Our Week in Paris

Bonjour, friends!

What a whirlwind of a week it’s been since returning from vacation. Jumping right back into the rhythm of Paris, I’ve been busy leading tours through the city and co-hosting a photography workshop that brought together some truly talented photographers.

While it was a packed schedule, it’s been wonderful. From guiding photographers to some of Paris’ most picturesque spots to sharing the city’s rich history and hidden gems with my tour guests, it’s a reminder of why I love what I do.

There’s something magical about seeing Paris through fresh eyes, whether it’s the awe of a first-time visitor or the excitement of a photographer capturing its beauty.

Linking You to Paris

➡️ 25 of the best things to do in Paris: This Times article lists 25 top things to do in Paris, blending classic and unique experiences, such as exploring medieval Île de la Cité, skippering a boat on Bassin de la Villette, and mastering croissant-making.

➡️ A Guide to Tipping in Paris: This Condé Nast Traveler article is a decent reference for tipping in Paris, covering restaurants, bars, hotels, and taxi services.

➡️ Interactive map shows you which bars and terraces in Paris are in full sun: Time Out introduces Sunseekr, an interactive map that shows which Paris bars and cafés are sunny in real time, accounting for the sun’s position and building shadows.

➡️ 12 Hidden Gems in Paris You Won't Find in Guidebooks: This Travel + Leisure article, written by a long-time Paris resident, lists 12 under-the-radar spots in the city, including Plume, a chic neighborhood bistro in the 7th arrondissement, Shinya Pain Montmartre’s sourdough bakery in Montmartre, and the tranquil Jardin du Palais Royal.

VISITNG PARIS
The 11th arrondissement

As our arrondissement series continues, we’re spotlighting the 11th this week! Want to revisit our journeys through the 1st to 10th? They’re all waiting for you at TheParisLoveLetter.com, ready to inspire your next Parisian escape.

The 11th arrondissement is where Paris feels alive and unfiltered. Situated on the Right Bank, it’s a melting pot of history, creativity, restaurants, and local energy that I know well, having had three different apartments here over the years. I’ve spent countless evenings wandering its streets, from the buzzing nightlife of Oberkampf to the quieter corners. Boulevard Voltaire, a thoroughfare that bisects the arrondissement, hums with activity, while the underground stretch of Canal Saint-Martin—running beneath the 11th—creates green spaces above, with parks, playgrounds, pétanque courts, and gardens. It’s a district where the past meets a modern, artsy vibe, making it a favorite for an authentic Parisian experience.

History and Main Sights

The 11th arrondissement has a fascinating past, marked by significant historical events. Place de la Bastille, shared with the 4th and 12th arrondissements, marks the spot where the fortress was stormed in 1789, sparking the French Revolution. The July Column honors the 1830 Revolution. Place de la République, partly shared with the 10th and 3rd arrondissements, is a hub for protests and community events, while Place de la Nation, with its grand fountain unveiled in 1870, marks the district’s eastern edge. These three landmarks mark three of the four corners of the arrondissement.

Place de la République

Place de la République is a massive crossroads where history and modern life collide. Originally laid out in the 17th century as Place du Château-d’Eau, it was redesigned by Haussmann in the 1850s and 1860s to create a grand public square.

The Monument to the Republic, a bronze statue unveiled in 1883, honors the Third Republic and stands as a symbol of liberty. Today, the square is a lively meeting place for demonstrations, often hosting protests on social and political issues, from climate change to labor rights. It’s also a community hub—kids play in the open spaces, teens gather at the skateboarding park, and street performers add to the buzz. With cafés and shops lining its edges, it’s a snapshot of local Parisian life.

Art and Cultural Scene

The 11th is a cultural powerhouse, blending historic venues with cutting-edge creativity. The Atelier des Lumières, a digital art museum opened in 2018, transforms classic and contemporary works into immersive experiences using light and sound projections. Imagine Van Gogh’s starry skies enveloping the room. It’s a must-visit for art lovers seeking something innovative.

The 11th’s nightlife is legendary, particularly in Oberkampf, where Le Nouveau Casino offers an intimate setting for indie rock and electronic nights, drawing a mix of locals and visitors with its eclectic lineup. Near Bastille, Café de la Danse is a gem for live music, hosting everything from indie bands to world music in a cozy space since 1992, while Le Badaboum adds to the scene with its mix of live concerts and DJ, from electronic beats to pop. Smaller venues, like rock bars and indie clubs, dot the district, especially along Rue Oberkampf.

