Our Week in Paris

Bonjour Friends!

This week we spent a little more time in the countryside, where our Lion loves swimming in the lake. There's something magical about watching him discover the simple joy of jumping into cool water on a hot summer day.

Back in the city, we took a visiting friend to Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, where there's actually a waterfall tucked away in the landscape. Seriously, this is a park in Paris where I can feel like I'm miles away in a forest (okay, that’s an exaggeration). The way the light filters through the trees and the sound of water cascading over rocks make you forget you're in one of the world's busiest cities (almost 🤣).

We also tried L'Atmosphère, a new (to us) restaurant where the food was good, but the atmosphere (pun intended) was even better. The canal has been calling to us more often lately, and terraces in the summertime are a dream.

I had a few tours this week, and my friend was able to snap some photos of the bike tour he joined. The tour shot above is from Place des Vosges.

We also made a special trip to see the new Josephine Baker mural in northeast Paris along the canal and grabbed some food and drinks at L'Atalante right in front of it.

She's been one of my heroes for years. Her story has always resonated with me, and her music inspired me long before I understood the full scope of her courage as a resistance fighter during WWII.

The mural, painted by urban artist FKDL, captures something essential about Baker's spirit of freedom and resistance. Standing there, looking up at her, gazing out over this diverse neighborhood, I thought about how she fled racism in America to find acceptance in France, just as so many people continue to find refuge and opportunity in this city. She became the first Black woman inducted into France's Pantheon, joining luminaries like Voltaire and Marie Curie.

Here’s a video I found on YouTube that explains more about the Josephine Baker mural.

Linking You to Paris

➡️ What To Do in Paris in August: Urbansider offers a local’s guide to experiencing Paris in August, highlighting the city’s summer atmosphere, seasonal events, and insider tips for making the most of the quieter streets and happenings.

➡️ New Insights on World War Two: Life One Big Adventure shares new insights from a visit to Paris’s Museum of Liberation, offering a fascinating look at World War II history on the city’s Left Bank.

➡️ Untouched Apartment in Paris Opened After 70 Years Has Painting Worth $3.4M: Bored Panda shares the remarkable story of a Paris apartment left untouched for 70 years, revealing a forgotten treasure linked to socialite Marthe de Florian.

➡️ 10 Common Travel Mistakes to Avoid in Paris, According to a Local: Travel + Leisure highlights common mistakes travelers make in Paris and offers practical advice to help visitors enjoy a smoother, more authentic experience in the city.

PARIS WALKS
Square du Vert-Galant: Paris's Most Romantic Secret

There's a spot in Paris where I take every guest on my walking tours, and it never fails to surprise them. Square du Vert-Galant sits at the very tip of Île de la Cité, hidden in plain sight just steps from the crowds at Pont Neuf.

Most people hurry across the bridge above without realizing there's a staircase leading down to this triangular park. Named after Henri IV's nickname (he was quite the ladies' man… and, apparently, smelled of goat), the square feels like Paris's best-kept secret, even though it's completely public and free to visit.

The real magic happens when you walk to the very tip, beneath the old willow tree. This is where the river literally flows on both sides of you. You're standing at the point where the Seine becomes one stream again, with the Louvre rising across the water and Pont des Arts stretching out in front of you.

What makes this spot so special isn't just the views, though they're incredible. It's the feeling of being completely surrounded by flowing water in the heart of one of the world's busiest cities. The sound changes, the air feels different, and suddenly you understand why this island became the birthplace of Paris over 2,000 years ago.

This peaceful park will be featured in my River Walking Tour guide, soon to be released, because it perfectly captures the relationship between Paris and its river. It's also a key stop on my Paris History Walk.

The best time to visit is either late afternoon when the light hits the water just right, or early morning, which offers complete solitude. Bring a book, a bottle of wine (maybe not for a sunrise visit), or just yourself. Sometimes the most magical experiences in Paris are also the simplest.

📍 Access via the stairs just beyond the equestrian statue of Henri IV.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
Rue Cler: The Market Street Locals Still Use

Rue Cler is a stop I usually make on both my bike tours and private tours, and for good reason. This classic market street near the Eiffel Tower captures something essential about how Parisians actually live(d) and shop(ed). It’s packed with fresh markets, cafes, and specialty shops.

Named after French Brigadier General Jean Joseph Gustave Cler, who died at the Battle of Magenta in 1859, the street sits in the heart of the 7th arrondissement, where historic mansions, government ministries, and embassies line the neighborhood. But what makes Rue Cler special isn't its grand surroundings. It's the everyday magic of Parisians doing their daily shopping.

The cobblestone street feels like village life in this giant city, where locals shop with their noses, debate the ripeness of melons, and carry small trolley carts from home rather than use plastic bags.

Each morning, produce trucks from farms near Orly Airport deliver fresh goods, creating the kind of market experience that feels both timeless and completely authentic.

What I love showing guests is how this isn't just a tourist theater, like other parts of the city, though it’s not a complete secret. You'll see the same faces at the fromagerie every week, locals lingering over coffee at sidewalk tables, and vendors who know their regular customers by name.

Don't miss À la Mère de Famille at number 35. This is the oldest chocolate shop in Paris, founded in 1761, though this isn't the original location. The company has been making handcrafted chocolates for over 260 years, and their traditional recipes and time-tested techniques make it worth the stop for any chocolate lover.

Rue Cler will also be featured in my River Walking tour guide, soon to be released, because it perfectly represents the kind of neighborhood discovery that makes exploring Paris so rewarding.

Want a Private Paris Tour With Me? Learn About My Tours Here.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Joséphine Baker - J'ai deux amours

This week's French tune is "J'ai deux amours" by Joséphine Baker, the perfect follow-up to seeing her new mural in northeast Paris.

Released in 1930, this song became Baker's signature piece and captures the essence of her divided heart between America and France. Her sultry, expressive voice tells the story of someone torn between two loves, two countries, two homes. The jazz-influenced melody reflects the era when she was taking Parisian stages by storm.