Our Week in Paris (and beyond)

Bonjour, friends!

This week, we left the city behind to mark our son’s last days of school with a little family holiday in the countryside. We wandered along dusty country roads with our Lion and our dog, cooled off with swims in the lake, joined in the fun at a local village fair, and introduced the Lion to a summer classic from our childhood - the yard sprinkler.

Stepping away from Paris for a bit, we found a different kind of magic in the slower pace and simple pleasures of rural life.

For all my Emily in Paris fans, here’s a little treat - Gabriel’s restaurant. It’s a fun stop on one of my tour routes, and this week I snapped a photo of it. Whether you’re a fan of the show or love discovering iconic Paris spots, this square, Place de l’Estrapade, is a lovely place to visit regardless of your interest in the show.

Linking You to Paris

➡️ The best things to do in Paris in 2025: TimeOut highlights the best things to do in Paris for 2025, from visiting the newly reopened Grand Palais and swimming in the Seine, to enjoying open-air cinema at Parc de la Villette and exploring iconic spots like the Eiffel Tower and Père-Lachaise Cemetery.

➡️ The most inspiring art exhibitions in Paris for July 2025: CN Traveller rounds up the best exhibitions in Paris this season, featuring standout art, photography, and cultural shows across the city’s top museums and galleries.

➡️ You Can Now Swim in Paris’s Famous River for the First Time in 100 Years—but Should You?: AFAR reports that swimming is now officially allowed in the Seine River in Paris for the first time in decades, thanks to a major cleanup ahead of the Olympics, with new designated spots opening for locals and visitors.

➡️ 23 of the best boutique hotels in Paris: The Times features the best boutique hotels in Paris, highlighting stylish stays known for their unique design, personalized service, and prime locations across the city.

VISITING PARIS
The 20th arrondissement

We’ve reached the end of our arrondissement series, and what a journey it’s been! The 20th arrondissement marks our final stop. It’s a district on Paris’s Right Bank that blends multicultural energy with historic charm.

While living in Ménilmontant for a few months, I enjoyed exploring its neighborhoods, from the iconic Père Lachaise Cemetery to the scenic Parc de Belleville. It’s less touristy than central areas, offering an authentic experience that feels off the beaten path. Whether you’re wandering the streets of Ménilmontant, dining at a local bistro, or discovering a hidden park, the 20th has a unique appeal worth visiting.

History and Main Sights

The 20th’s history began as rural villages like Ménilmontant and Belleville, incorporated into Paris in 1860 during Haussmann’s renovations. It evolved into a working-class hub, playing a pivotal role in the 1871 Paris Commune uprising, where residents resisted government forces, thereby shaping its rebellious spirit.

Later, it became a haven for immigrants, particularly from Eastern Europe, North Africa, and Asia, adding to its cultural diversity. Père Lachaise Cemetery, with graves of figures like Edith Piaf, Oscar Wilde, and Jim Morrison, is the most visited site in the 20th. Parc de Belleville offers city views from its terraced gardens, created in 1988. The winding streets of Ménilmontant and Belleville reflect the district’s multicultural past, with murals and historic buildings adding character.

Art and Cultural Scene

The 20th’s cultural scene is lively and diverse, with a focus on music and street art. La Bellevilloise hosts music, theater, and events in a historic space with a community feel. La Maroquinerie is a neighboring venue that hosts concerts in an old boxing arena. Street art, including works by Seth, decorates the neighborhoods of the 20th, which is where he first began creating street art.

Food and Hidden Gems

The 20th’s food scene mirrors its diverse roots. Rue de Belleville is a hub for dining, with bistros like Le Baratin offering French cuisine with a creative twist. Floréal Belleville is a recommendation we used to enjoy when living in the neighborhood, with its fresh, seasonal dishes. La Cantine Chinoise is a local favorite for authentic Wenzhou specialties like ravioli and nems. Marché de Belleville, open Tuesdays and Fridays, provides fresh produce, cheeses, and local delicacies.

For a hidden gem, Parc de Belleville is a hilltop park with stunning city views, terraced gardens, and a playground, perfect for a break. Rue Dénoyez, with vibrant murals and street art, is a colorful spot to explore.

Where to Stay

Ibis Paris Père Lachaise provides budget-friendly rooms. Mama Shelter has modern rooms with a creative twist. The 20th’s residential vibe and metro access make it a practical base, close to central Paris via metro, but calmer.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Keren Ann - Au Coin Du Monde

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