Our Week in Paris

Bonjour, friends!

We slipped away to the countryside for a couple of days this week—a much-needed breath of fresh air. Every time I hop on a train, I’m reminded how wonderfully easy the French rail system makes it to escape the city for a change of scenery. There’s nothing quite like long walks among the fields and quiet villages to reset the senses.

Back in Paris, it was a busy week of guiding visitors around the city. One group in particular had a passion for chocolate, so naturally, we made a stop at À la Mère de Famille—the oldest chocolatier in Paris and a true institution (you’ll spot it in the images below).

Recently, I took our little Lion on a canal/river cruise—a gentle adventure through hidden tunnels and open water. If you’re looking for a different perspective on the city, I highly recommend a boat cruise.

If you want to see the boat cruise we experienced with Canauxrama, you can visit their listing on Viator HERE. Alternatively, you can see our other recommended river cruises HERE.

Here’s a video I uploaded to YouTube of our adventure along Canal Saint Martin and the Seine River:

Linking You to Paris

➡️ The best cheap hotels in Paris for a brilliant budget stay: This Time Out Paris article highlights the best budget hotels in Paris under €150 per night, selected by local editors for style and value.

➡️ Ten art deco structures that encapsulate the 1925 Paris Exposition: This Dezeen article features ten standout Art Deco structures from the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, which launched the Art Deco movement.

➡️ Ina Garten’s Favorite Spots to Wine, Dine, and Shop in Paris: This AFAR article shares Ina Garten’s favorite Paris spots for dining and shopping, featuring gems like Pierre Hermé’s inventive macarons and Poilâne’s renowned sourdough.

➡️ For Paris enthusiasts and food lovers, David Lebovitz’s website, crafted by a Paris-based cookbook author and pastry chef, offers a delightful mix of sweet and savory recipes alongside witty Paris travel tips and stories.

VISITING PARIS
The 13th arrondissement

Our arrondissement series continues—this week, we’re visiting the 13th! Want to revisit our journeys through the 1st to 12th? They’re all waiting for you at TheParisLoveLetter.com, ready to inspire your next Parisian escape.

The 13th arrondissement, one of Paris’s lesser-known districts, is situated on the Left Bank with a mix of history, culture, and modern life. I’ve spent time wandering its streets, drawn to the energy of the Quartier Asiatique and the village-like Butte-aux-Cailles.

History and Main Sights

The 13th’s history is rooted in its industrial past along the Bièvre River, once a hub for tanning and dyeing before it was covered in the 20th century. Incorporated into Paris in 1860 during Haussmann’s renovations, it evolved from a working-class area to a cosmopolitan hub with a significant Asian community, particularly since the 1970s when Vietnamese, Chinese, Laotian, and Cambodian immigrants settled here.

Place d’Italie, a central landmark often used as a reference point for the arrondissement, started as Place de la Barrière d’Italie in 1760, part of a tax barrier around Paris. Haussmann expanded it in the 1860s to connect the southern arrondissements, naming it for the road to Italy via Porte d’Italie. Today, it’s a busy roundabout with a metro station and the Italie 2 mall.

The Manufacture des Gobelins, founded in 1662 by Louis XIV, still produces tapestries and offers guided tours. The Bibliothèque Nationale de France (François Mitterrand site), opened in 1996, has four glass towers resembling open books, housing France’s literary treasures. The Quartier Asiatique, centered around Avenue d’Ivry and Boulevard Masséna, has Asian markets and restaurants, while Butte-aux-Cailles, a hilly neighborhood, feels like a small village with cobblestone streets and quaint houses.

Art and Cultural Scene

The 13th’s cultural scene blends tradition with innovation. Les Frigos, a former refrigeration station turned art collective, houses artist studios and hosts exhibitions, with an open day each year to explore its creative spaces. Quai de la Photo, one of my favorite spots, is a floating photography gallery at Port de la Gare, opened in 2023. It showcases contemporary exhibitions on a 1,000-square-meter barge, with a café on board for a drink by the Seine.

For street art, Galerie Itinerrance displays works by artists like Banksy and Shepard Fairey, often organizing outdoor mural projects that add color to the district. The Quartier Asiatique hosts cultural events like the Lunar New Year, reflecting its diverse community. Recent street art by Portuguese artist Bordalo II, known for his vibrant murals, adds a contemporary edge to the district’s streets, particularly around Place d’Italie.

Here’s a short video I made of a visit to Quai de la Photo:

Food and Hidden Gems

The 13th’s food scene is a highlight, especially in the Quartier Asiatique, Paris’s largest Chinatown, where Tang Frères and Paristore offer Asian groceries. People I know shop here for things like tofu and other specialty items, from rice noodles to sauces.

You’ll also find restaurants serving Vietnamese pho, Chinese dim sum, and my favorite sandwich, a banh mi, at Coupi Bar. Along the Seine, riverside cafés, like Café Oz, an Australian rooftop bar, and Bateau El Alamein, a bar on a boat with concerts, offer a relaxed spot to sip a drink with river views, often on floating barges—a lively scene in summer.

For a hidden gem, the Cité Florale is a must—its flower-named streets, like Rue des Glycines and Rue des Orchidées, are lined with colorful houses and gardens, offering a peaceful escape. La Petite Alsace, with its half-timbered houses, feels like a trip to another region, while Villa Daviel’s quiet gardens and quaint architecture are good for a stroll.

One of my favorite spots in the 13th is Piscine Joséphine Baker, a floating swimming pool on the Seine, opened in 2006 and named after the iconic entertainer Joséphine Baker. It’s a refreshing break near the Bibliothèque Nationale.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
Strolling Along Port de la Gare

When the weather is nice, I recommend that visitors to the 13th stroll along Port de la Gare on the Seine. This waterfront stretch near the Bibliothèque Nationale de France is a spot I’d often visit, perfect for a walk, a drink, a meal, or even a swim! You can check out Café OZ Rooftop at Les Docks, a bar with Seine views for drinks or light meals.

I’ve stopped several times at La Paillote la Seine Paris for a casual drink with friends, enjoying its laid-back vibe by the river. Nearby, Petit Bain offers food on a cultural barge, while Quai de la Photo, a floating gallery, adds an artistic vibe to the riverside. You can also swim at Piscine Josephine Baker, a pool with river views.

These spots aren’t my top picks for Paris cuisine, but the environment makes a visit worthwhile. When I lived just over the river in the 12th, I’d wander here many evenings, watching boats pass by.

From Port de la Gare, you’re not far from Jardin des Plantes, a historic botanical garden in the 5th arrondissement, and Bercy Village in the 12th, a former wine hub turned cultural center—both worth a visit.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Françoise Hardy - Le temps de l'amour

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