Happy Halloween!

We haven't quite figured out what we're doing to celebrate yet, but if we get up to something fun, I'll let you know next week. Our little lion went to school today as Spiderman… Again. 🕷️ 🤣

It really feels like fall this week. The air has a crisp bite to it, the light is softer and more golden, and the city has settled into that quieter rhythm that comes with shorter days. The nights are much quieter too, which you can see in the photos below.

I've been shooting some video for my Montmartre walking tour this week, and I made a few still photos while wandering around that I'm sharing with you today.

I'm always drawn to the apartment buildings of Montmartre. There's something about the way they stack up the hillside, the shutters, the iron balconies, the way the stone changes color in different light.

I love the village feel of this part of Paris. It still manages to feel separate from the rest of the city, as if it's holding onto something older and quieter (though this is not true as you get near Sacré-Cœur).

I don't get up there enough, considering we live about 15 minutes away by bike. But when I do, it always reminds me why I fell in love with this city in the first place.

➡️ The most inspiring art exhibitions in Paris for November 2025: Condé Nast Traveller rounds up Paris's best current exhibitions, including the One Hundred Years of Art Deco show at Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

➡️ How to Do Paris Like a French Girl: New York Magazine shares a personal Paris guide with neighborhood picks, café favorites like Café Le Rostand, must-try Monoprix snacks, and insider shopping tips.

➡️ The festive Christmas menu at Bacha Coffee Paris is coming to the Champs-Élysées: Sortir à Paris reviews Bacha Coffee's festive menu on the Champs-Élysées, featuring foie gras and scallops with truffle paired with specialty coffees in a Moroccan-inspired setting.

➡️ Insider’s Guide To Paris Autumn 2025: Top Restaurants, New Boutique Hotels And Must-See Exhibitions: Forbes offers a curated, on-the-ground pulse of Paris this fall. Where to sleep, sip, and see the city at its most stylish, in one quick hit.

This week, we're wandering through Le Marais, one of Paris's most layered neighborhoods, where medieval streets meet elegant 17th-century mansions, and Jewish heritage sits alongside trendy boutiques.

This walk takes you from the Seine up through the heart of the 4th arrondissement, hitting hidden courtyards, ancient walls, iconic squares, and a few of my favorite spots to pause, photograph, and soak it all in.

• Le Louis Philippe
A brasserie right on the Seine with stunning views of the islands. It's a classic Parisian spot with decent food, average coffee, and good wine. Though I’m not terribly excited about the products, they’ll all be fine, and I love the location.

• Wallace Fountain (1872)
One of the iconic green cast-iron fountains donated by Sir Richard Wallace after the Franco-Prussian War to provide free drinking water to Parisians. The first was installed in July 1872, and today over 100 still stand across the city.

• Au Petit Versailles du Marais
Step inside this historic bakery dating back to about 1860 and you'll find yourself surrounded by ornate woodwork and Belle Époque charm. It's now run by Christian Vabret, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France baker, and the pastries live up to the setting.

• Blade Sharpener of the Marais (stone relief)
A small medieval carving tucked into a building façade, depicting a blade sharpener at work. It's a reminder of the street trades that once filled these lanes, offering a glimpse into daily life centuries ago.

• Hôtel de Sens Garden
Once the private medieval garden of a fortified mansion, this green space is now open to the public. It's a peaceful retreat with manicured hedges and gravel paths, tucked away from the bustle of the surrounding streets.

• Hôtel de Sens
Built in the late 15th century, this fortified mansion is one of the few remaining medieval private residences in Paris. Its turrets, Gothic details, and defensive architecture make it feel more like a small. Today, it houses the Forney Library, dedicated to the arts.

• Saint Paul Saint Louis Church
A stunning Jesuit church, consecrated in 1641, features a grand dome inspired by the Gesù Church in Rome. Step inside for soaring Baroque interiors, dramatic light, and a sense of quiet reflection in the middle of the Marais.

• Village Saint-Paul
A charming village-within-a-city, this maze of courtyards and passageways is home to antique dealers, artisans, and vintage shops. It's hidden behind ancient walls and feels like stepping into another era, making it perfect for browsing or simply wandering.

• Philippe August Wall
Sections of this 12th-century defensive wall, built by King Philip II to protect Paris, are still visible throughout the Marais. You can see original stonework tucked into schoolyards, gardens, and building façades, a tangible link to medieval Paris.

• Nicolas Carving (1764)
Etched into the stone arcade of Place des Vosges, this simple inscription is believed to be the city's oldest known graffiti. Just a name and a date, but it's survived over 250 years.

• Place des Vosges
Paris's oldest planned square, completed in 1612, is a masterpiece of symmetry and elegance. Red-brick pavilions with stone quoins surround a central garden. One of these townhomes and the arcades below once housed Victor Hugo, whose former apartment is now open to the public as a free museum.

• Rue des Rosiers
The historic heart of the Jewish Quarter, this narrow street is famous for its falafel shops (L'As du Fallafel draws long lines), traditional bakeries, and a mix of old-world delis and new boutiques. It's lively, delicious, and full of character.

• Rue du Bourg Tibourg
A cozy little square tucked along this medieval street, now filled with lively cafés and outdoor seating. It's a great spot to pause, grab a bite, and do some people-watching. I don’t have any food recommendations here, but most spots will be just fine.

• Rue du Trésor
This narrow, pedestrian-only lane was named for a treasure supposedly found here during its construction.

Place Sainte-Catherine
Once a bustling market square, this quiet plaza is now lined with café terraces and shaded by trees. It's a lovely spot to sit with a drink, away from the main tourist flow, just blocks away on all sides.

• Maison Faust
A timber-framed house often debated as one of Paris's oldest surviving structures. Local lore ties it to Goethe's "Faust," though the claim is more romantic legend than documented fact. Either way, it's an example of medieval architecture still standing in the heart of the city.

Aimé Barelli was a French jazz trumpeter and bandleader who became one of the most popular musicians in post-war Paris, leading his own big band and backing some of France's biggest stars.

Lucienne Delyle was one of the most beloved French singers of the 1940s and 50s, known for her warm, expressive voice and romantic ballads that captured the spirit of the era.

Together, they created some of the most memorable recordings of mid-century French popular music, blending swing, jazz, and chanson in a style that defined Parisian nightlife and radio during the golden age of French song.

Custom routes. Real local stories. Zero tourist traps.