Our Week in Paris

Bonjour, friends!

This week in Paris has been a mix of music, hosting guided tours, exploration, and café visits. A highlight was heading to Le Trianon, a new concert venue for me in the 18th arrondissement, to see a show with friends. It’s a wonderful spot with tons of historic charm, perfect for enjoying live music.

Before the concert, I stopped by Le Mansart in Pigalle for a drink with a friend, a popular local spot on a lively corner.

I spent a bit of time in Montmartre, an area I always enjoy for its charm. I stumbled into Chez Camille, a favorite tiny bar open since 1935. The owner loves 1950s/60s Americana, decorating with photos of Elvis and other singers. They even have Elvis Juice on tap, a great IPA for beer fans.

Here’s a short clip of the inside of Chez Camille, a mid-century American-themed bar in Montmartre.

Linking You to Paris

➡️ How to Spend 3 Days in Paris: This Travel: From Travel + Leisure - This article shares picturesque walks to souvenir shopping. A longtime Francophile shares her ideal three-day Paris itinerary.

➡️ Paris’s Best Restaurants—and What to Order There: From AFAR - Restaurants, brasseries, bistros, and bars line the streets of Paris. The only question is how many you can pack into one trip.

➡️ Everything you need to know about taking the Eurostar: From Lonely Planet - Here’s everything you need to know if you’re traveling on the Eurostar.

➡️ An Innocent Abroad in Mark Twain’s Paris: From The Atlantic - “My quest for a true literary experience resulted in choucroute, a surprise organ feast, an epiphany at the Louvre, existential dread, and a rowboat.”

VISITNG PARIS
The 13th arrondissement

As our arrondissement series continues, we’re visiting the 14th this week! Want to revisit the 1st to 13th? They’re all posted at TheParisLoveLetter.com, ready to help you plan your next Parisian escape.

The 14th arrondissement is a quieter district on Paris’s Left Bank, stretching from Montparnasse to the city’s southern edge. The 14th is a place with village-like charm, family-friendly parks, and a rich artistic history.

History and Main Sights

The 14th arrondissement’s history traces back to its rural roots as a faubourg, incorporated into Paris in 1860 during Haussmann’s renovations. Montparnasse became an artistic hub in the early 20th century, attracting figures like Picasso, Hemingway, and Sartre, who frequented its cafés.

The district’s name, l'Observatoire, comes from the Paris Observatory, founded in 1667, a key center for astronomy, open for guided tours by reservation. The Paris Catacombs hold over six million skeletons that were moved from old cemeteries in 1810. Montparnasse Cemetery is the resting place of Sartre, de Beauvoir, and Gainsbourg. Parc Montsouris, a park with a lake and playgrounds, is wonderful for picnics.

For a stunning view of the city, Montparnasse Tower has an observation deck on the 56th floor with 360-degree views of Paris, including the Eiffel Tower. While there are other great views in Paris, and I wouldn’t make the tower the reason to visit the 14th, it’s worth a stop if you’re in the area.

Art and Cultural Scene

The 14th’s cultural scene centers on Montparnasse. In the 1920s and 1930s, known as the "Années Folles," Montparnasse was a hub for artists and intellectuals. Painters like Pablo Picasso, Amedeo Modigliani, and Marc Chagall worked here, alongside writers like Ernest Hemingway, Jean-Paul Sartre, and Simone de Beauvoir, who gathered at cafés like Le Dôme and La Closerie des Lilas, on the border with the 6th, where Hemingway wrote parts of The Sun Also Rises. Le Select was another favorite, often hosting Sartre and de Beauvoir.

Today, Théâtre de la Gaîté Montparnasse offers plays and concerts. Nearby, Bobino is a historic music hall known for cabaret and live music, open most evenings. In June, the annual music festival, Fête de la Musique, on the 21st, brings live music to Parc Montsouris.

Food and Hidden Gems

The 14th’s food scene reflects its diverse, residential feel. For Vietnamese, Au Vieux Hanoi, near Alésia metro, serves dishes like Chay Bún with spring rolls. For French classics, Le Dôme is a historic brasserie where artists like Picasso and Modigliani once gathered, now known for seafood.

Parc Montsouris is a nice spot for picnics with its lake and playgrounds. Jardin Atlantique, atop Gare Montparnasse, provides a green escape with city views, accessible via the station. The Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris lets you explore international architecture and gardens, a quiet spot for a walk.

Where to Stay

The 14th offers accommodations for all budgets. Budget travelers can stay at ibis Styles Paris Montparnasse, with modern rooms for 100–150 euros a night. Hôtel des Saints-Pères, near Luxembourg Gardens in the 6th but close to the 14th, offers boutique rooms for 200–300 euros. For luxury, Pullman Paris Montparnasse, near Tour Montparnasse, has upscale rooms with views for 300–400 euros. Staying here gives you a local experience, close to central Paris but with a calmer feel.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
Rue des Thermopyles’ Village Charm

In the 14th arrondissement near Pernety metro station, Rue des Thermopyles is a narrow cobblestone street that feels like a hidden village in Paris. Unlike the taller Haussmannian buildings nearby, this 280-meter alley is lined with low houses, decorated with climbing plants, wisteria, and potted flowers, creating a peaceful, country-like escape. It’s a quiet spot often missed by tourists, perfect for a short stroll while exploring Montparnasse.

The street’s history dates back to 1859, when developer Alexandre Chauvelot opened it as a private passage, naming it after the ancient Greek Battle of Thermopylae in 480 BCE due to its narrowness.

Originally called Passage des Thermopyles, it became a public street in 1937 and opened to traffic in 1959, though it retains its pedestrian-friendly charm with large cobblestones. It’s a fantastic location for portrait shoots, but be mindful of the residents, as this area is residential.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Sam Sauvage - Les Gens Qui Dansent (j'adore)

Discover More with Paris Love Affair

• Join Our Paris Tours: Click Here.
  

• Paris Photo (almost) Daily Newsletter: Click Here.
  

• Visit Our Print Shop: Click Here.
  

• Connect with Us on Social Media: Follow us on Facebook and Instagram.
  

• Create a newsletter like mine with Beehiiv: Click Here.