Our Week in Paris - We Fled The City

After a refreshing holiday in the US, we’re back in Paris, welcomed by bright sunshine and warm, summer-like days. We’re excited for our Paris photography workshop next week, followed by a few upcoming tours. It’s always exciting to share the charm, history, and hidden gems of this incredible city with visitors from near and far!

Linking You to Paris

➡️ Paris in May: Things to Do, Weather, Culture, Sports & More: This HiP Paris guide to May in Paris highlights spring events like Fête du Pain, Paris Beer Festival, and La Nuit des Musées, plus holidays like Labor Day and Victory Day. It suggests picnics, Musée Rodin workshops, and jazz festivals for first-timers, families, and art enthusiasts.

➡️ The best films set in Paris, from A Bout de Souffle to Mrs Harris Goes to Paris: This House & Garden article lists the best films set in Paris, showcasing the city’s diverse cinematic portrayals through classics like An American in Paris, Breathless, and Amélie, to modern gems like Paris, 13th District.

➡️ The best restaurants in Paris to try in 2025: This House & Garden article lists Paris’s top restaurants for 2025, from Bistrot Paul Bert’s classic steak frites to Parcelles’ innovative French fare, with tipping tips and notes on August closures. It highlights diverse spots like family-friendly Le Relais de l’Entrecôte, chic Le Voltaire, and hidden Amagat for tapas.

➡️ Here's how to get cheap last-minute flights according to the experts: This Condé Nast Traveller article shares expert tips for cheap last-minute flights, including using air miles, checking airline sales, staying flexible with dates and destinations via Skyscanner’s ‘Everywhere’ tool, setting KAYAK price alerts, and booking discounted charter flights with airlines like TUI.

VISITING PARIS
The 9th arrondissement

Our arrondissement series continues—this week, we’re spotlighting the 9th! Want to revisit our journeys through the 1st to 8th? They’re all waiting for you at TheParisLoveLetter.com, ready to inspire your next Parisian escape.

The 9th arrondissement, often called Opéra, is a district I hold close to my heart, having lived there for a time. It’s a bustling hub on the Right Bank, alive with locals and the hum of a business district, yet it keeps that classic Parisian feel—lived-in and real, unlike the museum-like polish of the 7th or 8th.

While living there, I appreciated its proximity to the rest of the city; everything felt within reach. That said, I felt the 9th lacked green space, and it was less ideal for having a dog. Still, I couldn’t help but love the energy and vibe, a perfect mix of history and everyday life. From the grandeur of the Palais Garnier to the charm of Rue des Martyrs, the 9th feels both iconic and intimate.

History and Main Sights

The 9th arrondissement blossomed in the 19th century under Haussmann’s grand redesign, its boulevards and ornate buildings reflecting Paris’s golden age. The Palais Garnier, completed in 1875, is its shining star, a Napoleon III-era opera house with chandeliers and frescoes that dazzle. Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, both late 19th-century department stores, are shopping landmarks with Belle Époque flair; I prefer the rooftop view from Printemps, where you can see classic Parisian rooftops with the Eiffel Tower in the background.

The Grévin Museum brings history to life with wax figures of everyone from Napoleon to modern celebrities, while the Musée de la Vie Romantique, in a 19th-century mansion, explores the Romantic era with works tied to George Sand. The Sainte-Trinité Church, built in 1867, blends eclectic styles, and the covered passages like Passage Jouffroy and Passage Verdeau are time capsules of Paris’s past, filled with quirky shops and cafés.

Art and Culture

The 9th has a rich cultural pulse, mixing historic and modern vibes. The Musée National Gustave Moreau displays the artist’s dreamy Symbolist paintings in his former home, a quiet, immersive escape. The district’s theaters are iconic: the Folies Bergère, opened in 1869, has hosted legends like Josephine Baker, while the Théâtre de la Porte Saint-Martin offers everything from classic plays to avant-garde shows.

The South of Pigalle area adds a contemporary edge. Street art splashes across walls. It’s grittier than the Opéra area but brimming with life, making the 9th an arrondissement of diverse experiences. For those working from Paris, the WeWork location at 33 Rue La Fayette has a stunning rooftop terrace view—perfect for a break with a cityscape backdrop.

