🇫🇷 💌 The Paris Love Letter

Frenchie (Restaurant) + Meteorological Observatory + Stravinsky Fountain + Paris Commune of 1871

In This Issue of The Paris Love Letter

  • Café Culture - Frenchie: A Tale of Culinary Couture in the Heart of Paris

  • Hidden Gems - A Hidden Scientific Treasure: The Meteorological Observatory in Parc Montsouris

  • Art & Literature - Dancing Waters and Whimsical Sculptures: The Story of Stravinsky Fountain

  • A Peek Into History - Echoes of Revolution: Tracing the Paris Commune of 1871 in Modern Paris

  • French Song of The Week - "Les Etoiles" by Melody Gardot (live)

FOUND IN PARIS
Fun & Useful Links

➡️ Le Maris: A Paris Neighborhood Guide - In this Travel + Leisure article, you'll journey through the cobblestone streets of one of the city's most dynamic and historically significant districts. From exploring its storied past to indulging in contemporary cultural offerings, the Marais presents a delightful blend of history, art, and Parisian lifestyle. Whether you're a history buff, a fashion enthusiast, or a culinary explorer, this guide to the Marais is your gateway to experiencing the authentic spirit of Paris.

➡️ 42 Best Things To Do In Paris Right Now - Condé Nast article: This guide offers a comprehensive list of activities and sights, ranging from the iconic Eiffel Tower to lesser-known local favorites. Perfect for travelers looking to experience both the famous and the hidden aspects of Paris, this article provides practical suggestions for anyone wanting to delve deeper into the city's culture, history, and cuisine. Whether you're a first-time visitor or returning to discover more, these insights will help you make the most of your Parisian adventure.

CAFÉ CULTURE
Frenchie: A Tale of Culinary Couture in the Heart of Paris

Nestled in the heart of Paris' 2nd arrondissement, down the cobblestone embrace of rue du Nil, stands a café that's more than just a dining spot; it embodies Parisian revival and culinary innovation. Frenchie, the brainchild of Greg Marchand, a chef who honed his craft in the hustle of London's esteemed kitchens, has rooted itself into the fabric of Parisian café culture with a flourish that whispers of history and modernity.

By opening Frenchie, I created a place I would have loved to go to, and more importantly, return to. It's a micro-restaurant, it's intimate, you feel good there. The staff is like a little family. Here, the product is given carte blanche. It is he who guides the evolution of the menu according to the seasons. Our cuisine is constantly evolving, very instinctive, generous, authentic.

Greg Marchand (Chef)

Let’s pull up a chair at Frenchie, the café synonymous with a seamless blend of comfort and finesse. The narrow street where Frenchie opens its doors is steeped in history, previously home to the city's vibrant textile industry. Now, it breathes a new life, imbued with the stylish and hip essence Marchand's establishments have woven into the area.

Upon entering, you're greeted with an authentic warmth that's all too rare. Small in size yet vast in character, Frenchie offers an intimate vantage point to the rhythmic ballet of the kitchen. It's here that the art of culinary transparency meets the diner's curious eye, where each dish is not just served but presented, inviting patrons to savor the story behind every bite.

Yet, for all its culinary prowess, Frenchie remains humble, with an atmosphere that invites conversation and a service that, while occasionally showing its human side, aims to please with politeness and a readiness to enhance your meal. This honest, approachable vibe aligns so well with our vision for Café Culture—a place where food is not just eaten but experienced, where every visit weaves a new thread into the tapestry of Parisian life.

HIDDEN GEMS
A Hidden Scientific Treasure: The Meteorological Observatory in Parc Montsouris

Tucked away in the serene landscape of Parc Montsouris lies a hidden gem often overlooked by the casual visitor: the Parc Montsouris Meteorological Observatory. This scientific haven, steeped in historical significance, offers a unique glimpse into the world of meteorology and climatology in one of Paris's most picturesque parks.

Established in the late 19th century, the observatory is a testament to France's long-standing commitment to the scientific study of weather and climate. Its presence in Parc Montsouris, an English-style garden designed by Napoleon III and Baron Haussmann, adds a layer of intellectual intrigue to the park's already rich history.

Visitors to the observatory can indulge in the blend of science and nature. The observatory's work, crucial in contributing to France's meteorological network, involves meticulous tracking and analysis of weather patterns, offering insights into the broader implications of climate change.

The architecture of the observatory itself is a point of interest. While the facility is not always open to the public, its exterior presents a charming example of late 19th-century design, seamlessly integrated into the park's landscape. The observatory's subtle elegance complements the surrounding greenery, ponds, and winding paths of Parc Montsouris, making it a perfect spot for a peaceful stroll or a reflective pause.

Beyond its scientific role, the observatory has been a silent witness to historical events, including the Paris Commune of 1871. Its resilience and continuity serve as a metaphor for the city's enduring spirit of inquiry and innovation.

ART & LITERATURE
Dancing Waters and Whimsical Sculptures: The Story of Stravinsky Fountain

Stravinsky Fountain

Next to the architectural wonder of the Centre Pompidou in Paris lies a fountain that is much more than a mere water feature. The Stravinsky Fountain, a kaleidoscope of colors and forms, dances to the rhythm of its own splashes and sprays, celebrating the legacy of the renowned composer Igor Stravinsky. This whimsical ensemble of sculptures was born from the creative minds of Jean Tinguely and Niki de Saint Phalle in 1983, marking a vibrant spot of joy and artistic expression in the heart of Paris.

