OUR WEEK IN PARIS

Snapshots From Paris

Each week, I share a handful of photos that tell the story of our Paris. From quick phone snaps to more carefully composed shots, these images are little postcards of our life in Paris, inviting you to see the city through our eyes.

1. (top left) Looking at Île Saint-Louis from the Right Bank

2. (top right) Tuileries Garden

3. (bottom left) Place des Vosges

4. (bottom right) Conciergerie bathed in morning light

What a gorgeous fall weekend we've had in Paris! I've been taking advantage of the beautiful weather with long walks along the Seine, camera in hand. The autumn colors are at their peak right now, and I've captured so many lovely shots that I'll be sharing with you over the next few newsletters. While October is typically a quieter month in Paris, the city is still buzzing with visitors – just look at the queue outside the Louvre! But don't worry, I know plenty of peaceful spots to escape the tourist rush, and I'll be sharing those with you too.

LINKING YOU TO PARIS

➡️ Notre-Dame Cathedral Finally Has a Reopening Date: From AFAR: After a devastating fire in 2019, the Paris landmark is scheduled to start welcoming visitors once again on December 8, 2024.

➡️ I worked as a tour guide in Paris. Here are the 5 biggest mistakes I saw tourists make: I agree with this recent Business Insider article. As a tour guide and writer of this newsletter, I've found there are indeed simple ways to enhance one's visit to Paris.

➡️ The biggest indoor ice rink in the world is coming to Paris this festive season: From TimeOut - The Grand Palais will host the giant ice rink for the first time since 2019. This looks fun!

VISITING PARIS

Whispers Among the Tombstones at Père Lachaise

With Halloween this week, it seems fitting to explore the mysterious side of Paris's most famous burial ground. While Paris's largest cemetery draws visitors year-round to see the graves of Jim Morrison, Édith Piaf, and Oscar Wilde, Père Lachaise harbors darker stories within its cobblestone paths. As dusk settles over its 110 acres, the cemetery takes on an entirely different character, with shadows stretching between its 70,000 ornate tombs and mausoleums.

I visited Père Lachaise yesterday afternoon. Armed with my camera, I created a few spooky double-exposures of ancient tombs and light filtering through the cemetery's massive trees. While I didn't encounter any ghostly figures myself, the photos certainly captured the haunting beauty of this historic place.

Among the most famous ghost stories is that of Adolphe Thiers, a former French president whose tomb has been the site of numerous mysterious encounters. Security guards have reported seeing a well-dressed man in 19th-century attire disappearing behind the monument, only to find no one there upon investigation. Even more intriguing are the accounts of Marcel Proust's spirit, said to wander near his black granite grave, perhaps still in search of lost time.

The most frequently reported supernatural occurrence involves the ghost of a young woman in a white dress, believed to be Sophia de Lysle, who died tragically on her wedding day in 1854. Visitors claim to have seen her figure gliding between the graves near Division 42, sometimes accompanied by the faint sound of wedding bells. Whether these stories are true or simply products of imagination enhanced by the cemetery's gothic atmosphere is up for debate.

Today, the cemetery's after-hours security team has countless tales of unexplained footsteps, mysterious lights, and shadowy figures that vanish into thin air. While skeptics might dismiss these stories, there's something undeniably eerie about Père Lachaise as evening approaches. Perhaps it's just the weight of history and the countless stories buried within its walls, or maybe, just maybe, some residents aren't quite ready to rest in eternal peace.

PARIS CAFES

Finding Peace Along the Seine at Les Nautes

While tourists flock to the cafés facing Notre-Dame or the trendy spots in Le Marais, there's a hidden gem quietly serving drinks and simple fare along one of the Seine's most charming curves. Les Nautes, housed in a former customs house at 1 quai des Célestins, offers what many seek but few find in Paris – an authentic riverside experience without the crowds.

Situated between Pont Marie and Pont Sully, with perfect views of Île Saint-Louis, this understated café-bar has mastered the art of French simplicity. The terrace spills onto the quai, where long tables and benches invite visitors to linger over a glass of wine or a cold beer. While they offer a selection of charcuterie boards and light snacks, Les Nautes isn't about haute cuisine – it's about location, ambiance, and that particularly Parisian way of doing nothing in particular.

We spent a peaceful Sunday afternoon here recently, watching boats glide by and observing Parisians enjoying their city. With prices remaining reasonable (beers from €3.50, wines from €4), it's a refreshing alternative to the more commercial riverside establishments. The service maintains that perfect balance of friendly yet unobtrusive that lets you truly relax.

Open from 5 PM on weekdays and 12:30 PM on weekends (closing at midnight most nights), Les Nautes reminds us that sometimes the most memorable Paris moments happen in places you won't find in guidebooks. As the sun sets behind Île Saint-Louis and locals gather for their evening apéro, you might just find yourself experiencing the Paris you've always imagined.

JOIE DE VIVRE

Celebrating La Toussaint, A Sacred French Tradition

While Americans are wrapping up their Halloween celebrations, the French are preparing for a more solemn occasion. La Toussaint (All Saints' Day) on November 1st is a national holiday in France, when families honor their departed loved ones and all the saints of the Catholic Church. Unlike the spooky festivities of Halloween, this day is marked by reflection, family gatherings, and beautiful traditions.

To celebrate La Toussaint, start by visiting your local florist for potted chrysanthemums – the traditional flower of remembrance in France. While Americans associate these blooms with autumn decoration, in France they're specifically reserved for this holiday and paying respect to the deceased. Set them in your home alongside white candles to create a thoughtful atmosphere.

Create a special family meal featuring autumn classics like potimarron (French pumpkin) soup, roasted chestnuts, and seasonal mushroom dishes. Open a bottle of red wine, and take time to share stories about family members who have passed on. In France, this is a time when multiple generations gather to keep family histories alive through storytelling.

For dessert, consider serving soul cakes, a traditional All Saints' Day treat. While not commonly found in modern French celebrations, these spiced cakes represent a beautiful connection to the holiday's ancient roots. Below, we've included a simple traditional recipe to help you create your own meaningful celebration.

Download a Recipe Here:

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Ben Mazué - Les jours heureux

This track comes from a would-be doctor turned singer-songwriter known for his intimate, conversational style. Ben began pursuing music at age 25 after completing his medical studies.

Released in 2020, Les jours heureux is a gentle reflection on life's simple joys, delivered with Ben's signature talk-singing approach that makes you feel like you're chatting with an old friend over coffee.

💌 Support The Paris Love Letter

Bonjour! Each week, we pour our hearts into bringing you the most enchanting stories and hidden gems of Paris. If you enjoy our weekly love letters from the City of Light, here are a few ways you can support our work:

☕️ Buy Us a Café - Merci !

*When you support us, send an email letting us know! We'd love to express our gratitude personally!

🎯 €20+ Tip Bonus: A hand-selected, fine art postcard from our Paris collection, personally signed and sent directly to your mailbox. A little piece of Paris, from our heart to your home. So if you tip €20 or more, reply with your mailing address!

🎨 Own a Piece of Paris

Transform your space with our curated collection of Paris photography prints. Newsletter readers receive an exclusive 25% discount on all prints using code PLL25 at checkout. Perfect for bringing that joie de vivre to your home.

🗺️ Experience Paris with James as Your Guide

Let James show you the Paris we know and love. Join our intimate walking tours through the city's heart. From monuments to hidden gems to local favorites, experience the heart of Paris the way we do!