mind and the state - took shape.

Beneath the bustling streets of Paris, a maze of tunnels and train tracks crisscrosses the city's underbelly. Within this labyrinth lie the "stations fantômes" or ghost stations - abandoned metro stations that once served the City of Lights. They now stand silent, relics of an older Paris filled with memories and whispers of days long past.

Why Were They Abandoned?
Several reasons led to the abandonment of these metro stations. Some were closed for logistical reasons, while others were shuttered during the Second World War and never reopened. A few were built but never used, forever waiting for the trains and passengers that would never come.

Stations Transformed:
While many of these stations remain hidden from the public, a few have found new life. For instance:.

• Porte des Lilas – Cinéma: Originally used for Line 3bis, it's now frequently used for movie shoots, earning its cinema moniker.

  

  Porte des Lilas – Cinéma

A Veil of Mystery:
There are countless tales and urban legends associated with these ghost stations. From rumored secret World War II hideouts to tales of the stations being haunted by the spirits of those who once frequented them, each station has its own tale to tell.

Visiting the Ghost Stations:
While most of these abandoned stations remain closed to the general public, there have been talks in the past about repurposing them into swimming pools, nightclubs, or public gardens. Occasionally, special events or tours offer a glimpse into these enigmatic spaces, giving one a chance to touch a hidden piece of Parisian history.

For those who yearn to unravel the mysteries of a city, these ghost stations offer a tantalizing glimpse into what lies beneath. They remind us that even in a city as well-known as Paris, secrets are still waiting to be discovered.

Edith Piaf - La vie en rose (Officiel) Live Version

I thought it would be perfect to include Edith Piaf's enchanting rendition of La Vie en Rose in this newsletter since we wrote a bit about her in this issue. I love watching musicians perform their music live, so this version struck a chord with me (pun intended 😜).