🇫🇷 💌 The Paris Love Letter

Brasserie Culture, Insider Tips & A Literary Tour of The Left Bank

"Café De Temple, Paris" - Photograph by James Christopher Knight

In this issue of The Paris Love Letter

  • Featured Café: Grande Brasserie

  • Paris Culture: Art Nouveau and the Parisian Brasserie: A Symphony of Art and Life

  • Travel Tip of the Week: Master the Art of Brasserie Etiquette

  • A Peek into History: Green Oases Amidst Parisian Bustle

  • Fun and Unusual Things to Do in Paris: Literary Tour of the Left Bank

  • Featured French Song of The Week: Je t'aime moi non plus

  • Reader Questions: Steve and Allison ask - What's the best way to get into Paris from CDG?

Featured Café: Grande Brasserie

After an incredibly spirited evening out in Paris with a dear friend who's as Parisian as they come, we stumbled into this Brasserie. I remember being impressed with the traditional decor, friendly staff, and quality food. My Parisian friend, an amateur food critic, said the espresso was "off" that night, but everything else was great.

Enter Grand Brasserie:

Tucked away near Bastille, you'll stumble upon a gem that has stood the test of time: La Grande Brasserie. This is no ordinary eatery. It's a vibrant slice of French history, a testament to the enduring allure of the brasserie tradition.

Once upon a time, brasseries were humble joints, serving simple fare and frothy beers. Today, they've evolved into something more grandiose, as much a part of France's cultural fabric as the coveted triad of wine, cheese, and baguettes.

La Grande Brasserie has been basking in this tradition since the Roaring Twenties. Its doors have welcomed an intriguing ensemble of patrons over the years, from local Parisians to globe-trotting adventurers and even a few noteworthy personalities.

Walking into La Grande Brasserie is like stepping into a warm embrace. It's a place where classic decor meets hearty cuisine, creating an atmosphere that's both inviting and steeped in authenticity. Here, you don't just come for a meal; you come for an experience that's undeniably, unmistakably Parisian.

So, whether you're a local or a wanderer from a distant shore, make your way to La Grande Brasserie. It's more than just a destination for mouthwatering French cuisine—it's a love letter to the past, a nod to the enduring charm of the Parisian brasserie.

"In a café, you can stay for hours with a glass of wine." - George Orwell

Paris Culture: Art Nouveau and the Parisian Brasserie: A Symphony of Art and Life

In the heart of Paris, life unfolds not just in parks, streets, or homes but in places where art and the everyday seamlessly merge. One such place is the Parisian brasserie, a living testament to the Art Nouveau movement's philosophy of integrating beauty into daily life.

When you stroll into an Art Nouveau brasserie like Brasserie Julien or Le Train Bleu, you're stepping into a time capsule. You're greeted by stained glass ceilings, hand-painted mirrors, and ornate woodwork. It's a sensory experience, an invitation to appreciate beauty as you sip your café au lait or savor your escargots.

Yet, the spirit of Art Nouveau isn't confined to these grand, century-old establishments. It thrives even today in modern brasseries that have imbibed the essence of this artistic movement. Take La Grande Brasserie in the vibrant 10th arrondissement, for instance. It might not flaunt the ornate aesthetic of the Art Nouveau style, but it embodies the same commitment to creating an immersive, beautiful experience.

So, the next time you find yourself in a Parisian brasserie, pause for a moment. Whether you're in a historic establishment or a contemporary one like La Grande Brasserie, soak in the surroundings. You're not just in a café; you're within a living, breathing work of art that celebrates the Parisian spirit.

This melding of art, culture, and gastronomy is quintessentially Parisian. It's a testament to a city that values the aesthetic experience as much as the culinary one. So, raise a glass to Paris, art, and to life itself. Here's to the joy of the Parisian brasserie, where art and life beautifully intertwine.

Travel Tip of the Week: Master the Art of Brasserie Etiquette

Visiting a brasserie is an essential Parisian experience, but it's not just about what you eat or drink—it's also about how you do it. Here's a quick tip to help you blend in with the locals and enjoy your brasserie visit to the fullest.

