In This Issue of The Paris Love Letter

• Café Culture: La Fontaine de Belleville

• Hidden Gems: Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen

• Travel Tips: Speak Like a Parisian – Basic French Phrases for Travelers

• Art & Literature: The Soothing Palette of Albert Marquet's Paris

• A Peek into History: The Lost River - La Bièvre of Paris

• Fun and Unusual Stuff: Les Frigos - From Cold Storage to Creative Hotspot

• Featured French Song: Charles Aznavour - La bohème (a classic)

Found in Paris - Fun & Useful Stuff From The Web

➡️ Txango Tours - Visit Paris and Versailles on a sidecar motorcycle. NOTE: I have not taken this tour, but I'm curious. I may do so in the future, but an American tourist I met last week recommended touring Paris by sidecar with this company. I'm intrigued.

➡️ Cityscoot - For the more adventurous, this is a great way to get around Paris. Cityscoot has thousands of mopeds for rent by the minute all over Paris. This might be for you if you're willing to ride a motorbike on the street. I'll admit I was nervous the first time I tried, but I got used to it quite quickly. More than any city I've lived in, Paris drivers are especially sensitive to bike and pedestrian traffic.

Café Culture: La Fontaine de Belleville

La Fontaine de Bellville

There's something magical about the Parisian cafés, where every sip of coffee feels like a deep dive into history. La Fontaine de Belleville is one such gem that marries the nostalgia with the contemporary. Standing proudly in the 10th arrondissement, this café-roastery offers more than just a caffeine kick.

The first thing that captivates you upon entering is the stunning Belle Époque decor, which transports you back to an era when life seemed simpler and conversations deeper. Golden chandeliers, wooden panels, mosaic floors, and the sounds of soft Edith Piaf tunes in the background, all converge to craft an atmosphere that's hard to find in modern establishments.

But it's not just about aesthetics. La Fontaine de Belleville takes its coffee very seriously. Their beans are sourced from various regions around the globe, each promising a unique flavor profile. From the robust Colombian to the smooth Ethiopian blend, there's a brew for every palate. And while their espresso shots are a talk of the town, do not miss out on their creamy cappuccinos and the tantalizing cold brews.

Of course, for those who aren't coffee enthusiasts, the café offers a range of teas and fresh pastries, making it an ideal spot for just about anyone.

And while the café is an ode to the past, their approach to coffee is future-forward. As a modern roastery, they've adopted sustainable practices, ensuring that their delightful brews are not just good for the soul, but also for our planet.

Beyond the allure of their brewed wonders, La Fontaine de Belleville comes alive in a different rhythm come evenings. The café reverberates with the soulful tunes of live jazz performances. The sounds of trumpets, double basses, and sultry vocals fill the space, echoing the city's profound love for jazz that dates back to the Roaring Twenties. Patrons can immerse themselves in this auditory delight, sipping on their favorite brews or wines, making it a holistic sensory experience. It’s not just a place to savor coffee but also to appreciate art, culture, and the timeless spirit of Paris. So, whether you're a jazz aficionado or simply looking to spice up your evening, these live sessions at La Fontaine are the perfect antidote to a busy day.

In essence, La Fontaine de Belleville encapsulates what Paris's café culture is all about: a place where time stands still, stories flow freely, and every cup tells a tale. If you're in Paris or planning a trip, make sure this café is on your list. It's a Parisian experience you wouldn't want to miss.

Hidden Gems: Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen

Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen

Nestled in the outskirts of Paris lies the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, commonly known as the Saint-Ouen Flea Market. Stepping into this sprawling marketplace, you're immediately transported to a veritable wonderland of antiques, vintage gems, and distinctive curiosities. With the honor of being the world's largest antique market, its sheer scale and variety are nothing short of breathtaking.

The market comprises over a dozen individual sub-markets, each exuding its unique character and specialty. Wander the aisles of the prestigious Marché Paul Bert Serpette, and you're met with refined antiques and luxurious finds. Meanwhile, the bohemian allure of Marché Malik beckons artistic souls with its eclectic mix of items and vibrant atmosphere.

