In This Issue of The Paris Love Letter

• Café Culture: A Glimpse into 'Le Procope'

• Hidden Gems: Parc de Belleville, a Locals Park

• Travel Tips: Stroll Through Paris's Pedestrian Streets

• Art & Literature: The Enigmatic Verse of Rimbaud

• Inspiring Stories: Les Clés de Notre Dame – Guardians of a Legacy

• A Peek into History: Unveiling the Charm of the Marais

• Your Questions Answered: The Best Views in Paris

• Featured French Song of The Week: Camille - Paris

Found in Paris - Fun & Useful Stuff From The Web

➡️ France Channel - Streaming Service with French Movies and Shows with English and French subtitles. It's a Paid Subscription, but we are not affiliated in any way, just happy users! I'm watching as much French content (including French cartoons with our Son 😁) as possible to help with language learning.

➡️ Citymapper - The best app for navigating Paris we've found. It's free for iPhone & Android.

➡️ The Connextion - French News in English. This is an excellent resource for French news and articles about France. It's mainly aimed at ex-pats living in France.

Café Culture: A Glimpse into 'Le Procope'

Le Procope Website

Welcome back, dear readers, to our beloved Café Culture section, where this week we're stepping back in time at 'Le Procope' - an institution that's as much a museum as it is a café. Known as the oldest café in Paris, it opened its doors way back in 1686, initially serving gelato before evolving into a literary and intellectual hub.

Le Procope quickly became a favorite amongst the city's thinkers and writers. Enlightenment thinker Voltaire was known to frequent this establishment, allegedly consuming large amounts of coffee to fuel his writings. Even America's own Benjamin Franklin enjoyed many a cup within these historic walls as he chatted and deliberated on ideas that would shape the world.

As you walk through the doors of Le Procope, you'll be stepping onto the same worn cobblestones where great minds of the past mused over life's big questions. The décor pays homage to its history with an intriguing collection of 18th-century relics. Look out for Napoleon Bonaparte's hat, which he allegedly left behind as collateral for his coffee tab!

While you're sipping on your café au lait or enjoying a classic Coq au Vin, take a moment to relish the atmosphere that's been brewing for more than three centuries. It's not just about the coffee here – it's about the stories, the people, and the history. Amid the bustling Left Bank, Le Procope offers a peaceful, inspiring, and incredibly unique café experience.

And who knows? Perhaps the echoes of past intellectuals will inspire your own moment of brilliance. Until next time, continue savoring the rich café culture of Paris!

"In this treasured photo, there's Laura, my then girlfriend, now wife, dressed casually for a perfect Parisian day. We're at Café Le Procope, tucked away in our little corner of the terrace. There was something magical about the quiet around us like the café had taken a deep breath. I asked her to read French poetry aloud. The lyrical French verses, beyond my comprehension, sounded beautiful to my foreign ears, like a gentle, melodic song. We were caught in our little world, two hearts falling deeper in love, not just with each other, but with Paris too. It was these moments, these private Parisian snapshots, that we've held onto the most." - James Christopher Knight

Hidden Gems: Parc de Belleville

Nestled within the lively Belleville neighborhood is Parc de Belleville, a delightful gem that often escapes the typical tourist itinerary. As former residents of this vibrant area, Laura and I spent many afternoons taking in the panoramic views of Paris from this hillside park.

Perched at a height of 108 meters, the park offers an unparalleled vista of the city, revealing landmarks like the Eiffel Tower and Sacré-Cœur in its sprawling cityscape. On clear days, you can even see as far as La Défense.

But Parc de Belleville isn't just about the breathtaking views. Its cascade of terraces is home to charming water features, modern sculptures, and even a vineyard, the only one outside Montmartre. We used to love finding a sunny spot for an afternoon picnic or indulging in a good book.

Also worth a visit is the Maison de l'Air at the top of the park, an educational center dedicated to the study of air quality with interesting exhibits for both kids and adults.

After a leisurely afternoon in the park, we often found ourselves at Floréal Belleville, a favorite café situated just a short stroll away. With its friendly ambiance, it was the perfect spot to rest our feet and enjoy a café au lait or a refreshing pastis. Just kidding, I can't acquire a taste for pastis! I keep trying but haven't had any luck. You can learn about pastis here if you haven't heard of it.