Savor the Moment: In a Parisian brasserie, dining is not a race—it's a leisurely activity. Don't rush your meal. Take your time to savor every bite, every sip. It's perfectly acceptable (and even expected) to linger over your food and drink. Relax, read a book, or watch the world go by. Remember, in Paris, dining is not just about nourishment—it's an art form.

And here's a bonus tip: Don't hesitate to strike up a conversation with the person at the next table. Parisians might seem reserved, but they often enjoy a good chat. Discussing the food, the weather or the latest book you're reading could lead to an enriching exchange. Who knows, you might just make a new friend!

A Peek into History: Green Oases Amidst Parisian Bustle

Paris isn't just about the brasseries, the baguettes, and the bohemian lifestyle. There's a softer, greener side to this city of stone and light. The parks and gardens of Paris are as much a part of its heartbeat as its cafés and cobblestones.

Back in the day, these green havens were exclusive playgrounds for the royal and the noble. Picture Catherine de' Medici strolling around the Tuileries Garden, plotting her next political move amongst the meticulously manicured flower beds.

But as Paris swelled and burst at its seams, the powers-that-be realized that its citizens needed room to breathe. Cue Napoleon III and his sidekick, Baron Haussmann. These guys didn't just pull Paris into the modern age; they stitched the city with threads of green.

They dreamed up sprawling parks like the Bois de Boulogne and Bois de Vincennes, transforming the cityscape. These weren't just patches of grass to laze on; they were social hubs, cultural petri dishes, and slices of countryside in the urban jungle.

Next time you're in Paris, take a detour from the well-trodden tourist trails. Find a park bench, pull out that baguette, and watch the world go by. And as you do, remember that you're soaking up more than just the sun. You're living a chapter of Paris's ever-evolving story.

Fun and Unusual Things to Do in Paris: Literary Tour of the Left Bank

The Left Bank of Paris, particularly the Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Latin Quarter, has long been a haven for writers and intellectuals. Why not trace the footsteps of literary giants like Hemingway, Fitzgerald, and Sartre with a self-guided tour?

Begin at the famous Shakespeare and Company bookstore, which has been a meeting place for English-speaking writers since the 1920s. Browse the shelves for a new book to enjoy at one of the nearby cafes.

Then, stroll to the nearby Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots, the preferred hangouts of the Existentialist movement’s leading figures, Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir. As you sip a coffee, imagine the intense philosophical discussions that once took place at these very tables.

Next, venture to the Luxemburg Gardens and find the Medici Fountain. It's said that Hemingway loved to sit and write near this tranquil spot.

Finally, end your tour at the Panthéon, where some of France's most significant literary figures, including Victor Hugo, Emile Zola, and Voltaire, are interred.

Not only will this tour immerse you in the rich literary history of Paris, but it's also a great way to explore some of the city's most charming neighborhoods.

Reader Questions: Steve and Allison ask - What's the best way to get into Paris from CDG?

When visiting Laura before we were married, I traveled alone to Paris from Los Angeles and almost always took the train from Charles de Gaulle Airport into the city (RER). I liked the adventure, and I enjoyed being among the locals. The cost is about €12 per person.

The train is fine. It'll get you there safely, but if you have luggage, there's the added complication of changing trains in Paris from the RER to a local line, taking the stairs, and hiking your bags to your hotel. And navigating the train can be confusing for first-timers.

These days, I prefer to take taxis, especially when there is more than one person because the cost of a taxi from CDG is a flat rate of about €55. As you multiply the cost of individual train tickets, a family of four will pay almost as much for the train as a taxi.

Pro Tip: Only take official taxis from the airport. Every time I've waited in the taxi line, I see a few guys pretending to be taxi drivers, enticing people in the back of the line to ride with them. As far as I know, there is no physical danger in doing this, but from what I hear, you'll likely pay more. Any time you take a taxi, make sure there is a working meter.

Remember - There's a flat rate into Paris from CDG, and you can trust the official taxi stand at the airport. Wait in line, and you'll be on your way soon.

Featured French Song of The Week

Serge Gainsbourg & Jane Birkin - Je t'aime... moi non plus/Original videoclip (Fontana 1969)

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