đŸ‡«đŸ‡· 💌 The Paris Love Letter #102

The 7th Arrondissement + Musée Maillol + Fontaine de Mars + Charlotte Cardin - Les Échardes

In This Issue of The Paris Love Letter

  • Our Week In Paris: Our Adventures in Paris

  • Linking You To Paris: Links to Helpful & Fun Articles About Paris

  • Visiting Paris: The 7th Arrondissement

  • Paris Hidden Gems: MusĂ©e Maillol, an Artistic Treasure

  • A Peek Into History: Fontaine de Mars and Napoleon’s Vision

  • Featured French Song: Charlotte Cardin - Les Échardes

Our Week in Paris

Each week, I share a handful of photos. These images are like little postcards of our life in Paris, inviting you to see the city through our eyes.

© 2025 James Christopher Knight

  1. (top left) Watching a canal boat go through the locks.

  2. (top right) Random cafe terrace in the 9th.

  3. (bottom left) The Lion and his “fleurs.”

  4. (bottom right) A park above the canal near Bastille.

Linking You to Paris

âžĄïž 20 unusual places to see in Paris: This article from Paris’s tourism office, Paris je t’aime, highlights offbeat spots and lesser-known gems in the city. Even if you know the city well, I can guarantee you don’t know everything on this list!

âžĄïž Take the train from Paris to Milan on Europe's 'style express': This article from National Geographic announces the April 2025 return of Trenitalia’s Frecciarossa train service between Paris and Milan, resuming after a 2023 landslide suspension, with a swift six-and-a-half-hour trip starting at €35 one-way.

âžĄïž 17 Easy French Recipes for Everyday Cooking: This Food & Wine article presents a collection of easy French recipes, featuring classics like Leek and GruyĂšre Tart and Fromage Fort that bring Parisian flavors to your kitchen.

âžĄïž The one change that worked: I volunteered in a Paris bar – and found a whole new life in France: This Guardian article recounts Megan Clement’s transformation from a struggling expat to a confident French speaker through volunteering at Le Bar Commun, a Paris bar that helped her embrace the language and culture.

VISITING PARIS
The 7th Arrondissement

We’re rolling through all of Paris’s arrondissements in this series, and this week, we’re exploring the 7th! If you’ve missed our takes on the 1st through 6th, you can catch up on all the articles at TheParisLoveLetter.com.

The 7th arrondissement is a corner of Paris that feels like a polished gem on the Left Bank, home to the Eiffel Tower yet far quieter than you’d expect. Contrary to some visitors’ views, this district isn’t the city’s center.

Things are more spread out here, with residential neighborhoods that brood with elegance rather than buzz with nightlife. I love the posh, understated charm of the 7th, where grand mansions hide behind gates, and the often quiet streets give it a serene feel. It’s a place to slow down, take in the sights, and savor a different side of Paris.

Le Recrutement

© 2025 James Christopher Knight

History and Main Sights

The 7th’s story began in the 17th century, when nobility swapped the Marais for Faubourg Saint-Germain, building mansions that now house embassies. It hosted World’s Fairs, with the Eiffel Tower rising in 1889 for the Revolution’s centennial, and Haussmann’s 19th-century reforms shaped its wide boulevards.

The Eiffel Tower is the star, its iron lattice a global icon, while HĂŽtel des Invalides, with its golden dome from 1676, holds Napoleon’s tomb. MusĂ©e d’Orsay, in a former train station, showcases Impressionists, and MusĂ©e Rodin lets you see The Thinker in its garden. The National Assembly on Quai d’Orsay adds a political edge, and Champ de Mars, a sprawling park, is ideal for a picnic with a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower.

HĂŽtel des Invalides

HĂŽtel des Invalides © 2024 James Christopher Knight

Art and Culture

Art here is a draw. MusĂ©e d’Orsay, with its focus on 19th-century works, is my go-to for Monet and Degas—less hectic than the Louvre. MusĂ©e Rodin feels personal, with sculptures in a mansion’s garden. Faubourg Saint-Germain’s galleries, like Galerie Maeght, bring a modern touch, but the 7th’s cultural scene is more subdued, matching its residential calm.

Food and Hidden Gems

Dining in the 7th leans upscale. Bistrot Belhara, recommended by our friend the Mystery Parisian, offers traditional French dishes with a modern twist—it’ll be in our upcoming restaurant guide. Jaïs, another Mystery Parisian pick, blends French and North African flavors, also in the guide.