As one approaches the Stravinsky Fountain, they are greeted by sixteen dynamic sculptures, each uniquely interpreting themes from Stravinsky's rich musical portfolio. From the fiery exuberance of "The Firebird" to the playful charm of "Ragtime," the sculptures come alive, not just visually but also through their interaction with water. Each piece, crafted with care and imagination, is a testament to the enduring power of music and art to stir the soul.

The fountain's creation was a part of a broader initiative by the City of Paris, aiming to rejuvenate and transform public spaces with contemporary art. Located on Place Stravinsky, the fountain's site was chosen for its cultural significance, standing as a bridge between the historical richness of Les Halles and the modern vibrancy of the Centre Pompidou.

One of the most intriguing aspects of the Stravinsky Fountain is its design, a mindful blend of form and function. Underneath its shallow waters lie the rooms and offices of IRCAM, necessitating a design that was as lightweight as it was captivating. The sculptures, therefore, are made from materials like fiber-reinforced plastic and steel, ensuring minimal impact on the structures below while maximizing their visual impact.

One of my favorite murals in Paris stands as a backdrop to the Stravinsky Fountain.

The collaboration between Tinguely and Saint Phalle is a narrative of artistic harmony. Initially a solo project for Tinguely, it evolved to include Saint Phalle's colorful works, balancing Tinguely's mechanical sculptures with vibrant vivacity. This integration of styles resulted in a fountain that is not just a sight to behold but a conversation between different artistic philosophies.

Since its inauguration, the Stravinsky Fountain has been a source of delight for both Parisians and visitors alike. It stands as a reminder of how public art can transform spaces into hubs of cultural engagement. The playful splashes of water and the dynamic sculptures invite passersby to pause and immerse themselves in a world where art, music, and urban life converge in a beautiful symphony.

A PEEK INTO HISTORY
Echoes of Revolution: Tracing the Paris Commune of 1871 in Modern Paris

Barricades at Place Blanche - Illustration by Jean-Baptiste Francois

In the spring of 1871, Paris witnessed a unique and tumultuous chapter in its history – the Paris Commune. For a brief 72 days, the city became the stage for a radical socialist and revolutionary government. This period, though short-lived, left indelible marks on Paris, both in its urban landscape and in the collective memory of French society. Today, visitors can explore various sites in Paris that echo the stories of the Commune, offering a fascinating peek into this revolutionary episode.

The Paris Commune was primarily a response to the hardships suffered by the Parisian population during the Franco-Prussian War and the subsequent siege of Paris. It was a time of radical social and political experimentation, as the Communards sought to create a government based on democratic and socialist principles.

Place de la Bastille

One of the key locations associated with the Paris Commune is the Place de la Bastille. Today known for the July Column, this historic square was a significant site for the Communards, symbolizing the fight for liberty and resistance. Visitors can ponder the revolutionary fervor that once permeated this area, imagining the passionate speeches and gatherings that took place here.

Another significant site is the Père Lachaise Cemetery. It is here that the final, brutal suppression of the Commune, known as "La Semaine Sanglante" (The Bloody Week), culminated. The Communards made their last stand in this cemetery, and today, the Mur des Fédérés (Wall of the Federates) stands as a poignant memorial where visitors can pay their respects. Each year, people gather here to commemorate the legacy of the Commune and the ideals it stood for.

June 24, 1871 - Last battles at Père-Lachaise

The 19th arrondissement's Parc des Buttes-Chaumont also holds connections to the Commune. During this period, the park became a strategic location. Visitors can stroll through this picturesque park, reflecting on its past significance and enjoying its current beauty.

The Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) is another site deeply linked to the Commune. It was the epicenter of political power and decision-making during the uprising. Although the original building was burned down during the Commune, the reconstructed Hôtel de Ville stands as a symbol of the resilience of the city and its people.

The burned ruins of the Hotel de Ville, Paris, 1871.

Lastly, the Place Vendôme is worth visiting for its historical significance. During the Commune, the famous Vendôme Column, which celebrated the military victories of Napoleon, was torn down by the Communards in an act of defiance against imperialism and war. Today's column is a reconstruction, symbolizing the complexities of French history and memory.

The Paris Commune of 1871 was a watershed moment in Parisian and French history. While it ended in tragedy, its ideals and memory inspire and provoke thought. One can connect with this pivotal historical moment by visiting these sites and gaining insights into the struggles and aspirations that shaped modern Paris.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
"Les Etoiles" by Melody Gardot (live)

In the enchanting world of contemporary jazz, few songs capture the essence of romance and introspection as beautifully as Melody Gardot's "Les Étoiles.” This week, we invite you to experience a mesmerizing live performance of this piece, a rendition that truly showcases Gardot's exceptional talent and emotional depth.

Melody Gardot, an American musician and singer-songwriter, is known for her expressive vocal style and eclectic mix of jazz, blues, and soul. Her journey as a musician, overcoming a life-changing accident to find her voice, adds depth and resilience to her music.

"Les Étoiles," French for "The Stars," is a song that gently weaves a tale of love and the mysteries of the night sky. With its sultry and soulful tone, Gardot's voice glides over a minimalist arrangement, creating an intimate and expansive atmosphere. The song's beauty lies in its simplicity and the raw emotion that Gardot brings to her performance.

Thank you for spending time with us through this newsletter. We hope it brings a little ‘joie de vivre’ to your day. As you head into the weekend, may it be filled with moments that uplift and inspire you. If you've enjoyed reading, please forward this newsletter to anyone you think would appreciate it, too. The sign-up form is below.

Wishing you a wonderful weekend full of joie de vivre!

James & Laura

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