Floréal Belleville Website

Belleville is a vibrant multicultural neighborhood with a strong artistic tradition, home to numerous artists' studios and colorful street art. The park, the café, the streets - they all are slices of an authentic Paris that we loved living in and continue to cherish. As Victor Hugo once said, "To err is human. To loaf is Parisian." And what better place to loaf than in Parc de Belleville?

I made this short video (just with my phone - not high quality) while walking through Parc de Belleville one afternoon. I loved seeing people gathered in parks, along with the spontaneous dancing!

Travel Tips: Stroll Through Paris's Pedestrian Streets

One of the best ways to experience the Parisian joie de vivre is by exploring its enchanting pedestrian streets. Closed off to vehicular traffic, these areas offer tranquil havens amidst the bustling city, brimming with café terraces, quaint boutiques, and splendid architecture. Here are a few to add to your itinerary:

1. Rue Montorgueil: Located in the 2nd arrondissement, this vibrant street is a food lover's paradise. Charming greengrocers, bakeries, and fromageries line the path, and you'll often find locals enjoying their espresso at the countless sidewalk cafés.

2. Rue des Rosiers: Nestled in the historic Jewish quarter of Le Marais, this cobblestoned street is home to world-renowned falafel joints, vintage stores, and artisan bakeries. Don't forget to try the renowned Jewish pastries!

3. Rue Cler: Situated in the elegant 7th arrondissement, Rue Cler is often cited as the most beautiful market street in Paris. Here you'll find a delightful mix of quality food stalls, chic boutiques, and cozy cafés – a perfect spot for a leisurely brunch or an afternoon café crème.

4. Cour du Commerce Saint-André: This hidden gem in the 6th arrondissement, with its charming old-world ambiance, houses the oldest café in Paris, Le Procope, and the location of the former print shop where Dr. Guillotin constructed his infamous guillotine.

5. Rue Mouffetard: This lively street in the Latin Quarter is one of Paris's oldest and most vibrant market streets. Overflowing with food stalls, cafés, and bars, the animated Rue Mouffetard exudes a village-like charm.

Remember, the joy of Paris lies not just in its iconic landmarks but also in its quieter corners, where everyday life unfolds at a leisurely pace. As you explore these pedestrian streets, take time to absorb the unique atmosphere of each and perhaps, you'll understand why Hemingway referred to Paris as a "moveable feast."

Art & Literature: The Enigmatic Verse of Rimbaud

The French literary landscape is studded with luminaries, but few shone as brightly or burned out as quickly as Arthur Rimbaud. A prodigious talent, Rimbaud penned some of his most enduring works before he turned 20, including his celebrated poem, "Le Dormeur du Val" ("The Sleeper in the Valley"). His complex, vibrant verse has captivated readers for generations, earning him a revered place in French poetic history.

When Laura and I were dating in Paris, I was particularly drawn to Rimbaud's evocative imagery and profound exploration of the human condition. Listening to his words flow from Laura's lips as we nestled in the intimate corners of Parisian cafés was profoundly touching. His poetry added a layer of enchantment to our shared moments, painting our memories with hues of romance and intellectualism.

His life, like his poetry, was a study of contrasts. Rimbaud was a defiant rebel, an insatiable wanderer, who abandoned his writing career early, choosing instead a peripatetic existence that took him as far as Ethiopia. His untamed spirit and poignant words continue to resonate with readers, reminding us that art and life can both be bold, unpredictable, and breathtakingly beautiful.

If you have a chance, pick up a book of his poems and let yourself be swept away by the powerful currents of his words. You may find, as I did, a deeper connection with the romantic heart of Paris and the passion that animates its soul.

Here is a documentary on Rimbaud I found on YouTube:

Inspiring Stories: Les Clés de Notre Dame – Guardians of a Legacy

Despite the tragic fire that devastated Notre Dame Cathedral in 2019, the spirit of this iconic landmark remains undaunted, in no small part due to the efforts of 'Les Clés de Notre Dame.' This group of dedicated volunteers devotes countless hours to maintaining and preserving this historic gem.

Comprised of both locals and international volunteers, these unsung heroes labor behind the scenes to ensure that the cathedral's legacy remains intact. From organizing fundraising initiatives to maintaining the temporary wooden cathedral installed in the square, their dedication is a testament to the indomitable spirit of Paris and its people.