But beyond the allure of tangible items, the flea market stands as a living testament to Parisian history and culture. Each stall tells a story, whether it's through rare vintage French postcards, meticulously crafted Art Deco furniture, or the nostalgic grooves of old vinyl records. Engaging with the vendors offers a lesson in haggling, an age-old tradition, while the quaint cafes scattered throughout the marketplace invite you to sit, observe, and absorb the market's lively ambiance.

The Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen is more than just a shopping destination; it's an experience. Every corner promises the possibility of a hidden treasure or a forgotten tale from yesteryears. So, the next time you're in Paris, dedicate a day to exploring this historical gem - you never know what serendipitous finds await!

Travel Tips: Speak Like a Parisian – Basic French Phrases for Travelers

Stepping onto the streets of Paris, one is enveloped in a rich tapestry of history, art, and life. But, to truly immerse yourself in the Parisian experience, embracing a smattering of the French language is vital. Not only is it a nod to the deep-seated pride the French have in their language, but it's also a delightful way to enrich your experience.

While many Parisians are fluent in English, especially those in the service sector, their appreciation is undeniable when you attempt even a smidgen of French. It's not just about communication—it's about cultural connection.

A Few Essential Phrases to Master:

• Bonjour (bohn-zhoor): Good morning/Good day.

• Bonsoir (bohn-swahr): Good evening.

• Merci (mehr-see): Thank you.

• Excusez-moi (ex-kew-zay mwah): Excuse me.

• Oui (wee): Yes.

• Non (noh): No.

• S'il vous plaît (seel voo pleh): Please.

• L'addition, s'il vous plaît (la-dee-syon seel voo pleh): The bill/check, please.

• Où est...? (oo eh...?): Where is...?

• Combien? (kohm-byen?): How much?

A Humorous Ice-Breaker: I've often employed a cheeky phrase to warm up my interactions, and it never fails to elicit a chuckle. "Désolé, je parle français comme une vache américaine. Parlez-vous anglais?" which translates to "Sorry, I speak French like an American cow. Do you speak English?" It's an endearing way to acknowledge your linguistic limitations while breaking the ice.

Practice Makes Perfect: Before setting foot on Parisian soil, take a few moments daily to practice these phrases. Perfect pronunciation isn't the goal—making an effort is.

So, on your next journey to Paris, dive headfirst into these linguistic adventures and create bonds that transcend language barriers. À bientôt in Paris, and may your conversations be as delightful as the city itself!

Art & Literature: The Soothing Palette of Albert Marquet's Paris

The vibrant and dynamic world of post-impressionist art often conjures images of Van Gogh's swirling starry nights or Cézanne's bold, deconstructed landscapes. Yet, nestled within this genre lies the serene artistry of Albert Marquet. His works, rather than assaulting the senses with raw emotion or bold experimentation, exude a sense of peace, a hushed admiration for his muse - Paris.

quet had an enduring relationship with the Seine. With its ever-changing reflections and moods, the river became a protagonist in many of his works. While the bustling streets of Montmartre or the lively markets of Le Marais often drew the attention of his contemporaries, Marquet was content to focus on the tranquil banks of the Seine, capturing it in varying lights, weather, and seasons. The Seine, under Marquet's brush, transformed from a mere water body to a living, breathing entity - reflective, somber, jubilant, and sometimes mysterious.

e can't help but be drawn to the sheer simplicity of his compositions. His portrayal of Paris wasn't marked by grand monuments or lively cabarets but by quiet mornings, misty afternoons, and the silhouettes of trees and distant spires reflected in the calm waters. His palette, often dominated by soft blues, gentle grays, and muted earthy tones, added a dreamy quality to his works, making the viewer feel as though they're peering into a calm, serene world, slightly detached from the bustling reality of the city.