Food and Hidden Gems

Dining in the 9th offers variety and warmth. For classic French fare, Au Petit Riche is a favorite I’ve written about before. Bouillon 47 elevates French cuisine with fresh, seasonal plates. Om Shiva is my go-to for Indian food. Rue des Martyrs is my personal highlight—I used to visit often when I lived nearby. This street is a food lover’s dream, with cafés, a cheese shop, and one of my favorite bakeries, Ernest & Valentin, where the croissants are perfection. For coffee, you can’t go wrong with KB Coffee at the top of the street, where you get a glimpse of Sacré-Cœur between the buildings.

Hidden gems add to the 9th’s charm. The Passage des Panoramas, one of Paris’s oldest covered passages, is a maze of vintage shops and tiny cafés—a great spot for a coffee break. The Musée de la Vie Romantique, with its rose-filled garden, feels like a secret retreat. Square d’Orléans, a private courtyard off Rue Taitbout, is a literary haven where George Sand once lingered—perfect for a quiet moment.

Where to Stay

The 9th has options for every budget, all well-connected by metro lines 3, 7, 8, and 9 (stops like Opéra or Cadet). Budget travelers will like ibis Styles Paris Cadet Lafayette, with cozy rooms and a free breakfast buffet for around 100–150 euros a night. Hotel Touraine Opéra is a mid-range pick with modern amenities like Wi-Fi and a bar, and rates around 150–250 euros. For luxury, the InterContinental Paris – Le Grand is a historic gem with elegant rooms and top-notch service, starting at 400–600 euros.

The 9th’s accessibility and charm make it a great base. It’s less touristy than the 8th, but you’re just a metro ride from anywhere in Paris. The 9th feels alive, a district that’s both timeless and grounded in everyday Parisian life.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
Passage Jouffroy’s Vintage Charm

Located at 10-12 Boulevard Montmartre in the 9th arrondissement, Passage Jouffroy is a nostalgic treasure that holds a special place in my heart. A few years ago, our friend the Mystery Parisian introduced me to the incredible toy store inside this passage, La Boite à Joujoux, when my young lion was just a baby. Since then, Passage Jouffroy has become one of my favorite covered passages in Paris, a quiet retreat from the 9th’s bustle.

Built in 1847, it’s one of the city’s earliest passages, with a glass ceiling and ironwork casting a warm, golden light over the tiled floor. I also love browsing the vintage photos and posters at Galerie Portfolio, where I can lose myself in black-and-white Parisian street scenes, old theater prints, and faded posters of 1920s cabaret shows. Small cafés line the passage, perfect for a quick espresso while soaking in the 19th-century ambiance.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Barbara Pravi - Le jour se lève

“Le jour se lève” is the follow-up to Barbara Pravi’s Eurovision hit “Voilà” and forms the second part of a three-song series that will finish with “L’homme et l’oiseau.” Co-written with Vincha and Jérémie Arcache, the track leans on a clean piano line and Pravi’s characteristically sensitive voice—two details that really stand out for me.

The lyrics describe how love can clear away doubt as a new day begins, echoing the title’s meaning (“The day is rising”). Worth a spin if you like intimate, piano-driven French pop.

Discover More with Paris Love Affair

If you're enjoying The Paris Love Letter, there's so much more to explore! Dive deeper into the Parisian experience with our curated offerings:

• Join Our Paris Tours: Experience the magic of Paris firsthand with our intimate tours, where we uncover the city's hidden gems and share the stories behind its iconic landmarks. Click Here.
  
  

• Paris Photo Daily Newsletter: For those who can't get enough of Paris, subscribe to our other newsletter, Paris Photo Daily, for a daily dose of stunning photography, from vintage classics to modern cityscapes and interesting stories. Click Here.
  

• Paris Photography Workshop: Take your photography to the next level with our exclusive Paris workshop this May, co-hosted with the talented Zaman. Together, we’ll explore the city’s most photogenic spots while sharing tips and techniques to help you capture Paris at its best. Click Here
  
  

• Visit Our Print Shop: Bring a piece of Paris into your home with our exclusive prints, perfect for adding a touch of elegance to any space. Click Here.
  
  

• Connect with Us on Social Media: Follow us on Facebook and Instagram for the latest updates, behind-the-scenes glimpses, and more Parisian inspiration.
  

We love sharing our passion for Paris with you and hope these resources enrich your journey with us. Merci, for being part of our community!