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🇫🇷 💌 The Paris Love Letter
Indiana Café + Jardin des Plantes + Paris in the Shoulder Seasons + Gertrude Stein + French Croissants + Rue des Martyrs

©️2023 James Christopher Knight
In This Issue of The Paris Love Letter:
Café Culture: The Indiana Café Experiment
Hidden Gems: The Enchanted Oasis of Jardin des Plantes
Travel Tips: Discovering Paris in the Shoulder Seasons
Art & Literature: Gertrude Stein, a Literary Legend in Paris
A Peek into History: The Story of the French Croissant
Fun and Unusual Stuff: The Eclectic Charm of Rue des Martyrs
Featured French Song: Johnny Hallyday - Je te promets
Found in Paris - Fun & Useful Stuff From The Web
➡️ Jardin des Plantes - Explore Jardin des Plantes - A Verdant Escape in the Heart of Paris: Take a virtual stroll through Paris's historic botanical garden, Jardin des Plantes. Discover its lush landscapes, rich biodiversity, and tranquil vibes, an oasis amidst the urban hustle. It's a reminder that even in the heart of the city, nature's beauty flourishes!
➡️ French Bee - Affordable Transatlantic Travel with French Bee: A budget-friendly airline linking the US and France. Despite the seats being slightly cozier (smaller) than average, we found the significant savings to be worthwhile. Especially when traveling with our little one, we booked an entire row (three seats) for ourselves! With great prices and customer service, French Bee might just be the solution for your next French getaway. That said, we prefer Air France, the airline we've flown the most between the US and France.
Café Culture: The Indiana Café Experiment
Paris is the city of lights, haute couture, and indubitably, culinary delights. It's a place where every café, bistro, and brasserie tells a story. This week, we ventured out of our comfort zone to visit a restaurant often asked about but somewhat of an anomaly in the Parisian dining scene: Indiana Café.
We've spent years exploring Paris, savoring its culinary triumphs, and sharing them with you. We'd bypassed Indiana Café—Paris's own take on American fare—until curiosity and frequent inquiries from our readers led us to its doors.
If you're in Paris and inexplicably yearning for a hint of Americana, Indiana Café might be your spot. It's an eatery with a reasonable price tag, offering burgers, salads, and Tex-Mex dishes. It's a stark contrast to the city's revered culinary landscape, but sometimes, familiarity serves its own comfort.
However, we recommend adjusting your culinary barometer. Indiana Café offers an American diner-style experience, but it's not a culinary landmark. The fare is average—satiating when the cravings hit, but it won't tantalize your taste buds like a traditional Parisian patisserie or bistro would.
Our verdict? We tried Indiana Café so you don't have to. However, if you find yourself missing a taste of home, it could provide a familiar reprieve. Just remember, the beauty of Paris lies in its gastronomic diversity. So, don't forget to step out and explore the city's culinary treasures.
Let's consider this a checkpoint on our Parisian journey. We're back on track next time, diving deep into the rich tapestry of Parisian café culture. So stay tuned and, as always, bon appétit!
Hidden Gems: The Enchanted Oasis of Jardin des Plantes

In the heart of Paris lies a hidden jewel that offers a tranquil escape from the bustling city: the Jardin des Plantes. As the city's main botanical garden, it's a unique blend of natural beauty, scientific interest, and historical significance that will captivate any visitor.
The garden's roots trace back to the 17th century when it served as a medicinal herb garden for the king. Today, it encompasses 28 hectares, with thousands of labeled plant species spread across beautifully manicured gardens, greenhouses, and exhibits.

Not merely a showcase of diverse flora, the Jardin des Plantes is also home to the Museum of Natural History, where visitors can delve into various facets of natural science. From the evolution exhibit in the Grande Galerie de l'Evolution to the Mineralogy and Geology Gallery housing a stunning collection of over 600,000 mineral specimens, there is something to intrigue everyone.
Take a stroll along the main alley lined with perfectly trimmed trees that change with the seasons, visit the Rose Garden boasting hundreds of rose varieties, or explore the Alpine Garden with over 2,000 mountain plant species from around the world. If you're visiting with children, the small zoo, the Ménagerie, is a must-visit, housing an array of fascinating creatures. Our Son (two years old) is in love with the monkeys and impersonates them constantly.

Whether you're a plant lover, a history enthusiast, or just seeking a peaceful haven, Jardin des Plantes provides an unforgettable journey through nature and time right in the center of Paris.
Here is a short video I made while walking around Jardin des Plantes this week:
Travel Tips: Discovering Paris in the Shoulder Seasons
Paris, the city of love and light, has a timeless allure that attracts millions of tourists every year. While summer can be charming with its sunny skies and lively festivals, it can also bring large crowds - and with the upcoming Olympics in 2024, next summer promises to be particularly bustling. Therefore, we recommend considering a trip during the shoulder seasons - spring (April to June) and fall (September to November) - when the city offers a different kind of charm.

Visiting Paris in the shoulder seasons means fewer tourists, shorter lines at attractions, and more opportunities to interact with locals. The city unfolds itself in beautiful colors, with spring bringing cherry blossoms and fall offering a spectacular display of autumn foliage.
The weather during these months is usually mild, with temperatures that allow for comfortable exploration. However, occasional rain showers are not uncommon, so packing an umbrella and a waterproof jacket is advisable. Layered clothing works best as you can adjust to the changing temperatures during the day.