One of my favorite spots in the 11th is Église Saint-Ambroise, a neo-Gothic gem from the 1860s with stunning stained glass and twin towers. It’s my favorite church in Paris. Across the street, a lovely park, Truillot Garden, offers a quiet space to take it all in. Riding home from the Lion’s school, he always yells from the back of the bike, “Papa, la belle Iglese,” his sweet way of saying “the beautiful church!”

Food and Hidden Gems

Bistrot Paul Bert serves classic French dishes in a warm, traditional setting, while Paris-Féni, a favorite for “healthy” Indian cuisine, serves clean, flavorful meals—I love their biryanis, and next door, Chambelland Oberkampf is my go-to bakery for gluten-free pastries and bread. For a unique experience, Moonshiner is a speakeasy hidden behind the walk-in refrigerator of a pizza shop, serving creative cocktails in a 1920s Prohibition-era atmosphere. For stunning views, Le Perchoir is a rooftop bar where you can sip cocktails while gazing at landmarks like the Sacré-Cœur—it’s a perfect spot for a sunset drink.

Rue de la Roquette is a personal favorite for finding small cafés—Café des Anges, which feels like the estranged child of a New York diner and a Paris café, has a low-key vibe I adore, and I’ve written about it before (here), while Pause Café is another local favorite for its laid-back charm. Near Square Maurice-Gardette, Beens on Fire is my go-to coffee spot in the area. I like to sit on a bench in the park after grabbing a cup. It has a great playground for kids, but sitting and looking at nature alongside the beautiful Parisian architecture that surrounds the park is a nice way to pass some time. The Marché Bastille, held on Thursdays and Sundays, offers fresh produce and local delicacies like crêpes and oysters.

For those wanting to explore a more local Paris, I recommend a lovely walk starting at Bastille, following the canal path from the 11th into and through the 10th. Just after entering the 10th, you’ll see the canal above ground again. It’s a beautiful way to see the city’s quieter side, passing by locals enjoying the canal’s banks and parks. For another hidden gem, Square de la Roquette near Père Lachaise is a lovely park, a nice place to meet friends or have a picnic with its benches and greenery.

Where to Stay

The 11th offers diverse accommodations, all well-connected by metro lines 3, 5, 9, and 11 (stops like Bastille, République, and Oberkampf). Hôtel Fabric, set in a former textile factory, provides stylish rooms with industrial-chic decor, and rates around 150–250 euros a night. Mama Shelter Paris Est, known for its trendy design and rooftop bar, is perfect for nightlife lovers, with rates of 120–200 euros. If you’re looking for a more budget-friendly hotel, I think one of the best value hotels in the area is the ibis Paris Bastille Opéra 11ème.

The 11th’s accessibility and vibrant character make it a fantastic base. It’s less touristy than the arrondissements along the river, but central enough for easy exploration. Whether you’re here for a weekend or a month, the 11th delivers a slice of Paris that’s both historic and unmistakably alive.

RANDOM FUN STUFF
Beekeepers at Palais Garnier: A Sweet Souvenir

While exploring the 9th arrondissement, a visit to the Palais Garnier is a must—its opulent interiors, from the grand staircase to the Chagall-painted ceiling, are always worth the trip. But beyond the stunning architecture, there’s a unique souvenir I recently took home: honey from the bees kept on the opera house’s roof. Since 1982, beekeepers have tended hives up there, and the bees forage in nearby parks, creating a light, floral honey with hints of chestnut and lime. I bought my first jar on a recent visit, and it’s one of the coolest souvenirs I’ve found in Paris—a true taste of the city’s urban magic.

If you’re visiting, you’ll need to ask for the "Miel de l’Opéra" in the gift shop, as they don’t keep it on the floor anymore—apparently, it was being stolen! You can also find it in their online bookshop here. It’s a sweet memento of your visit to this iconic landmark.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Indila - Parle à ta tête

This week’s song is "Parle à ta tête" by Indila, a French legend with one of the most powerful voices in French music. Released in 2019 as part of her album Mini World’s deluxe edition, this track blends pop with world music influences, showcasing Indila’s commanding vocals.

The highly produced music video is a visual treat, featuring familiar scenes from Paris that capture the city’s magic. Give it a listen!

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