Our Week in Paris

Each week, I share a handful of photos. These images are like little postcards of our life in Paris, inviting you to see the city through our eyes. I also include links to places we've visited and think might be worth trying, offering you a taste of authentic and hidden experiences in Paris.

1. (top left) Le Valmy, bathed in Sunday morning light.

2. (top right) View of La Nouvelle Seine - restaurant boat

3. (bottom left) Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre

4. (bottom right) The tip of Île Saint-Louis

This week, we soaked up the last few days of sunshine in the city, making the most of a week-long spring teaser. We ventured to Sacré-Cœur, where we enjoyed a peaceful retreat in the park behind the cathedral. It’s the perfect spot to escape the bustling crowds in front of the monument while still enjoying its breathtaking presence from a quieter perspective.

While we were walking, we encountered a couple of street musicians playing near the cathedral, their music filling the air. These moments—running into live music, art, and culture as I go through my day—keep me in love with Paris.

Linking You to Paris

➡️ The Top Women Chefs Defining Paris’s New Dining Scene: HiP Paris highlights several Paris restaurants led by women chefs, showcasing their innovative contributions and the growing influence of women in French cuisine, from historical figures to modern Michelin-starred talents.

➡️ 15 best things to do with kids in Paris: This Condé Nast Traveller article offers a guide to family-friendly activities, including parks, museums, and boat rides, that will keep children entertained while they explore the city.

➡️ A Brief History of the French Baguette: Separating Facts From Myths: This Paris Unlocked article provides an overview of the baguette's origins, debunking myths like its creation during Napoleon’s era and exploring its evolution into a cultural icon of French cuisine.

➡️ The 38 Best Restaurants in Paris, According to a French Food Expert: Eater features a curated map of the city's top dining spots, highlighting a diverse range of bistros, cafes, and fine dining options. The map is updated quarterly to reflect the city’s evolving food scene.

VISITING PARIS
The 2nd Arrondissement

The 2nd arrondissement of Paris often goes unnoticed by visitors, but I’ve come to appreciate how it mixes the city’s past with its present. This small area north of the 1st arrondissement has historic shopping arcades, busy food markets, and neighborhoods that are changing with the times, offering a real glimpse into Parisian life.

A Step Back in Time

The 2nd arrondissement has a collection of covered passages that feel like a piece of 19th-century Paris. These glass-roofed arcades, like Galerie Vivienne with its mosaic floors, were built in the early 1800s as sheltered shopping spaces. Passage des Panoramas opened in 1800, while others like Passage Jouffroy and Passage du Grand Cerf have vintage shops, bookstores, and cafes. An interesting detail: Passage des Panoramas was once home to the Théâtre des Variétés, where a young Napoleon reportedly courted Josephine, adding a bit of history. These passages are good for a walk, especially on a rainy day, showing how Paris used to shop.

A Food Lover’s Haven

The food scene in the 2nd arrondissement centers on Rue Montorgueil and the surrounding streets. Rue Montorgueil is a pedestrian street that crosses into the district from the 1st. You’ll find Maison Stohrer here, a bakery from 1730 that invented the baba au rhum, which is a fun fact for dessert fans. There’s also À la Mère de Famille, a sweet shop from 1761 known for its chocolates and candies, tied to Paris’s long history of confectionery.

Rue Montorgueil is a good street for visitors to walk along, with plenty of cafes and shops. I visited recently and found most menus overpriced, but if you want to experience the busy atmosphere, it might be worth a stop.

Our Mystery Parisian friend recommends Hôtel du Sentier, a brasserie in Passage du Caire—an arcade with Egyptian-inspired architecture from Napoleon’s campaign—where I’ve had delicious French dishes with him. He also suggests Entre 2 Rives, a Vietnamese restaurant with dishes that have a modern twist. Near Hôtel du Sentier, the streets around Passage du Caire have cheese shops, wine merchants, and produce stalls, good for grabbing picnic supplies or sipping a coffee at a café while taking in the scene.

A Blend of Old and New

The Sentier district shows how the 2nd is changing—it used to be a textile hub and now it’s a spot for start-ups, sometimes called “Silicon Sentier.” You can still feel its history in streets like Rue d’Aboukir. For a historical stop, the Tour Jean Sans Peur at 20 Rue d’Aboukir is a 15th-century medieval tower, the last part of a ducal palace. If you need a break, The Hoxton at 30-32 Rue du Sentier is a hotel with a courtyard bar—I met a friend there recently and liked the relaxed vibe, even if you’re not staying. The 2nd arrondissement has a mix of old and new, just steps from the city’s busier areas.