Enjoy leisurely strolls along the Seine, have a picnic in the less crowded parks, or simply savor the beauty of iconic landmarks like the Eiffel Tower and Notre-Dame without the usual throngs of tourists. Museums and galleries also tend to be less crowded, making it a great time to immerse yourself in Paris' rich art and culture scene.
Additionally, this is the time when Paris hosts several cultural events like the Nuit Blanche, a night-time arts festival in October, and the Foire du Trone, one of the city's oldest fairs happening in the spring.
While each season in Paris has its unique allure, there's something incredibly special about experiencing the city during the shoulder seasons. As the city gears up for the Olympics, consider experiencing Paris in the serenity and splendor of the fall and spring.
Art & Literature: Gertrude Stein, a Literary Legend in Paris

Gertrude Stein
The American author Gertrude Stein, along with her partner Alice B. Toklas, were at the heart of the literary and artistic world in Paris during the early 20th century. Their salon at 27 Rue de Fleurus was a gathering place for the likes of Pablo Picasso, Ernest Hemingway, and F. Scott Fitzgerald. Here, works of art and groundbreaking literature were exchanged and critiqued, profoundly shaping the modernist movement.

Gertrude Stein and Pablo Picasso
Stein's famous phrase, "A rose is a rose is a rose," exemplified her inventive approach to language. Her work pushed boundaries and continues to inspire writers today. Stein herself was deeply inspired by her life in Paris, and the city, in turn, remembers her contributions with great fondness.
To walk in Stein's footsteps, visitors can start with the historic Shakespeare and Company bookstore—an institution itself steeped in literary history. A stroll through the Latin Quarter, traditionally an artists' haven and home to many writers including Stein, is also a way to immerse yourself in the environment that nurtured her unique style.

Remember, Paris is a city that cherishes its literary heroes, and Gertrude Stein is undeniably one of them. Her spirit persists in the cafes, bookstores, and cobblestone streets that she once frequented. Delve into her works, and you'll find a Paris that continues to live and breathe within her words.
A Peek into History: The Story of the French Croissant

Biting into a warm, flaky croissant is an essential part of the French breakfast experience, a ritual that locals and tourists alike treasure. But did you know that this quintessentially French pastry has foreign origins? The croissant, in fact, has a fascinating history that ties it to a European neighbor - Austria.
The story of the croissant begins in 17th-century Vienna, where local bakers created a pastry in the shape of a crescent (or 'Kipferl' in German) to celebrate their victory over the invading Ottoman Turks. The crescent shape was chosen as a reference to the crescents found on the Ottoman flags. These pastries quickly became popular across Austria.
The croissant as we know it came into being in the 19th century when an Austrian artillery officer named August Zang opened a Viennese bakery in Paris. He began selling the traditional Austrian Kipferl, but with a French twist – using puff pastry, which is lighter and flakier. This novel pastry quickly gained popularity among the Parisians.

With time, French bakers started making their own versions, and by the 20th century, the croissant had become a staple of French breakfast cuisine. Today, there are numerous variations on the classic croissant, including the pain au chocolat (a square-shaped croissant filled with chocolate), and the almond croissant (a day-old croissant filled with almond cream and topped with sliced almonds).
Though the croissant is not originally French, it has been so wholeheartedly adopted and adapted by French culture that it has become one of the most recognizable symbols of French gastronomy. So, next time you enjoy a crispy, buttery croissant, remember the international journey it took to arrive at your breakfast table.
Fun and Unusual Stuff: The Eclectic Charm of Rue des Martyrs

Rue des Martyrs
Quick Snapshot: As I'm crafting this issue of our newsletter, I've nestled myself in a quaint corner of La Rimaudière, cozily tucked at the foot of the bustling Rue des Martyrs. Soft rain patters rhythmically on the awning above me, adding a serene soundtrack to my thoughts. In my view is a grand old church, its venerable stones whispering tales of times gone by. This, my dear friends, is one of those 'unmistakably Paris' moments, where the city's charm, history, and artistic ambiance converge into a perfect picture.

An iPhone snapshot of my current view of Paris
For those seeking a slice of authentic Parisian life, look no further than Rue des Martyrs. Nestled in the 9th arrondissement, this vibrant street is a microcosm of the city itself, rich in history, culture, and mouth-watering cuisine. It's not your typical tourist destination - and that's exactly what makes it so special.
Lined with over 200 shops, Rue des Martyrs is a treasure trove for food lovers, fashion enthusiasts, and history buffs alike. As you meander down the street, you'll find everything from artisanal cheese shops and family-run bakeries to chic boutiques and vintage bookstores.

This is a fantastic coffee spot called KB Coffee Roasters, with a partial view of Sacré-Cœur.

Indulge in some of the finest local produce at the numerous food shops - a sensory delight of colors, smells, and tastes. Take your pick from traditional patisseries, specialty coffee roasters, organic fruit, and vegetable stores, or even an oyster bar. Don't miss out on visiting one of the several chocolatiers for a sweet treat.

But there's more to Rue des Martyrs than just the delectable food. Be sure to pay a visit to the historical sites that dot the street. At the top of the hill, you'll find the imposing Sacré-Cœur Basilica, offering sweeping views over the city.
Rue des Martyrs is a street that wears many hats. It's a foodie's paradise, a shopper's delight, and a historian's dream. But above all, it's a microcosm of Parisian life. To stroll down Rue des Martyrs is to embrace the rhythms of the city, to see Paris not as a tourist, but through the eyes of a local. So, next time you're in the City of Lights, take the time to uncover the unique charm of Rue des Martyrs. You won't regret it.
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