In This Issue of The Paris Love Letter

• Café Culture: The Parisian Bistronomy Revolution

• Hidden Gems: Le Passage des Panoramas - Paris' Vintage Secret

• Travel Tips: Your Health in Paris - Pharmacies, Emergencies, and More

• Inspiring Stories: François and the Bouquinistes of Paris

• Art & Literature: Simone de Beauvoir - A Philosopher in the Café

• A Peek into History: Les Halles – The Metamorphosis of Paris' Belly

• Fun and Unusual Stuff: Invaded by Art - The Quirky Mosaic Aliens of Paris

• Your Questions Answered: Paris on a Shoestring Budget

• Featured French Song: An old French tune (by Georges Brassens) | Pomplamoose ft. John Schroeder

Found in Paris - Fun & Useful Stuff From The Web

➡️ Paris In My Pocket - This is the best Paris guide I've found. Jay Swanson has curated a fantastic list of restaurants, bars, and coffee shops (and so much more) I often reference as I'm roaming in arrondissements I'm less familiar with. I'm writing this issue of the newsletter from one of his coffee shop recommendations in the 18th today.

Café Culture: The Parisian Bistronomy Revolution

When you think of Paris, visions of grand dining establishments with starched white tablecloths, polished silverware, and a sommelier on standby might spring to mind. But over the past couple of decades, Paris has undergone a culinary metamorphosis, one that's less about Michelin stars and more about hearty, innovative cuisine served in a relaxed atmosphere. Enter Bistronomy.

Born from the words "bistro" and "gastronomy," Bistronomy represents a shift towards casual, high-quality dining. Around the turn of the millennium, chefs began to rebel against the constraints of traditional haute cuisine, preferring instead to open intimate venues where they could experiment with classic French recipes, infuse international flavors, and focus on local, seasonal ingredients. These modern bistros, or "bistronomic" restaurants, have rejuvenated Paris's culinary scene, offering excellent fare at accessible prices.

Let's highlight a couple of standout establishments leading this Bistronomy revolution.

Septime: Situated in the 11th arrondissement, Septime, led by the talented Chef Bertrand Grébaut, is known for its ever-changing menu and commitment to sustainable ingredients. With its relaxed ambience, Septime serves refined, thoughtfully presented dishes that have food enthusiasts lining up at its doors.

Le Comptoir du Relais: In the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, this bistro by Chef Yves Camdeborde, one of the pioneers of Bistronomy, blends tradition and innovation. At Le Comptoir du Relais, expect to find classic French dishes reinterpreted with flair and creativity.

In the bistronomy movement, Paris found a way to reinvent its culinary traditions, making them feel fresh, exciting, and, most importantly, accessible. And, as these innovative bistros continue to flourish, we, the fortunate diners, are treated to a feast of the senses, where each bite is a reminder of why Paris remains a culinary capital of the world.

Hidden Gems: Le Passage des Panoramas - Paris' Vintage Secret

In a city like Paris, bursting with iconic landmarks and tourist trails, it's easy to miss out on some less heralded, but equally captivating nooks. One such treasure is the Passage des Panoramas, a world away from the bustling grands boulevards it connects and an absolute gem for the lovers of the old-world Parisian charm.

Built in 1800, the Passage des Panoramas is the oldest of the remaining covered walkways in Paris. Once a feat of modernity with its glass ceiling, it allowed Parisians to shop in any weather, giving birth to a precursor of today's shopping malls. Nestled between Boulevard Montmartre and Rue Saint-Marc, this covered arcade may not have the grandeur of the Champs-Élysées, but what it lacks in splendor, it makes up for with its quaint charm and nostalgic ambiance.

Inside, you'll find a warren of unique shops and traditional eateries. The passage feels like a living snapshot of a bygone era, from vintage postcard stores and philatelic boutiques to artisan ateliers. Food lovers will rejoice at seeing small bistros and gourmet establishments, like the noteworthy "Coinstot Vino," which offers an impressive selection of natural wines.