Free Download!
Paris Arrondisment Map

TOUR WITH US
Join Me in Paris This Spring or Summer

I’ve been pouring my heart into crafting Paris walking tours that feel less like checklists and more like love letters to the city—insider spots, real moments, and a pace that lets you soak it all in. If you’ve ever thought about seeing Paris with a local guide, I’d love for you to come along. We are now booking tours for spring and summer. Take a look at ParisLoveAffairTours.com. If it feels right for you—I’d be honored to show you around.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
Parc Marcel Bleustein-Blanchet Behind Sacré-Cœur

When you visit Sacré-Cœur, the crowds around the cathedral are hard to avoid, drawn by its dome and views. Just behind it, though, sits Parc Marcel Bleustein-Blanchet in the 18th arrondissement, a spot that often flies under the radar. This park, named after the French advertising pioneer who donated the land in 1984, offers a break with its green spaces and shaded paths, set against a history that ties it to the area’s post-war redevelopment. It’s a place where you can step away from the busy streets and enjoy a quieter side of Paris.

The park’s low-key nature makes it a great spot for a picnic, reading a book, or just sitting back with some company. It stays less crowded even on busy days, thanks to its location behind the cathedral, which keeps most visitors focused out front. My son had a blast in the play area for about an hour, digging in the large sandbox with kids he’d just met, a simple joy that shows how welcoming this space can be.

The play area, with its slide and climbing structures, adds a family-friendly touch, a nod to the park’s role as a community hub since its opening. Historically, this area was part of Montmartre’s working-class neighborhoods, and the park’s creation helped transform it into a recreational space after World War II, reflecting the city’s efforts to reclaim green areas. It’s a practical spot for kids to burn off energy while adults relax nearby, with a stunning view of the cathedral.

Parc Marcel Bleustein-Blanchet is a hidden gem that offers a mix of history and everyday use. Whether you’re there for a picnic, a quiet read, or to let kids play, it’s a solid choice behind Sacré-Cœur, blending the past with a laid-back present.

A PEEK INTO HISTORY
Tour Jean Sans Peur

In the 2nd arrondissement, the Tour Jean Sans Peur is a fascinating relic of medieval Paris, often overlooked amidst the city’s more famous landmarks. Located at 20 Rue Étienne Marcel, this 15th-century tower is the last remaining part of the Hôtel de Bourgogne, a grand residence built in 1409 by Jean Sans Peur, Duke of Burgundy, during a turbulent period marked by the Armagnac-Burgundian Civil War. The tower, rising 27 meters with a spiral staircase of 91 steps, was both a defensive structure and a symbol of power, reflecting the Duke’s need for protection after his role in the assassination of Louis d’Orléans in 1407.

The tower’s architecture is a highlight, featuring intricate Gothic details like the vaulted ceiling of the grand staircase, adorned with a carved oak tree symbolizing the Burgundian dynasty. Visitors can explore its rooms, including the Duke’s private quarters, which offer a glimpse into medieval life—complete with one of the oldest known private latrines in Paris, a surprisingly advanced feature for the time. The tower also hosts exhibitions, such as “Health in the Middle Ages,” which ran until September 2023, providing historical context through interactive displays.

A lesser-known story adds intrigue: Jean Sans Peur’s fears were well-founded—he was assassinated in 1419, just a decade after the tower’s construction, a grim irony given its name, meaning “John the Fearless.” Today, the tower is a quiet escape, surrounded by a small courtyard where you can reflect on its history. It’s open Wednesday to Sunday, 1:30 PM to 6:00 PM, with admission at 6 euros for adults and 4 euros for children under 18, though it’s free for kids under 7.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Barbara - Dis, quand reviendras-tu ?

Barbara’s “Dis, quand reviendras-tu ?” is one of her most iconic and heartfelt songs, a poignant ballad of longing and unfulfilled love. Written in 1962, the song reflects Barbara’s vulnerability and poetic depth, as she yearns for a lover’s return. Her voice, delicate yet powerful, carries the weight of her emotions, making this song a masterpiece of French chanson.

Barbara is now one of my favorite classic French singers (thanks for the introduction, Laurent), and this song captures exactly why. The nostalgia woven into her lyrics and the imperfections of the old recording—its warm crackles and raw authenticity—make it all the more moving. “Dis, quand reviendras-tu ?” always leaves me dreaming, and I hope it stirs the same emotions for you.

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