Our Week in Paris

Bonjour, friends!

This past week, we headed to Jardin d’Acclimatation, a charming amusement park in the lush Bois de Boulogne, just west of Paris near the Louis Vuitton Foundation. This gem is perfect for visitors with kids craving amusement park fun.

Dating back to 1860, the park blends historic charm with modern thrills, offering everything from gentle rides for little ones to roller coasters for adults. Its clean, well-maintained grounds, shaded by towering trees, create a natural yet thrilling atmosphere.

Our little Lion had a blast, especially on his first roller coaster, a pint-sized ride with cars shaped like mice, perfect for young thrill-seekers. We spent half a day zipping through rides and letting him play with other kids at the massive playground.

We ended the day at La Terrasse, an outdoor restaurant in the park, for a meal with the stunning Louis Vuitton Foundation glimmering in the background.

Pair the park with a visit to the Foundation’s Frank Gehry-designed architecture for a full day of family-friendly exploration.

On a whim, I set out to climb the stairs of the Eiffel Tower. I’ve always wished you could hike all the way to the very top. It would feel like a true summit. But for now, the climb ends at the second level, after 674 steps. Still, there’s something satisfying about earning those panoramic views with a bit of morning exercise.

Linking You to Paris

➡️ The top 12 prettiest rooftop bars in Paris: This Condé Nast Traveller article lists the top 12 prettiest rooftop bars in Paris for 2025, offering stunning views and unique vibes.

➡️ Natalie Portman reveals why she prefers living in Paris with her kids over Los Angeles: This New York Post article reports that Natalie Portman, who moved to Paris in 2014, prefers raising her children there over Los Angeles. Thanks for sharing this one with me, Heather!

➡️ 22 Traditional French Recipes, From Crusty Baguette to Gooey Onion Soup:
This Food & Wine article presents 22 traditional French recipes, showcasing dishes like coq au vin blanc, a white wine-braised chicken stew, smoked salmon Lyonnaise salad with crispy bacon and croutons, and poulet en croûte.

➡️ The Best Croissants in Paris 2025: This HiP Paris article lists the best croissants in Paris for 2025, spotlighting winners from the 24th annual Meilleur Croissant au Beurre du Grand Paris competition.

VISITNG PARIS
The 12th arrondissement

Our arrondissement series continues, and this week, we’re exploring the 12th! Want to revisit our journeys through the 1st to 11th? They’re all waiting for you at TheParisLoveLetter.com, ready to inspire your next Parisian escape.

The 12th arrondissement is one of Paris’s best-kept secrets. I fell in love with it during the four months I lived here. At 16.3 square kilometers—the fifth-largest in the city—it stretches from the Seine near Bastille to Bois de Vincennes in the east. I preferred living on the eastern side of the 12th, fairly close to central Paris, but with the benefits of a quieter neighborhood.

I appreciated its proximity to Place de la Bastille, just a short walk away, and to the 4th arrondissement, a reasonable stroll from my previous apartment to the Seine banks near Île Saint-Louis, where the river feels more intimate and less crowded.

History and Main Sights

The 12th’s history stretches back to the Middle Ages, when it was a rural faubourg outside Paris’s walls. Before its incorporation into the city in 1860 during Haussmann’s renovations, the area, particularly around Faubourg Saint-Antoine, was a hub for furniture making.

Starting in the 17th century, skilled cabinetmakers, carpenters, and upholsterers set up workshops here, drawn by royal privileges that made it a tax-free zone for artisans. Many crafted high-quality furniture for the French court, a legacy that lives on in the area’s artisan shops and galleries.

Gare de Lyon, a Beaux-Arts structure from 1900, is one of Europe’s busiest train stations, handling millions annually. The Coulée Verte René-Dumont, a 4.7 km elevated park built on a disused railway viaduct, stretches from Place de la Bastille to Bois de Vincennes, Paris’s largest park, perfect for cycling or picnics.

Place de la Bastille, shared with the 4th and 11th arrondissements, marks the 1789 French Revolution’s spark, its July Column honoring the 1830 Revolution.

Art and Cultural Scene

The 12th’s cultural scene is quieter than its neighbors but offers unique spots. The Opéra Bastille, not to be confused with its more famous relative, the Palais Garnier in the 9th, is a modern opera house opened in 1989, hosting world-class performances.

The Cinémathèque Française, a haven for film lovers, offers screenings, exhibitions, and a museum of cinematic history in a Frank Gehry-designed building.

Bercy Village, a former 19th-century wine storage hub turned open-air shopping and cultural center, hosts art installations, live music, and seasonal events in its cobblestone lanes—a hidden gem for visitors seeking a quieter, more local atmosphere away from touristy spots.

The Musée des Arts Forains, a carnival museum, showcases vintage fairground rides and games, open for guided tours by reservation. It’s a lot of fun! I wrote about it HERE.

Food and Hidden Gems

For me, the 12th’s food scene centers around Place d’Aligre, where the Marché d’Aligre, my favorite market in Paris, is fully alive on Sundays when we used to go most often. Both the indoor and outdoor markets offer fresh produce, cheese, wine, meats, and specialty items.

Just steps away, Le Baron Rouge, a wine bar since 1914, serves wine straight from barrels, which makes it a unique and fun experience, paired with charcuterie or cheese.

We also used to frequent Le Botaniste for their terrace on lovely weather days. Inside Gare de Lyon, Le Train Bleu, a famous restaurant opened in 1901, offers traditional French cuisine in a historic setting with ornate decor. Ground Control is a unique space with several vendors serving a variety of fare.

For a green escape, the Coulée Verte René-Dumont is one of my favorite places in Paris. This elevated park, stretching from Bastille to Bois de Vincennes, is good for a stroll or picnic, with pathways offering a different view of the city.

Parc de Bercy, a giant park near the Seine, has gardens, a small vineyard, and a skate park, making it a relaxing spot for a walk or a quiet afternoon.

Rue Crémieux, a short cobblestone street near Gare de Lyon, is a hidden gem with its pastel-colored facades—pinks, blues, and greens—that make it a favorite for photos. Built in 1865, it’s a residential street, so I’d visit quietly to respect the locals.

For another hidden gem, Square Trousseau near Place d’Aligre is a small park with benches and greenery, a good spot to meet friends or relax.

Where to Stay

The 12th offers a range of accommodations, connected by metro lines 1, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 14 (stops like Gare de Lyon, Bastille). ibis Styles Paris Gare de Lyon provides modern rooms for 100–150 euros a night. Citizen M’s Paris Gare de Lyon hotel is a hip modern hotel with rooms for 150–250 euros.

The 12th’s accessibility and local vibe make it a practical base, less touristy than central areas but close to Paris’ heart.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
Coulée Verte’s Elevated Walk

If you’re looking for a beautiful walk in Paris that’s off the beaten path with fantastic elevated views of local neighborhoods, this is your spot!

It was opened in 1993 and was built on a disused 19th-century railway viaduct stretching from Place de la Bastille to Bois de Vincennes. You can find its main entrance on Avenue Daumesnil, just steps from the Bastille metro station—look for the stairs near the opera house.

This walk offers a unique view of the city, with rose trellises, small gardens, and glimpses of Parisian rooftops along the way. You’ll pass through tunnels and over bridges, seeing both historic and modern buildings from a new angle. I often take this route to Bois de Vincennes, enjoying the mix of nature and urban life.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Les Yeux Noirs | Django Reinhardt | Pomplamoose ft. The Vignes Rooftop Revival

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