Bonjour, Friends!

This week, I found myself back in front of Saint-Gervais (pictured below), walking through the Garden of Remembrance for November 13, 2015. It is a relatively new space, created as a living memorial for the attacks. It is genuinely beautiful and moving.

At night, the lighting is stunning. Low, warm points of light trace the paths through the garden to the 500-year-old church that anchors it all in the background.

Note: The church you see today is mostly 16th to 17th century, built on a site that has been a place of worship since the 500s.

There are not many outdoor places in a city that naturally bring voices down to a hush. Between the church and the garden, it has become one of my favorite spots to pause for contemplation.

We also visited the Christmas market at Hôtel de Ville, one of my favorite markets for the eye candy (pictured above). As far as Christmas Markets go, it feels open and easy to move through, and the location is perfect.

You are right near the river, with the islands close by, so it is easy to turn the market visit into a longer walk. From Hôtel de Ville, you can cross over to the Notre-Dame Christmas market, which is small and adorably quaint, just a short walk away on the other side of the Seine.

Here’s the walk in reverse. I filmed a quick YouTube video back before Paris turned cold. If you do the route, steal a few of these stops along the way.

➡️ French Mulled Wine (Vin Chaud) and Raclette: HiP Paris shares a cozy guide to making vin chaud and raclette at home, one of my favorite French traditions. We used this recipe just last week.

➡️ In Paris, a New Wave of Chocolate Boutiques: The New York Times shares a tour of five newer Paris chocolate boutiques that go beyond “pretty bonbons,” spotlighting chefs and shops.

➡️ December 2025 Restaurant Buzz: Where to Eat In Paris: Bonjour Paris shares a December 2025 Paris eating roundup with concrete, use-now details on several addresses, then closes with a fun detour into a forthcoming novel about Paul Bocuse and the making of a chef-myth.

➡️ The Bike-Led Makeover of Paris: Placemaking Europe breaks down how Paris accelerated its bike and climate makeover, with stats and real examples like rewilded schoolyards and the redesigned Hôtel de Ville square.

➡️ Vive La France: Paris Street Art: UP Magazine shares how Paris street art thrives from Miss Tic's legacy to today's scene, explaining what stays on walls versus what gets scrubbed.

If you’re shopping for a Francophile (or for your future self), here’s a tight, Paris-coded gift list: books that teleport you, home goods that change the atmosphere, and French beauty that turns a bathroom shelf into a tiny apothecary.

Now that we're getting close to the holidays, I'm sharing a classic: Dalida’s "Vive le vent". This is the French take on "Jingle Bells," and it’s a good one to add to your playlist for holiday parties this year!