In This Issue of The Paris Love Letter

• Café Culture: Mosquée de Paris Café

• Hidden Gems: Paris' Sewer Museum (Musée des Égouts de Paris)

• Travel Tips: Venturing Beyond the Seine for Authentic Dining Experiences

• Art & Literature: The Timeless Eye of Frank Horvat

• A Peek into History: The Architectural Journey of Paris

• Fun and Unusual Stuff: Hidden Squares of Paris - Square des Arènes de Lutèce and Square Capitan

• Reader Questions: Wheelchair Accessibility in Paris – A Guide for Easier Navigation in the City of Light

• Featured French Song: ZAZ - Demain c’est toi (vidéo studio)

Found in Paris - Fun & Useful Stuff From The Web

➡️ Lost in Cheeseland - I listen to Lindsey's Podcast, "The New Paris," regularly. I love her deep-dive episodes, articles, and book by the same title as the podcast (I have the audio version).

From her website: Lindsey is a travel and culture writer based in Paris and the author of the bestseller “The New Paris” and the newly-released “The New Parisienne”.

➡️ Le Peloton - This is a wonderful little coffee spot and a resource for bike tours and bike rentals. I've recently come in contact with a few of their tour guides, who are all passionate about Paris.

Café Culture: Mosquée de Paris Café

Nestled in the heart of the Latin Quarter, mere steps away from the botanical oasis of Jardin des Plantes, sits a hidden gem that promises to enchant the senses - the Mosquée de Paris Café. Transporting you into a world reminiscent of a Moroccan riad, this cafe instantly calms the city hustle and bustle with its tranquil courtyard, tiled mosaics, and the murmur of the trickling water feature.

Upon entering, the aromatic allure of freshly brewed coffee and mint tea beckons. Whether you're a seasoned coffee aficionado or just someone seeking a caffeine fix, their coffee is commendable, offering a rich, robust flavor that's guaranteed to awaken your senses.

And while I haven't had the opportunity to try their savory dishes, the sweet offerings are a highlight not to be overlooked. Their selection of desserts, baked with traditional Middle Eastern recipes, provides a delightful endnote to the aromatic symphony of their beverages. Whether you choose the flaky, honey-drizzled pastries or the delicately sweet almond cookies, they perfectly complement the coffee or their refreshing mint tea.

The Mosquée de Paris Café serves more than just beverages and treats, it offers an immersive experience - a Parisian sanctuary infused with a distinct Moroccan spirit. As the days grow colder, escape to this café for a momentary retreat into warmth, comfort, and sublime flavor.

Hidden Gems: Paris' Sewer Museum (Musée des Égouts de Paris)

This month's hidden gem is a little out of the ordinary, but utterly fascinating. Paris is known for its famous landmarks and museums, but did you know there's an entire museum dedicated to the city's sewer system? That's right, the Musée des Égouts de Paris, or Paris Sewer Museum, offers an intriguing exploration of Paris from underneath!

Tucked beneath the city streets, this museum provides a unique and unsung perspective of the city's complex infrastructure. Here, you can walk through the network of tunnels, crossing over walkways above the flowing sewage, all the while learning about the evolution of the city's waste and water management.

One may question the appeal of such a place, but this museum offers a testament to Parisian history and engineering, showing a different, less glamorous but nonetheless vital, side of the city. It's a great visit for those interested in urban development, engineering, and, well, the hidden workings of a metropolis.

So, if you're in the mood for a quirky adventure and a break from the typical tourist routes, the Paris Sewer Museum is worth a visit. Just be prepared for a sensory experience that includes, yes, the smell. You've been warned!

And remember, Paris is full of surprises, both above and below ground, so don't shy away from exploring its offbeat and unique offerings.

Travel Tips: Venturing Beyond the Seine for Authentic Dining Experiences

When in Paris, it can be tempting to stay near the Seine and dine at the obvious tourist spots. These areas are filled with charm and convenience, but they are not always the best choice for a memorable culinary experience. As locals, we've learned to venture beyond these crowded areas in search of more authentic Parisian dining.

