đŸ‡«đŸ‡· 💌 The Paris Love Letter #116

Walking Canal Saint Martin + The Philippe Auguste Wall + Gilbert Bécaud - Je reviens te chercher

In This Issue of The Paris Love Letter

  • Our Week In Paris: Fabric Shopping, Cafes, and a Cemetery

  • Linking You To Paris: Links to Helpful & Fun Articles About Paris

  • Paris Walks: Canal Saint Martin - From Bastille to La Villette

  • Paris Hidden Gems: The Philippe Auguste Wall

  • Featured French Song: Gilbert BĂ©caud - Je reviens te chercher

Our Week in Paris

Bonjour Friends!

This week, we made our way over to MarchĂ© Saint-Pierre and Mercerie Saint-Pierre, right by SacrĂ©-CƓur, on the hunt for fabrics for Laura’s latest project. If you ever need textiles in Paris, this street is a goldmine. There are several shops offering a wealth of inspiration.

While we were in the neighborhood, we popped into Halle Saint-Pierre, which is this quirky art gallery and bookstore that always has something unexpected going on.

© 2025 James Christopher Knight

Later on, we stopped by Brasserie Barbùs for some drinks and a little apero. Honestly, it’s not a must-see, but if you’re in the area, the upstairs view is nice and the food’s pretty good. It’s definitely a solid spot to take in the high energy of the neighborhood.

Midweek, I found myself wandering through Montparnasse Cemetery for the first time in ages. It’s much smaller than PĂšre Lachaise, and the peaceful paths are charming if you’re ever in the 14th. I wrapped up at Le DĂŽme, having coffee at that classic Montparnasse corner cafĂ©, soaking up the Montparnasse vibe before heading home.

©2025 James Christopher Knight

Linking You to Paris

âžĄïž A Vibrant Mural Celebrating Josephine Baker’s ‘Two Loves’—‘My Country and Paris’—Has Been Unveiled in France: Smithsonian Magazine reports on the unveiling of a vibrant mural in France honoring Josephine Baker, celebrating both her love for her country and Paris.

âžĄïž Here's How to Plan the Perfect Trip With Your Child: Travel + Leisure offers practical tips and heartfelt advice in this guide to planning the perfect trip with your child, covering everything from choosing destinations to making memories together.

âžĄïž Paris restaurants caught ripping off American tourists with inflated prices: This kind of experience is frustrating, but thankfully, it’s not the norm across most of Paris. Still, it’s something worth being aware of. We might even put together a guide on how to steer clear of restaurant rip-offs.

âžĄïž How to Go Swimming in the Seine, If You Must: CondĂ© Nast Traveler explores the long-awaited return of swimming in the Seine, detailing Paris’s ambitious river-cleaning efforts and what locals and visitors can expect from this historic revival.

PARIS WALKS
Canal Saint Martin: From Bastille to La Villette

© 2025 James Christopher Knight

Want to escape the tourist crowds and see how Parisians spend their weekends? Skip the Seine and head to Canal Saint-Martin instead. This 4.5-kilometer stretch from Bastille to La Villette is where locals come to breathe, and it's one of the best ways to experience authentic Parisian life.

The canal has quite a story. Napoleon ordered its construction in 1802 to bring fresh water to Northern Paris and ease congestion on the Seine. Later, Napoleon III (Bonaparte’s nephew) decided to put part of it underground from Bastille to RĂ©publique, which is why you'll start this journey at Bastille following the tree-lined Boulevard Richard-Lenoir.

Don't worry if you don't see water right away. You're walking directly above the canal as it flows beneath parks, playgrounds, and pétanque courts. Just after République, the canal emerges into daylight, and that's where the real magic begins.

The underground portion of Canal Saint Martin. © 2025 James Christopher Knight

What started as pure practicality became something unexpectedly beautiful. Those iconic iron footbridges and tree-lined quays you'll walk along weren't accidents of urban planning; they were Napoleon's vision of a more livable city.

