Our Week in Paris

I’ve started tour guiding again this season with Bike About Tours, and I’m loving biking around Paris—it’s the best way to see the city. Check out their bike tours at my Viator Shop. I’m only part-time, so no promises I’ll be your guide, but all their guides are great and know the city inside out.

Linking You to Paris

➡️ The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express Is Now Traveling From Paris to Tuscany: This Condé Nast Traveler article explores the luxurious Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, which now offers a journey from Paris to the stunning landscapes of Tuscany.

➡️ Paris’s rewilded railway line: the disused track turned into a green space for wildlife and walkers: This Guardian article explores a Paris railway being transformed into a rewilded walking path, offering a less polished alternative to New York’s High Line. It highlights the city’s efforts to blend nature and urban life for pedestrians.

➡️ 14 most beautiful boutique hotels in Paris: This Time Out Paris article rounds up the most beautiful boutique hotels in the city, showcasing charming, stylish stays that capture Paris’s unique allure. It’s a handy guide for readers seeking an intimate alternative to the big chains.

➡️ In Paris, 5 Stores to Find Chanel, Dior and More at a Markdown: This New York Times article dives into Paris’s upscale dépôt-ventes—secondhand boutiques where locals consign high-end fashion like Chanel and Hermès at steep discounts. It maps out five standout shops across neighborhoods like the Marais and Pigalle.

VISITING PARIS
The 6th Arrondissement

I find myself with mixed feelings about the 6th—I often try to avoid it because of the crowds swirling around Saint-Germain-des-Prés, but it’s also one of my favorite arrondissements, and I can’t resist wandering its charming streets. Along the river on the Left Bank, it hums with a creative spirit and history that runs deep, from Roman Lutetia to today’s chic haunts.

Literary legends once lingered over coffee here, and now, it blends stylish streets with classic Parisian charm. I love exploring its neighborhoods—like Odéon, with its theatrical vibe—and stumbling into spots like Le Hibou, where I’ll sip coffee on the terrace or enjoy a meal later in the day. The 6th feels like Paris distilled: elegant, intellectual, and just a touch indulgent.

History and Main Sights

The 6th has roots that stretch back to Roman Lutetia, but it really came into its own with the Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, founded in the 6th century. By the 20th century, it was the haunt of writers and artists—imagine Sartre scribbling at Café de Flore.

The Jardin du Luxembourg, a sprawling 25-hectare park, is a standout, with its Senate Palace and fountains perfect for a quiet afternoon. Église de Saint-Sulpice, with its towering facade and Delacroix frescoes, is another gem—its fame from "The Da Vinci Code" only adds to the intrigue.

Over in the Odéon neighborhood, the Odéon-Théâtre de l’Europe, built in 1782, still draws crowds with its mix of classic and modern plays. The Pont des Arts, linking the 6th to the 1st, offers postcard-worthy views, even without its famous love locks.

Art and Culture

Art flows through the 6th like the Seine through Paris. The École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, with over 350 years of history, churns out talent and opens its courtyards to curious visitors.

Galleries like Galerie Nathalie Obadia keep the contemporary scene alive, while the Institut de France, home to the Académie Française, nods to the district’s intellectual legacy. Odéon adds its own cultural punch with its theater and bookshops, feeding the area’s artistic soul. It’s a place where you can feel the weight of creativity in the air.

Food and Hidden Gems

Food here is a treat. Le Hibou, mentioned above, is a favorite of mine, serving French classics with a cozy vibe. Then there’s Les Éditeurs, where I once had a burger so good it’s stuck with me, though it’s been a while since my last visit; it’s a literary-themed spot with books lining the walls, perfect for a casual bite.

Nearby, La Palette on Rue de Seine is a bohemian classic, famous for drawing artists like Picasso and art students from the Beaux-Arts—its terrace is great for people-watching over a coffee. Café de Flore, despite its fame, actually pours a solid cup—everything’s overpriced, but the experience might be worth it if you’re curious about its storied past.