Walking down the Passage des Panoramas is more than a simple detour; it's a journey back in time. As you stroll through, the noise of the city fades away, replaced by the soft rustle of turning pages, the clink of glasses, and the quiet hum of hushed conversations. So, step off the beaten path and explore this charming microcosm of Parisian life, which encapsulates the spirit of Paris as a city that holds tightly to its past while stepping boldly into the future.

Travel Tips: Your Health in Paris - Pharmacies, Emergencies, and More

Paris, the city of love and lights, is an enthralling experience that unexpected health hitches can occasionally accompany. From mild annoyances like blisters from hours of walking to more severe conditions, it's good to know how to navigate the Parisian healthcare landscape as a visitor.

Your first point of contact for minor health issues should be the local pharmacy or "pharmacie". Parisian pharmacies, recognized by their flashing green crosses, are more than places to pick up a prescription. The pharmacists are well-trained and often multilingual, offering advice for various ailments from the common cold to digestive issues, and selling over-the-counter medications. They're your best bet for an initial consultation. You'll be surprised at the level of healthcare advice they can provide.

In case of a medical emergency, the European emergency number is 112. It's free and available 24/7, offering assistance in English and French. Whether it's a serious accident or a sudden health issue, don't hesitate to dial 112. Be sure to clearly explain the situation and provide your exact location for swift assistance.

Don't forget; if you're from outside the EU, it's essential to have comprehensive travel insurance covering healthcare. Check with your insurance provider for claim procedure details, and always keep their contact information handy.

The Parisian healthcare system is reliable and efficient, ensuring you're well cared for during your visit. So, put your mind at ease and return to exploring the beautiful city, knowing that help is always at your fingertips.

Inspiring Stories: François and the Bouquinistes of Paris

Paris, an iconic literary city, has a long-standing tradition that dates back to the 16th century - the "Bouquinistes". These booksellers of used and antiquarian books are an integral part of the Parisian landscape, setting up their green boxes along the banks of the Seine. Today, let's walk through the riveting tale of one of them, François.

François, a man whose heart beats with the rhythm of Paris, has been a Bouquiniste for over three decades. His green treasure chest stand is nested on the Left Bank, offering a spectacular view of Notre Dame. Each day, he meticulously sets up his wares - a vibrant array of books, antique prints, and vintage postcards - much to the delight of passersby.

While digitizing books threatens this historical tradition, François and his fellow Bouquinistes stand as sentinels of the printed word, fostering a tangible connection between the reader and the material. François believes that a book's touch, smell, and feel create an intimate experience that technology cannot replicate.

François's stall is not just a bookstore; it's a cultural dialogue. He doesn't just sell books; he weaves tales, sharing anecdotes about writers, historical events, and his personal experiences. Visitors are entranced by his wisdom, often leaving with a book they never intended to purchase, won over by François's storytelling.

The Bouquinistes, much like François, are custodians of Paris's literary soul. In 1991, UNESCO recognized their cultural significance, designating the Bouquinistes as a world heritage. The sight of these forest-green boxes is as quintessentially Parisian as the Eiffel Tower or Montmartre's windmills.

Through the story of François, we remember that the Bouquinistes are not just vendors; they are ambassadors of culture and history, their green stalls serving as a bridge from Paris's past to its present. Long may they continue to add a dash of literary charm to the banks of the Seine.

Art & Literature: Simone de Beauvoir - A Philosopher in the Café

Paris in the mid-20th century was a hotbed of intellectual discourse, and its cafés were the meeting grounds for some of the era's greatest minds. Among them was the brilliant Simone de Beauvoir, a pivotal figure in feminist existentialism, who held court in the bustling coffee houses of Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

Born in Paris in 1908, de Beauvoir was a leading light in the existentialist movement. Her magnum opus, "The Second Sex," is often regarded as the starting point of second-wave feminism. This work delved into the treatment and perception of women throughout history, laying the groundwork for future feminist theories.