For a splurge, Le Jules Verne in the Eiffel Tower is quite good, and it is worth the experience for its views and cuisine. On Rue Cler, a mostly pedestrian street with a village vibe, you’ll find La MĂšre de Famille, a famous chocolate shop I love for its sweet treats. The street itself is a gem, with bistros like Le CafĂ© du MarchĂ© for a casual bite. Fontaine de Mars, next to the neoclassical fountain of the same name, is a quiet spot to pause.

Bateaux Parisiens

Image: Bateaux Parisiens website

For a special evening, the 7th is the place for a dinner cruise with Bateaux Parisiens—they also offer sightseeing and lunch cruises, bookable through our Viator shop linked below. We enjoyed their lunch cruise a few weeks ago!

Where to Stay

Staying in the 7th means luxury and calm. J.K. Place Paris, at 82 Rue de Lille near MusĂ©e d’Orsay, is 5-star with an indoor pool—rates around 400–500 euros a night. Le Derby Alma, on Avenue Rapp near the Eiffel Tower, offers chic rooms, maybe 250–350 euros. Hotel du Cadran, just off Rue Cler, is a 4-star option at 200–300 euros, with a modern Deco twist.

You’re well-connected with metro lines 8 (Ecole Militaire, Invalides), 10, 12, 13, and RER C (Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel), but expect less nightlife—cafĂ©s and bars are sparse compared to the 6th. It’s posh, with prices to match, but the tranquility is a fair trade.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
Musée Maillol, an Artistic Treasure

Musée Maillol

© 2025 James Christopher Knight

In the 7th arrondissement, the MusĂ©e Maillol is a quiet treasure I stumbled upon by accident. Housed in an 18th-century mansion, this small museum was once home to the La Roulotte cabaret in the early 1900s, where artists like Picasso and Modigliani sipped absinthe and swapped ideas. Now, it’s dedicated to Aristide Maillol, a 20th-century sculptor whose bronze and marble nudes fill the space with serene beauty.

They’re currently hosting Robert Doisneau: Instants DonnĂ©s. Running from April 17 to October 12, 2025, it features over 400 photographs. Doisneau, one of my favorite Paris photographers, captures a poetic realism, blending dream and reality with a tender gaze.

It’s intimate here—no MusĂ©e d’Orsay crowds. And you can grab a coffee at the basement cafĂ© after exploring. Entry is 16 euros, open daily, 10:30 AM to 6:30 PM—Wednesdays until 10:00 PM. In the posh, quiet 7th, it’s a perfect retreat for art lovers.

A PEEK INTO HISTORY
Fontaine de Mars and Napoleon’s Vision

© 2025 James Christopher Knight

At the corner of Rue Saint-Dominique and Rue de l’Exposition in the 7th arrondissement, the Fontaine de Mars may catch your eye while wandering near the Eiffel Tower.

Built between 1806 and 1809 under Napoleon I, this neoclassical fountain was designed by engineer François-Jean Bralle to bring fresh water to the Gros-Caillou neighborhood. Part of Napoleon’s push to modernize Paris, it drew water from the Ourcq River, a cleaner source, to serve locals.

The fountain’s elegant basin and sculpted reliefs have stood the test of time, even surviving the Great Flood of 1910, when the Seine rose over 8 meters, submerging much of Paris.

Right next to it, La Fontaine de Mars, a charming bistro since 1908, draws diners with its classic French fare—I haven’t been, but reviews praise its food and cozy vibe.

While it may not be a headline destination, the fountain is well worth a visit if you’re nearby—one of those hidden gems I love about Paris, where fascinating history hides in plain sight.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Charlotte Cardin - Les Échardes

I’m excited to introduce you to Charlotte Cardin, a talented singer-songwriter from Montreal, whose song Les Échardes has captured my heart with her beautiful voice that I find incredibly moving. There’s a subtlety and sensitivity to her vocals that I absolutely love.

Cardin first gained attention as a finalist on Quebec’s La Voix in 2013 before carving her own path in the music world. Les Échardes, released in 2016 as part of her debut album Big Boy, showcases her ability to blend pop and soul with raw emotion, earning her critical acclaim and a growing international following.

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