The neighborhoods away from the river are teeming with hidden gems that often go unnoticed by tourists. You'll find charming bistros, quaint cafés, and delectable bakeries that offer an authentic taste of French cuisine at a more reasonable price point.

To help you unearth these culinary treasures, we highly recommend widening your search. Consider investing in a reliable Paris guide, such as Jay Swanson's 'Paris in My Pocket,' known for its insightful local recommendations. You could also broaden your online search terms – instead of typing "best restaurant near the Eiffel Tower," try "best bistro in the 11th arrondissement," for example.

Of course, we're always here to guide you on your gastronomic journey through Paris. Our newsletter and blog are brimming with tried-and-tested recommendations that promise to enrich your palate and redefine your Parisian dining experience. Remember, the real essence of Paris lies in the unexpected, away from the bustling riverbanks and iconic landmarks. So go on, venture off the beaten path, and treat yourself to an authentic slice of Paris.

Art & Literature: The Timeless Eye of Frank Horvat

This month, I had the privilege of attending an exhibition at Jeu de Paume dedicated to the remarkable work of the late Frank Horvat. An accomplished 20th-century photographer, Horvat made Paris his home and his muse, and his influence on the photography world is immeasurable.

Jeu de Paume - Frank Horvat Exposition

Born in Italy, Horvat made Paris his home for the majority of his life. He dabbled in a multitude of genres, from fashion to street photography, always bringing a unique perspective that set his work apart. He was a pioneer, defying the conventions of his time by taking fashion photography out of the studio and into the streets, infusing his work with an authentic, raw quality that continues to resonate today.

Horvat's photographs of Paris during the 1950s and 60s are a window into a bygone era, filled with the charm, elegance, and everyday life of the city. His ability to capture the spirit of a moment, the essence of a character, is unparalleled.

The exhibition at Jeu de Paume is a journey through Horvat's career and his vision of Paris. It offers viewers a chance to see the city through his lens: a city full of life, movement, and stories waiting to be told. Even in still images, Horvat's Paris is alive, pulsating with the energy of the people and the rhythm of the city.

For those of you in Paris or planning a visit soon, I highly recommend a visit to Jeu de Paume to immerse yourself in Horvat's work. His photographs are more than just images; they are narratives, fragments of history, and, above all, a testament to the timeless beauty of Paris. Whether you're a photography enthusiast, an art lover, or simply fond of Paris, Frank Horvat's work is a fascinating exploration of the city's spirit.

A Peek into History: The Architectural Journey of Paris

Embark with us on a voyage through time, exploring the architectural evolution of Paris, from the ancient Roman settlement of Lutetia to the grand boulevards designed by Baron Haussmann.

The first noteworthy step on our journey is the remnants of Lutetia, the predecessor of Paris. Once a thriving Roman city, Lutetia's vestiges can still be found in the city's landscape, such as the Arènes de Lutèce, a Roman amphitheater tucked away in the Latin Quarter. Its ancient stones whisper tales of a city that once was, a city that laid the foundation for the Paris we know today.

Fast forward to the Middle Ages, the Notre-Dame Cathedral and the Sainte-Chapelle rise in Gothic splendor. These masterpieces demonstrate the architectural prowess of the era and provide insights into the religious significance of the time.

As we step into the 17th century, the splendor of the Baroque era shines through places like Place des Vosges, with its symmetrical facades and red-brick elegance. Similarly, the grandeur of the Louvre Palace reflects the prestige of the monarchy in its architectural opulence.

The next significant phase in Paris's architectural evolution is introduced by Baron Haussmann in the 19th century. Appointed by Napoleon III, Haussmann drastically transformed Paris into a city of wide boulevards, uniform stone buildings, and expansive parks. His vision shaped the Paris we recognize today, the city tunning perspectives and charming facades.