But to truly appreciate de Beauvoir, one must picture her in the café culture of post-war Paris, where she, along with contemporaries like Jean-Paul Sartre, formed the nucleus of existentialist thought. Cafés like Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore served not just coffee, but also as the stage for lively debates and the exchange of transformative ideas.

In e cafés, de Beauvoir wrote, thought, and discussed with an enthusiasm that echoed the revolutionary ideas of her time. The café was her office, living room, and seminar hall. She wasn’t just a part of the café culture but a driving force behind it, challenging societal norms and pushing for women’s rights.

Today, as you stroll through the streets of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, you can still feel de Beauvoir's indelible influence. From the worn tables of Café de Flore, one can almost hear the echoes of her discussions with Sartre or her passionate defense of women's rights. Like the aroma of coffee in the Parisian air, her legacy lingers on.

So, next time you visit Paris, don't just order a café au lait. Sit back, imagine Simone de Beauvoir across the table, and let the spirit of intellectual discourse wash over you. Paris isn’t just a city of lights; it’s a city of thoughts, where every corner café hums with the remnants of philosophical discussions and revolutionary ideas.

A Peek into History: Les Halles – The Metamorphosis of Paris' Belly

From the pulsing heart of a sprawling food market to a sleek modern shopping center, Les Halles has always been a place of ceaseless activity. Known as the "Belly of Paris," Les Halles has, for centuries, mirrored the evolution of Paris itself.

In the Middle Ages, Les Halles began as a central marketplace for merchants selling fresh produce, meats, and other goods. Its beating heart was the fresh food market, which, by the 19th century, had transformed into an enormous iron and glass structure, supplying the city with the choicest of provisions. French author Emile Zola famously christened it "The Belly of Paris," a moniker that captured its significance in the life of the city.

ris evolved, so did Les Halles. The old market, with its frenzied charm, was replaced in the 1970s with a modern shopping center, forever changing the character of the neighborhood. Today's Les Halles is an architectural marvel, a glass canopy sheltering an underground labyrinth of shops, restaurants, and a cinema.

eamidst the hustle and bustle of commerce, one can still hear the echoes of the old market. The lively debates of vendors, the rhythmic sounds of commerce, the aroma of fresh produce – these memories linger, reminders of a Paris that once was.

Visiting Les Halles today, you'll see Parisians and tourists alike drawn to its contemporary appeal. But as you explore, remember to pause for a moment. Close your eyes, and you might hear the faint echoes of vendors hawking fresh fruits and vegetables, the murmur of Parisian's bartering - the heartbeat of the city that once pulsed through the Belly of Paris.

Fun and Unusual Stuff: Invaded by Art - The Quirky Mosaic Aliens of Paris

Irisn't limited to grand museums and galleries - it pops up in the most unexpected places. Case in point: the whimsical phenomenon of "Space Invaders." Inspired by the retro video game, these mosaic creatures have been secretly 'invading' the city, adding a playful touch to its historic façades.

This citywide art project is the brainchild of an anonymous artist known only as Invader. Since the late '90s, he's been stealthily installing these tile creations on buildings around the globe, with Paris - his hometown - boasting the highest concentration.

Crafted from small square tiles, each piece is a pixelated alien creature instantly recognizable to anyone familiar with the arcade game. The locations are carefully chosen; sometimes, they connect with the building's history or its place in the city's culture.

Pae jpace Invaders' is the unexpected thrill of discovery. They might be lurking high up on a building corner, tucked into a narrow alley, or staring down from above a shop sign. Some are easy to spot; others demand a keen eye.

The 'invasion' has become a fun scavenger hunt for locals and tourists alike, each trying to spot as many as they can. There's even a dedicated app, 'FlashInvaders,' that lets you keep score and compete with other alien hunters around the world.

So, as you wander the City of Light, keep your eyes peeled - you never know when you might cross paths with an Invader. And when you do, you'll get a glimpse of the playful side of Paris, a city where even the walls can surprise and delight you.

Featured French Song

An old French tune (by Georges Brassens) | Pomplamoose ft. John Schroeder