Our Week in Paris

Bonjour, friends!

This week, I wandered through Gare de Lyon and found myself inside the legendary Le Train Bleu. I didn’t stop for a meal, but the interior alone is worth the visit for the ornate ceilings and nostalgia of old-world travel. The Lion has become a bit of a pétanque fanatic lately, so we’ve been pausing for quick games on our way home from school. And as always, there’s time for a café break or two.

Linking You to Paris

➡️ Paris Metro Travel Passes and Prices: I’m often asked about metro tickets in Paris, so here’s the official RATP guide to your options. The “easy” pass works well for most visitors. Paris is switching from paper tickets to a modern system this year. Just a heads up that the mobile phone option can be unreliable, according to some metro staff.

➡️ The 10 Paris Restaurants You Need to Visit Right Now: Food & Wine spotlights ten of Paris’s best restaurants, from classic bistros to creative newcomers. The list is a great starting point for discovering where to eat in Paris right now.

➡️ Travel guides, for all over the world: Condé Nast Traveler’s Destinations section is a gold mine of curated travel guides for cities and regions around the world. It covers everything from must-see spots and local food to where to stay, making it a great resource for anyone planning a trip or looking for inspiration.

➡️ Where to Eat in Saint-Germain-des-Prés: Bonjour Paris highlights two top spots to eat in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Le Christine offers creative tasting menus in a charming historic setting, while Colvert delivers modern bistro cuisine with a friendly vibe and great people-watching.

WALKING IN PARIS
Visiting The Passy Neighborhood

For this edition of Walking in Paris, I’m sharing a map from a recent stroll through Passy in the 16th arrondissement. The neighborhood is full of quiet, old-world charm, with plenty of green spaces and parks to explore. You’ll find a traditional market street and some wonderful cafés tucked among the historic buildings. Click the button below to see the route I walked.

If you’re interested in one of my semi-private walking tours or planning your own bespoke private experience, learn more about my tours by clicking the button below.

VISITING PARIS
The 16th arrondissement

Our arrondissement series continues, this week spotlighting the 16th! Want to revisit our journeys through the 1st to 15th? They’re all waiting for you at TheParisLoveLetter.com, ready to inspire your next Parisian escape.

The 16th arrondissement is one of Paris’s most upscale and residential districts, on the Right Bank with a mix of elegant architecture, green spaces, and cultural landmarks. I know several young families who live here and love it for the classic Parisian charm that comes without the crowds. The wide streets with wide sidewalks, a clean and safe environment, and a residential feel make it a lovely neighborhood for raising a family, though it’s a bit less exciting compared to busier neighborhoods to the east with more cafés and shops.

History and Main Sights

The 16th began as rural villages like Auteuil and Passy. It was incorporated into Paris in 1860 during Haussmann’s renovations. It grew into an affluent area with Haussmannian buildings and private mansions, home to embassies and diplomats.

Place du Trocadéro offers perhaps the most famous iconic views of the Eiffel Tower, often seen with the Jardins du Trocadéro below.

Bois de Boulogne, a vast 845-hectare park created by Napoleon III in 1852, is a wonderful feature of the 16th. Modeled after London’s Hyde Park, it offers a refreshing escape from the city’s crowds with lakes, gardens, and trails, all within reach by metro lines 1 and 2. Attractions include Jardin d’Acclimatation, a family-friendly amusement park, and Parc de Bagatelle, known for its rose garden. Roland Garros Stadium, also near Bois de Boulogne, is home to the French Open.

Art and Cultural Scene

The 16th’s cultural scene focuses on art and history. Fondation Louis Vuitton hosts contemporary exhibitions, from Basquiat to emerging artists, with concerts and events. Musée Marmottan Monet displays Impressionist masterpieces by Monet, Renoir, and Morisot, a must for art lovers.

The Palais de Chaillot’s Musée de l’Homme explores anthropology, while Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine covers French architectural history. Maison de Balzac offers literary insights with Balzac’s manuscripts. The Palais de Tokyo is a major contemporary art center with the Musée d’Art Moderne (east wing, free entry to permanent collections) and a west wing for temporary exhibitions. The Maison de la Radio et de la Musique hosts concerts and broadcasts.

Food and Hidden Gems

The 16th’s food scene ranges from upscale to local. Rue de Passy is a lively street for dining, with bistros like L’Astrance, a Michelin-starred spot for creative French cuisine. Café de l’Homme, in the Palais de Chaillot, offers French dishes with Eiffel Tower views. Marché d’Auteuil, open Wednesdays and Saturdays, provides fresh produce, cheeses, and flowers.

For a hidden gem, Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil, near Roland Garros, is a botanical garden with 19th-century greenhouses and exotic plants, with free entry. The Passy neighborhood has Art Nouveau buildings by Hector Guimard, like those on Rue La Fontaine, which are good for a quiet walk. Île aux Cygnes, a man-made island, offers a scenic path with a Statue of Liberty replica, accessible via Pont de Bir-Hakeim.

Where to Stay

The 16th offers accommodations for all budgets, connected by metro lines 1, 2, 6, 9, and 10 (stops like Passy, Trocadéro, Porte d’Auteuil). Hôtel Molitor Paris, near Bois de Boulogne, has modern rooms and charm. Hôtel de Passy Paris, in the Passy neighborhood, offers boutique charm. Le Royal Monceau - Raffles Paris, near the Champs-Élysées, provides luxury rooms. For budget travelers, Hôtel Gavarni, near Passy, has rooms for 80 to 150 euros. The 16th’s upscale vibe and metro access make it a practical base, close to central Paris but calmer.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
Passy Feels Like a Secret Village

Situated in the 16th arrondissement, Passy is a corner of Paris with quiet elegance. While crowds gather at the city’s big-name sights, Passy keeps its tranquil charm, inviting you to slow down and see Paris with fresh eyes.

A Stroll Through Passy

Wandering Passy, you’ll notice the calm right away. The avenues are lined with townhouses and shaded by old trees, perfect for a leisurely walk. It’s the kind of place where you can pause for a pastry, browse a family-run shop, and watch daily life unfold at a more relaxed pace.

Culture and Curiosities

The Musée Marmottan Monet, tucked inside a former hunting lodge, is home to the world’s largest collection of Monet paintings. Just up the road, the Maison de Balzac offers a peek into the life of the celebrated novelist, with manuscripts and mementos in his old home. Even the local cemetery tells stories. Here, you’ll find the resting places of Claude Debussy and Berthe Morisot, surrounded by peaceful greenery.

Flavors of the Neighborhood

The Marché Couvert de Passy brims with fresh produce, cheese, and pastries, perfect for a picnic or a taste of local life. Rue de l’Annonciation is where you’ll find bustling cafés and bistros serving everything from buttery croissants to seafood platters. For something special, La Causerie’s inventive French cuisine makes it a local favorite.

Green Spaces and Hidden Corners

When you need a breath of fresh air, Jardin du Ranelagh offers manicured lawns, playgrounds, and shady paths, a favorite with families and dog walkers. A little farther out, the vast Bois de Boulogne is the city’s green lung, ideal for a bike ride or an afternoon escape from the city noise.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Patrick Watson - Je te laisserai des mots

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