Our Week in Paris

This week, we had the joy of celebrating Laura’s birthday—a day filled with good company, beautiful views, and a little Parisian indulgence. We started the morning with a breakfast date and then wandered over to Café Marly, located right at the Louvre. Sitting on the terrace in the sunshine was a treat, even if the coffee was just okay and the prices a bit steep. The view, though, makes it worth the visit—a perfect spot to enjoy the Louvre courtyard.

The highlight of the day was a lunch cruise on the Seine with Bateaux Parisiens, which we recommend. It’s a two-hour experience that starts near the Eiffel Tower and takes you past some of Paris’ most iconic sights, all while enjoying good food. We kicked things off with a kir royal, followed by a delicious three-course lunch (starter, main, and dessert) paired with two bottles of wine, one white and one red. We barely started the second bottle but were happy we could take it home with us. A river cruise is such a lovely way to see the city from a new perspective.

Afterward, we hopped on bikes and pedaled around the city, stopping at a few of our favorite spots. It was the perfect way to end a memorable day—active, scenic, and full of those little Parisian moments that make this city so special.

Traveler Tip 💡: If you want to enjoy the same view without the overpriced coffee at Café Marly (or if the café is full), grab a takeaway coffee from a nearby spot and sit on the bench in front of Café Marly.

Bateaux Parisiens Seine River Gourmet Lunch & Sightseeing Cruise

Linking You to Paris

➡️ Here are the best current exhibitions to see in Paris: Paris Secret showcases innovative 2025 Paris exhibitions, like "Future World" at Atelier des Lumières and "Dolce & Gabbana" at the Grand Palais, blending art, tech, and fashion.

➡️ The 14 best family-friendly hotels in Paris: Time Out Paris lists the top 10 family-friendly hotels in Paris for 2025, featuring options like the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel George V near the Champs-Élysées with family suites and a pool and the eco-conscious HOY Paris offering holistic activities and sustainable stays for families.

➡️ The Best Paris Restaurants this Spring: Bouche, Margaux, Anahi, and More: Whitewall highlights the best Paris restaurants for spring, featuring spots like Bouche with its natural wines and seasonal dishes, Margaux offering timeless French classics in a cozy setting, and Anahi with its Argentine flair by chef Mauro Colagreco.

➡️ 12 best Airbnbs in Paris: pied-à-terres, artists' flats, and spacious villas: Condé Nast Traveller explores the best Paris Airbnbs for 2025, featuring stylish stays like a family-friendly three-bedroom in Le Marais and a chic rooftop terrace with Eiffel Tower views, curated for their Superhost status, amenities, and prime locations.

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VISITING PARIS
The 3rd Arrondissement

The 3rd arrondissement of Paris, the northern part of the Marais, is a mix of history and culture that I enjoy spending time in. While it’s often seen as a quieter spot compared to the busier southern Marais in the 4th arrondissement, it still draws plenty of visitors with its museums, markets, and historic streets, so don’t expect to escape the crowds entirely. To the north, it borders the area around Place de la République, which feels more residential and local—an area I like for its location, accessibility, and cultural vibe.

Museums and Markets

The 3rd arrondissement has cultural spots like the Musée Carnavalet at 23 Rue de Sévigné, a free museum in two 17th-century mansions that covers Paris’s history from prehistory to today. The Musée Picasso at 5 Rue de Thorigny houses over 5,000 works by the artist, set in a historic mansion. Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature (I wrote about it HERE), a unique and intimate museum blending art, history, and natural curiosities, offers a whimsical exploration of humanity’s relationship with nature. Marché des Enfants-Rouges at 39 Rue de Bretagne, opened in 1615, is the city’s oldest food market—named after a nearby orphanage where children wore red uniforms—and offers fresh produce and international street food.

Quiet Corners

For a break, Square du Temple (Google Map), near the arrondissement’s town hall, is a small park with a pond and benches, once part of the Knights Templar’s headquarters in the 12th century. It’s a good spot for a picnic or to read. The oldest house in Paris at 51 Rue de Montmorency (Google Map), commissioned by Nicolas Flamel in 1407 to house the poor, has a stone facade and a plaque in his memory—though controversy has stirred for years over its claim. Just a few steps away at 3 Rue Volta (Google Map), a half-timbered house from 1644–1655 has been debated as a contender, with historians questioning which is truly the oldest.

The Marais Debate

While the Marais spans into the 3rd, some locals I know argue it’s not the “true” Marais, which they say is closer to the river in the 4th arrondissement—claiming the label here is more of a real estate marketing tactic that expanded the area’s boundaries over time for its trendy appeal. Historically, the Marais began as a noble district near the Seine in the 16th century with private mansions for the elite, and its northern extension into the 3rd came later as the city grew.

Where to Stay

If you’re considering staying in the 3rd, it’s known for boutique hotels, offering a more intimate vibe than larger chains. Pricing averages around 150–250 euros per night for a mid-range boutique hotel, similar to the 4th or 5th arrondissements, though it’s slightly cheaper than the tourist-heavy 1st or 7th. It’s a convenient base with easy access to metro lines 3 and 11, blending culture and local life, making it a practical choice for visitors.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
Marché des Enfants Rouges

If you’re strolling through the 3rd arrondissement, it’s worth taking a moment to visit Marché des Enfants Rouges. I’ve mentioned it before, but it’s one of those places that feels like a little slice of history tucked into the everyday rhythm of Paris. Located at 39 Rue de Bretagne, it’s the city’s oldest covered market, established back in 1615. The name, “The Market of the Red Children,” came from a nearby orphanage where the children wore red uniforms—a small detail that connects the market to the neighborhood’s past.

What I love about this spot is how easy it is to miss if you’re not looking for it. The entrance is subtle, and many people walk right by without realizing what’s inside. But step through, and you’ll find a lively space filled with food stalls offering everything from fresh produce to international dishes. The last time I was there, I had a tagine, a perfect meal, before wandering the surrounding streets.

The neighborhood itself is just as charming as the market. After your visit, you can explore the nearby cafes, boutiques, and little shops that give this part of the Marais its character. Whether you’re looking for a casual lunch (be prepared for crowds at lunchtime on nice days) or just a place to soak in the atmosphere, Marché des Enfants Rouges is a spot I always recommend revisiting.

READER CONTRIBUTIONS
Parisian Postcards

Parisian Postcards celebrate your unique experiences and memories of Paris. Whether you have a photo, a fun story, or a special moment from your travels, we want to hear from you!

Share your Parisian adventures with us; you might be featured in an upcoming issue. It's a wonderful way to connect with fellow Paris lovers and inspire others with your journey.

To submit your contribution, email us at [email protected] or reply to this newsletter. I can't wait to see Paris through your eyes!

Thank you, John Sherman, for sharing this photo of the iconic Shakespeare and Company and its charming café! While many are familiar with the legendary bookstore, fewer know about the delightful café next door, where you can enjoy a cup of coffee while soaking in a stunning view of Notre Dame.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Zaho de Sagazan - Tristesse

This week, I’m sharing another masterpiece from Zaho de Sagazan, Tristesse. If you’ve been following along, you’ll know I’ve featured her before—and for good reason. Zaho is one of the most powerful musical artists of our modern era, a true force of nature in the music world. Her ability to channel raw emotion into her music is inspiring.

More than just a musician, Zaho is an artist in every sense of the word, crafting unique and deeply moving pieces that resonate on a soul-deep level. Tristesse is a perfect example of her emotive brilliance, blending haunting melodies with a depth of feeling that’s impossible to ignore.

I’m going to try to catch her concert at L’Olympica in Paris this September.

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