As you stroll north, resist the urge to map out every café and bistro you pass. Instead, let yourself wander down the side streets that branch off from the water. Some of the city's best neighborhood gems are tucked away just steps from the canal, waiting for curious walkers to discover them. You'll find everything from tiny wine bars to quirky bookshops.

HĂŽtel du Nord © 2025 James Christopher Knight

One spot I can't help but mention is HÎtel du Nord, the unassuming café that sits right on the canal. It holds a special place in my heart as the first place Laura took me on a date in Paris years ago. The building starred in Marcel Carné's 1938 film of the same name, but for me, it's simply where my love affair with this city began.

💡 Here's a local tip: grab a bottle of wine or beer from any shop along the way and enjoy it canalside. Public drinking is legal in France, and there's nothing quite like watching the boats navigate the locks while sipping something cold on a warm afternoon. It's exactly what Parisians do, and exactly why this walk feels so wonderfully authentic.

📍 Click the button below to open a custom Google Map I created for this walk. This is a very easy walk to navigate and will take you about two hours at a meandering pace.

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PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
The Philippe Auguste Wall

Philippe August Wall © 2025 James Christopher Knight

Tucked away in the Marais, remnants of the Philippe Auguste Wall offer a tangible link to medieval Paris. Built starting in 1190 by King Philip II, this fortification was his insurance policy while he headed off to fight in the Third Crusade. The guy wasn't taking any chances with his city's safety.

Spanning about five kilometers with 77 towers and deep moats, it wrapped around both banks of the Seine, announcing that Paris had officially arrived as a major capital. Today, most of it has been razed, but a few visible sections, such as the one on Rue des Jardins-Saint-Paul, still showcase that incredible medieval stonework.

One of my favorite spots is near a local school (pictured above) where kids casually kick soccer balls against 12th-century stones during recess. There's something magical about watching modern life unfold against such ancient history.

Philippe Auguste Wall and The Louvre.

This wall was actually the third of seven fortifications Paris has seen over the centuries, from ancient Gallo-Roman defenses to the 19th-century Thiers Wall. Each layer tells the story of a city constantly reinventing itself to meet new challenges.

Fun Fact: Philippe was excommunicated by the Pope in 1200 over his scandalous divorce from Ingeborg of Denmark. So this wall wasn't just about keeping enemies out; it represented a king bold enough to defy the Church itself. The stones you're touching witnessed some serious medieval drama.

This is exactly why we love stopping here on our Le Marais walking tour. Instead of just admiring pretty old stones, we dig into these human stories that make history come alive, turning a simple neighborhood stroll into a genuine connection with Paris's complex past.

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FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Gilbert Bécaud - Je reviens te chercher

This week's French tune is "Je reviens te chercher" by Gilbert Bécaud, a classic French chanson with a heartfelt melody that just draws you in.

Bécaud's voice embodies a beautiful blend of longing and tenderness, making it perfect for those quiet summer moments. The 1960s music video has that timeless, slightly melancholic charm that never gets old.

DISCOVER PARIS WITH US!
Featured Review of The Week

On tour at Jardin des Plantes, Paris’ botanical gardens

This review is from a recent bike tour with Bike About Tours, with whom I work part-time. They are the best bike tour company in Paris. If you’re interested in a walking tour with me, click the button below!

The Paris Love Letter is our way of sharing authentic Parisian experiences, hidden gems, and cultural insights—all while keeping the newsletter free for our readers. To help cover the costs of creating this content, we occasionally include affiliate links for products we genuinely use and recommend with no extra cost to you. Additionally, we produce our own fine art photo prints, Paris walking tours, and guides, crafted with care to share the beauty and stories of Paris. These are not affiliate products but part of our passion for connecting you to the city we love. Rest assured, we never take commissions from restaurants, and all our recommendations are driven by honesty and a genuine appreciation for Paris.

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