In today's fast-paced world, Marquet's paintings are a gentle reminder of the beauty in stillness and the art of observation. They beckon us to pause, observe, and find beauty in the calm and ordinary moments. For those lucky enough to visit Paris, a walk along the Seine might evoke memories of Marquet's canvas - where the river isn't just a river, but a mirror to the city's soul.

A Peek into History: The Lost River - La Bièvre of Paris

he heart of Paris, beneath the bustling streets and iconic landmarks, flows a river lost to time - La Bièvre unlike the Seine, which proudly meanders through the City of Light, La Bièvre now runs silent and concealed, a hidden testament to a bygone era.

Histolly, La Bièvre played a crucial role in shaping the city's industrial landscape. Originating in the Yvette valley and flowing into the Seine near the Gare d'Austerlitz, this river once coursed visibly through the Left Bank of Paris. Its waters were not the pristine, postcard-perfect scenes we associate with Parisian rivers today. Instead, La Bièvre was a hardworking waterway, its banks lined with tanneries, dye workshops, and mills. The industries it supported were vital for Paris's economic growth, and for centuries, the river was the lifeblood for many Parisians who depended on these trades.

wever, thry industries that thrived alongside La Bièvre also led to its downfall. As Paris grew and industrialized, the river became heavily polluted. Its waters turned murky with waste from the tanneries and dye shops, and over time, it gained notoriety for its foul smell and unsanitary conditions. By the late 19th century, Baron Haussmann's grand renovation plans for Paris included addressing the "Bièvre problem." The solution? Channeling the river underground.

Today, La Bièvre exists mostly as a subterranean stream, flowing silently beneath Paris's streets. While it no longer visibly intersects with daily Parisian life, its legacy remains. The industries it once fueled have left an indelible mark on the city's history, shaping neighborhoods and influencing Paris's evolution as a global metropolis.

Foose with en interest in urban exploration, traces of La Bièvre can still be found. Old street names, historical markers, and even occasional glimpses of the river in certain underground tours offer a peek into its storied past. A journey in search of La Bièvre is not just about discovering a hidden river; it's about uncovering layers of Parisian history, a testament to the city's ability to evolve while preserving whispers of its past.

Fun and Unusual Stuff: Les Frigos - From Cold Storage to Creative Hotspot

Les Frigos

stled in the evvolving 13th arrondissement lies an unlikely bastion of artistic creativity: Les Frigos. What was once a bustling refrigerated railway depot, crucial for transporting and storing perishable goods, has undergone a stunning transformation, morphing into a vibrant heart of Parisian contemporary art.

g iLes Frigs like entering a world where history mingles with avant-garde innovation. The building's industrial past is still palpable, with its raw, rugged exteriors, echoing remnants of its refrigerated heyday. But beyond these cold walls, the warmth of creativity unfurls. The echoing clangs of trains and machinery have been replaced with the gentle hum of artistry, the murmurs of collaboration, and the occasional reverie of a lost artist deep in thought.

Inside, a labyrinth of corridors opens up to individual studios – each a universe of its own. Painters, sculptors, photographers, and other artists have claimed these spaces, making them sanctuaries of creativity. The air is thick with inspiration, from the scent of fresh paint to the muffled sounds of a sculptor chiseling away.

Bus Frigos isn’tt ace for artists to work; it’s a living, breathing community. The camaraderie among the artists is evident, creating a supportive and nurturing environment where ideas are exchanged, collaborations are forged, and artistic visions are realized. Over the years, it's also become a focal point for cultural events, exhibitions, and open studio days where the public gets a rare glimpse behind the curtain, meeting artists and witnessing the creative process firsthand.

For anyone looking to explore a less-trodden path in Paris, Les Frigos offers a unique juxtaposition of the city's industrial heritage and its thriving artistic soul. A visit here serves as a potent reminder of Paris's enduring spirit of reinvention, proving that even the coldest of spaces can be warmed by the fires of creativity.

Featured French Song

Charles Aznavour - La bohème