"Everyone knows the mighty individuality of the towers and the façade; their severe, their noble, their delightful details."

- Henry James

Their efforts go beyond the physical restoration of Notre Dame. They also work tirelessly to preserve its historical and cultural significance, conducting tours and educational programs to share the rich history of this beloved landmark.

The story of 'Les Clés de Notre Dame' is one of devotion and unity, of ordinary people coming together to safeguard a treasure close to their hearts. It is a reminder that even in the face of adversity, the heart of Paris beats strong, and its spirit is as resilient as ever.

For those of us who have a piece of our hearts in Paris, it is a humbling and inspiring tale and an affirmation of why we continue to be captivated by the City of Light.

A Peek into History: Unveiling the Charm of Le Marais

Tucked away in the heart of Paris lies my absolute favorite neighborhood, the Marais. This enchanting district is a splendid fusion of history and hip vibes, where old-world charm meets contemporary Parisian chic.

Originally a marshland, the Marais started gaining prominence in the 14th century when Charles V constructed a royal residence, the Hotel Saint-Pol. In the following centuries, the area was transformed into a fashionable district for the Parisian nobility, and grand mansions, or "hôtels particuliers," sprung up in abundance. Some of these beautifully preserved buildings, like the Hotel de Beauvais and Hotel de Sully, still stand today, offering a stunning glimpse into Paris's grand past.

However, it's not just the tangible history that makes the Marais fascinating—it's the spirit of the district. Surviving the Haussmannian renovations that swept across Paris in the 19th century, the Marais retains its old-world allure with narrow, winding streets and picturesque squares.

This district, once the epicenter of French aristocracy, is now an eclectic mix of trendy boutiques, vibrant cafes, and some of Paris's most renowned art galleries. Yet, amidst the bustle, it continues to breathe history, making every walk feel like a delightful journey back in time.

Whether it's the stunning Place des Vosges, the oldest planned square in Paris, the charming rue des Rosiers in the heart of the historic Jewish quarter, or the cutting-edge Centre Pompidou, the Marais offers a blend of history and modernity that makes this district absolutely irresistible.

I can't wait for you to explore it, experience its magic, and perhaps, like me, you'll fall in love with the Marais, where history whispers from every corner and innovation pulses through its veins.

Here's a silly video of our little lion enjoying the Marais

Your Questions Answered: The Best Views in Paris

This week, we've got a question from a reader planning their first trip to Paris: "Where can I find the best panoramic views of the city?" Great question! Here are some of my favorite spots:

1. Eiffel Tower: It's a classic for a reason. Head up to the top for a spectacular 360-degree view of the city. Tip: For a less crowded experience, try going in the early morning or late evening. The only downside is you can't see the Eiffel Tower from the Eiffel Tower. 😜

2. Montparnasse Tower: A lesser-known alternative to the Eiffel Tower, the Montparnasse Tower offers an incredible panoramic view. Plus, you get the Eiffel Tower in your photos!

3. Sacré-Cœur Basilica: Located in Montmartre, the highest point in the city, the basilica offers breathtaking views, especially at sunrise or sunset.

4. Parc de Belleville: This park, located in the 20th arrondissement, has one of the most stunning panoramic views of Paris. Plus, it's less touristy than other viewpoints.

5. The rooftop of Galeries Lafayette: This is a gem. You can have a coffee or glass of wine on the rooftop while enjoying a fantastic view of the city, including the Opera Garnier and the Eiffel Tower.

6. Rooftop of the Institut du Monde Arabe: Here you'll get a unique view of Notre Dame and the Seine river, along with the rest of the city. And it's free!

7. Pont de Bir-Hakeim: For a different perspective, head to this bridge at sunrise or sunset. You'll get a fabulous view of the Seine with the Eiffel Tower in the background.

8. Centre Pompidou: The terrace of Centre Pompidou offers a sweeping panoramic view over Paris' rooftops. It's particularly stunning at sunset.

9. Arc de Triomphe: Last but not least, the view from the top of the Arc de Triomphe is simply unbeatable. You get a clear view of the twelve avenues radiating out from the Arc, including the Champs-Élysées, and an impressive perspective of the cityscape.

Each of these places provides a unique vantage point, so try to visit a few during your stay. You'll come away with stunning photos and memories of Paris from above. Enjoy your trip!

Featured French Song

Camille - Paris