Our Week in Paris

Bonjour, friends!

We kicked off the week by celebrating our Lion’s last day of his first school year along the river, with drinks and light bites at Les Maquereaux Rive Droite. The Seine was alive with summer energy, and it felt like the perfect way to mark a milestone.

Later, we tried to catch the Robert Doisneau exhibition in the 7th, but the crowds made it tough to take it all in. I’ll head back soon for a proper visit. Wandering through the 7th and 6th after, we found ourselves enjoying the quiet charm of the Left Bank in the rain, when the city always seems to slow down just enough.

The Clinamen Exhibition

We visited the "clinamen" exhibition by Céleste Boursier-Mougenot at the Bourse de Commerce, and it was a memorable outing. This French artist, born in 1961 in Nice and with a background as a composer, creates immersive installations that blend sound and movement.

The piece features a large basin filled with water reflecting the sky through the museum’s dome, with white porcelain bowls drifting on gentle currents, clinking together to produce melodic, ever-changing sounds. Inspired by the Epicurean concept of "clinamen," the random swerve of atoms, it invites visitors to experience time and perception in a new way, turning sound into a living element.

Despite the reverberating chatter from other visitors, we found the exhibition meditative, a peaceful escape amid the noise. Our son was fascinated by the clinking bowls, watching them collide and create their own symphony. The rest of the museum was a treat too, with its contemporary spaces showcasing the Pinault Collection’s modern art.

The Bourse de Commerce has a fascinating history. Originally built in 1767 as a grain market, it was rebuilt in 1889 with its iconic dome by architect Henri Blondel and served as a stock exchange until 1998. In 2021, it was renovated by collector François Pinault and architect Tadao Ando into a contemporary art venue, preserving its circular structure while adding modern galleries.

We had a snack at the restaurant on top, enjoying wonderful coffee, tea, and a cookie with beautiful views of Saint-Eustache Church, Les Halles, and Pompidou. The environment felt a bit sterile for our preference, so we headed to Au Pied de Cochon nearby. It has classic brasserie charm, but we found it overpriced for the quality, with nothing particularly enticing on the menu. Overall, the exhibition is worth visiting for its unique sensory experience.

Linking You to Paris

➡️ You Can Swim in the Seine Again: The New York Times reports that, after a massive cleanup effort prompted by the Olympics, Parisians can now swim in the Seine for the first time in a century.

➡️ 100+ Prime Day Travel Deals on Editor-Recommended Gear: Condé Nast Traveler highlights top travel-related discounts and must-grab offers available during this year’s Prime Day shopping event.

➡️ A Local's Guide To Saint-Germain-Des-Prés: Forbes shares a local’s guide to Saint-Germain-des-Prés, spotlighting favorite spots to eat, shop, and relax from longtime resident Cécile Caillié.

VISITING PARIS
The 19th arrondissement

I've spent a lot of time in the 19th arrondissement, even though I've never lived there. Having called the 10th home, right on the border, I've often crossed over to enjoy parts of the 19th.

This Right Bank district has a local, multicultural feel that's less crowded than central Paris. We love bringing our son to La Villette for family outings, stopping along the canal for favorite food/drink spots on the way. And Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is probably my favorite park in all of Paris, with its dramatic landscapes and relaxing vibe.

History and Main Sights

The 19th’s history began as a rural area, incorporated into Paris in 1860 during Haussmann’s renovations. It grew into a working-class hub with a strong immigrant community, particularly from North Africa and Asia.

Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is a standout, with dramatic cliffs, a lake, and a temple offering city views, created in 1867 by Jean-Charles Alphand. Canal de l’Ourcq provides scenic paths for walking or biking, connecting to La Villette. Parc de la Villette, a cultural park, houses the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, Europe’s largest science museum, and the Géode, a spherical cinema.

Art and Cultural Scene

The 19th’s cultural scene is dynamic, centered around La Villette. Philharmonie de Paris is a modern concert hall hosting classical and contemporary music. Centquatre-Paris is a contemporary art space with exhibitions, performances, and workshops, a hub for local artists. Street art, including murals by Shepard Fairey, brightens areas like Rue de l’Ourcq. Le Zénith, a major concert venue, hosts international acts. The district’s multicultural vibe adds to its creative energy.

Food and Hidden Gems

The 19th’s food scene reflects its diverse community. Along Bassin de la Villette, restaurants offer fun environments when the weather is nice, perfect for enjoying the canal views. We like Le Pavillon des Canaux for the experience and view; the food we’ve had is okay, not exceptional, but fine. For a good beer and a view, Paname Brewing Company is a solid choice. Marché Secrétan provides fresh produce, cheeses, and flowers. For a hidden gem, Centquatre-Paris doubles as a cultural space with art installations and a café, perfect for a creative break. Rosa Bonheur is a lively spot for a drink and a small bite in Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Another fun spot for a drink, in a nice environment, is Le Pavillon Puebla.

Where to Stay

Ibis Paris La Villette provides budget-friendly rooms. Hôtel Crimée offers boutique charm with a local feel. Hôtel Mercure Paris 19 Philharmonie has modern rooms near La Villette. For budget travelers, St Christopher’s Inn Canal offers dorms and private rooms. The 19th’s residential vibe and metro access make it a practical base, located close to central Paris but with a calmer atmosphere.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Charles Aznavour - Et pourtant

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