Each era in Paris's architectural evolution contributed a unique layer to its cityscape, creating an enchanting blend of old and new, traditional and innovative. As you wander its streets, remember that beneath the beauty of Paris lies centuries of history, each brick a testament to its timeless allure.

Fun and Unusual Stuff: Hidden Squares of Paris - Square drènes de Lutèce and Square Capitan

Have you ever wondered what it's like to find a hidden sanctuary amidst the bustling cityscape of Paris? Let's take a detour into two of the city's best-kept secrets: the Square deènes de Lutèce and Square Capitan.

The Square des Arènes de Lutèce is a historical gem, hiding in plain sight in the heart of the Latin Quarter. It's actually one of the most ancient landmarks in Paris, built around the 1st century AD. Today, it's a tranquil park encircling the remains of a Roman amphitheater. As you stroll along the pathways, it's easy to imagine the gladiatorial contests that once drew crowds here. Whether you're a history buff, a lover of quiet corners, or simply curious, this square offers a peaceful retreat fthe bustling city streets.

On the other hand, Square Capitan, named after the French army officer and historian Louis Léon César Faidherbe, is a pocket-sized oasis in the 5th arrondissement. With its elegantly manicured garden and charming gazebo, it's a lovely place to escape the hustle and bustle. Nestled between Haussmann-style buildings, this verdant hideaway feels worlds away from the city's high-energy rhythm. Whether you’re seeking a quiet place to read, a serene spot for a picnic, or a scenic route on your walk, Square Capitan is a delightful detour.

Each of these squares offers a unique snapshot of Paris's past and present, a testament to the city's ability to weave history and modernity together. So, next time you're out and about, why not wander off the beaten path and discover the hidden charms of the City of Light?

Join me as we explore two of Paris' hidden gems in this short but insightful walking tour video - Square des Arènes de Lutèce and Square Capitan.

Reader Questions: Wheelchair Accessibility in Paris – A Guide for Easier Navign in the City of Light

Paris of People With Disabilities

This week, we address a topic that's crucial yet often overlooked: accessibility in Paris. For readers who use wheelchairs or have mobility concerns, exploring this ancient city might seem daunting. However, the city is making strides to become more accessible for everyone.

While we can't speak directly to the wheelchair experience, we do regularly navigate Paris with our young son in his stroller. We've found that utilizing the city's bus system is a surprisingly seamless way to get around, often favoring it over the metro. The buses have dedicated spaces for strollers and wheelchairs, making travel significantly more convenient. We acknowledge that the stroller experience is not the same as a wheelchair one, but we hopat this insight helps.

Paras been investing in improving accessibility for all its visitors and residents. From wheelchair-friendly public transportation to accessible tourist attractions, Paris is working on its commitment to being an inclusive city. The Paris Tourist Office provides a handy guide titled "Paris for people with disabilities," which offers detailed information on the accessibility of various establishments and attractions.

Museums such as the Louvre and Orsay have made efforts to become more wheelchair-friendly, providing lifts and ramps for easy access. Many of the city's famous gardens, like the Tuileries and Luxembourg Gardens, have wheelchair-accessible paths.

As for public transportation, many of the buses are equipped with lowering floors and dedicated spaces for wheelchairs. Some metro stations are also accessible, although it's advisable to check the RATP's interactive map for specific details.

RATP's Interactive Map

It's true that accessibility can still be a challenge in certain parts of the city, especially in older, hilly neighborhoods like Montmartre. However, with careful planning and the right resources, Paris can be enjoyed by everyone.

Don't let mobility issues deter you from experiencing the magic of Paris! There's always a way to explore and enjoy the city, no matter your circumstances. If you have specific questions about accessibility, don't hesitate to reach out. We're here to help make your Paris experience unforgettable.

Featured French Song

ZAZ - Demain c’est toi (vidéo studio)