For something tucked away, the Cour du Commerce Saint-André is a narrow passage with a dark claim to fame—Dr. Guillotin tested his infamous guillotine here in the 1790s. It’s also a backdoor into Le Procope, opened in 1686 and famously visited by Benjamin Franklin during his Paris years. I’m not wild about the food, but people flock to see its historic charm. Nearby, Rue Férou offers a lighter surprise—Arthur Rimbaud’s poem "Le Bateau Ivre" painted on a wall, a gift for poetry lovers.

Where to Stay

Staying in the 6th puts you in the heart of it all. Hotel Madison, facing Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés, mixes history with comfort—rates hover around 200–300 euros a night. Hotel d’Aubusson, with its spa and 17th-century beams, feels like a luxurious step back in time.

Then there’s Relais Christine, a gem on Rue Christine. Friends rave about its intimate vibe and private garden. I’ve popped into its lobby and breakfast area, and the cozy elegance is undeniable. Rates are similar, around 250–350 euros, and you’re well-connected with metro lines 4 and 10 (stops like Odéon and Mabillon) linking you to the rest of Paris. It’s pricier than the 5th but less touristy than the 7th, striking a sweet spot for exploring.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
Rue Férou’s Poetic Secret

Between Saint-Sulpice and the Jardin du Luxembourg in the 6th arrondissement, Rue Férou is easy to miss. It’s a quiet little street, the kind you might breeze by without a thought—until you catch sight of its secret.

Stretched across a weathered wall, Arthur Rimbaud’s 100-line poem "Le Bateau Ivre" (The Drunken Boat) stands out in bold, black letters. A Dutch foundation painted it there in 2012, and I stumbled across it once while wandering, feeling like I’d found a hidden piece of Paris. Written in 1871 by a 16-year-old Rimbaud, it’s a wild, dreamy tale of a boat breaking free, drifting through surreal seas—a rebellion against the ordinary that fits this artsy corner of Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

There’s no fanfare here, just the words against stone. I’d suggest looking up an English translation to read while you stand there—it deepens the experience, letting you sink into Rimbaud’s vision. In a city of big sights, this quiet nod to its literary soul feels special. Grab a coffee nearby and linger—it’s a treasure most visitors pass right by.

PARIS CAFES
La Palette’s Artistic Legacy

I’ve always been charmed by La Palette. It’s been a fixture since 1902, starting as a no-frills café near the École des Beaux-Arts. Back then, it pulled in painters like Picasso, Cézanne, and Braque, who’d swap sketches for a glass of wine—those discarded palettes gave it its name.

By the mid-20th century, it had a new crowd—Jim Morrison and Serge Gainsbourg added a rock ‘n’ roll edge to its bohemian roots. The place hasn’t changed much: worn tiles, art-strewn walls, and a terrace that’s prime for watching the world go by. It’s even earned historic monument status, locking in that old-Paris grit.

Today, it’s a mix of art students, gallery types, and folks like me, drawn by its stories. The coffee and menu are solid, but you’ll pay a bit extra for the legacy. I love its unpolished charm, just steps from the Seine. It’s not shouting for attention, but that’s what makes it special.

READER CONTRIBUTIONS
Parisian Postcards

Parisian Postcards is a space where we celebrate your unique experiences and memories of Paris. Whether it's a captivating photo, a delightful story, or a special moment from your travels, we want to hear from you.

To submit your contribution, email us at [email protected] or reply to this newsletter. I can't wait to see Paris through your eyes!

A warm thank you to Karen for sharing her lovely photo of "Kalap Alatt" (Under the Hat), a bronze statue by Hungarian artist András Lapis, found on Rue Bonaparte near the Jardin du Luxembourg in the 6th arrondissement.

Sitting in front of the Hungarian Institute, this barefoot young woman in a wide-brimmed hat, lost in reverie, invites passersby to join her on the bench. I love how our readers uncover these charming spots—her half-smile and dreamy pose capture the 6th’s magic. Got a Paris photo or story? Send it our way! Thanks again, Karen!

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Christophe Maé - Bouquet de roses

Christophe Maé’s Bouquet de Roses is a heartfelt track carried by his signature raspy voice, which adds a raw, emotional depth to his music.

I really enjoy this acoustic version of the song, especially the video—it captures the warmth of a few friends gathered on a summer-ish night, casually making music together.

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