đŸ‡«đŸ‡· 💌 The Paris Love Letter #99

4th Arrondissement + Riverside Retreat + Laurent Lamarca & Ben Mazué - La mer est calme

Looking across the river to the island

© 2025 James Christopher Knight

In This Issue of The Paris Love Letter

  • Our Week In Paris: Our Adventures in Champ de Mars and The Louvre

  • Linking You To Paris: Links to Helpful & Fun Articles About Paris

  • Visiting Paris: The 4th Arrondissement

  • Paris Hidden Gems: A Riverside Retreat in the 4th

  • Featured French Song: Laurent Lamarca & Ben MazuĂ© - La mer est calme

Our Week in Paris

Each week, I share a handful of photos. These images are like little postcards of our life in Paris, inviting you to see the city through our eyes.

playground at Champ de Mars and the Louvre

© 2025 James Christopher Knight

  1. (top left) Eiffel Tower from Champ de Mars

  2. (top right) The Lion & The Louvre

  3. (bottom left) The Lion & The Louvre

  4. (bottom right) Playground at Champ de Mars

Spring is making its quiet debut in Paris, and we caught the first signs of it this week during an adventure with our little Lion. At the playground in Champ de Mars (Google Map), under the gaze of the Eiffel Tower, the trees are just starting to bloom. The soft pink and white blossoms feel like a promise of warmer days ahead, and the crisp air carried just a hint of spring’s arrival as the Lion darted around, enjoying every moment.

Later, we rode our bike along the Seine, weaving through the city on both sides of the river, and arrived at the Louvre just in time for sunset. The fountains in the courtyard were still turned off, but that didn’t stop the Lion from being completely enchanted by them. He ran between the empty basins, his curiosity lighting up the golden hour. It’s these simple, fleeting moments—trees in bloom, the Lion’s laughter, and the city bathed in soft light—that remind me how magical Paris is, especially when spring is just around the corner.

looking across the river at the Louvre

© 2025 James Christopher Knight

*This image is provided for personal use only. It may not be reproduced, distributed, or used for commercial purposes without prior written consent. All rights reserved.

Linking You to Paris

âžĄïž The 12 best hotels in the Marais: Time Out Paris lists the 12 best Marais hotels for 2025, like the eco-chic HĂŽtel National Des Arts et MĂ©tiers and the elegant HĂŽtel Dupond-Smith, blending modern style with the neighborhood’s historic charm.

âžĄïž What to Do in Paris in April: Events, Warmer Weather, Gardens and More: HiP Paris’s "What to Do in Paris in April" paints the city as a springtime gem with blooming flowers, fewer crowds, and events like the Paris Marathon, perfect for enjoying gardens and cultural sites like the Louvre.

âžĄïž The Best Kebabs in Paris: Bon AppĂ©tit’s "The Best Kebabs in Paris," published March 20, 2025, highlights top spots like Adar for wood-fired shawarma, Mehmet for chicken kebabs with natural wine, and Urfa Kebab for Kurdish-style eats, showcasing Paris’s diverse, evolving kebab culture.

âžĄïž Paris residents vote to pedestrianise 500 extra streets: The Connexion France reports that Paris residents voted to pedestrianize and "gardenify" 500 additional streets. This move is part of ongoing efforts to reduce car use and enhance green spaces.

VISITING PARIS
The 4th Arrondissement

The 4th arrondissement is a district I spend a lot of time in, as I give walking tours of the Marais that focus on this area. It’s the southern part of the Marais, blending Paris’s history with a lively cultural scene, and includes part of Île de la CitĂ© and Île Saint-Louis. I also work part-time for a bike tour company headquartered at Le Peloton CafĂ©, a spot known for great coffee, where we start our tours before heading out to explore the city. This arrondissement is a favorite of mine because it captures so much of what makes Paris special—centuries-old architecture, vibrant neighborhoods, and a creative energy that’s hard to find elsewhere.

Place des Voges in fall

Place des Vosges © 2024 James Christopher Knight

History and Main Sights

The 4th arrondissement has deep historical roots. The Hîtel de Ville, a Renaissance-style city hall, was rebuilt between 1874 and 1882 after the original was destroyed during the Paris Commune fire—it often hosts free outdoor exhibitions, which are worth checking out if you’re passing by.

Place des Vosges, built between 1605 and 1612 under Henry IV, is the city’s oldest planned square, with its red-brick and stone facades, arcaded walkways, and a central park perfect for a quiet break. It was once home to literary figure Victor Hugo, whose former residence at No. 6 is now a free-of-charge museum - Maison de Victor Hugo.

The Île de la CitĂ© includes Notre Dame, a Gothic masterpiece built between 1163 and 1345. Île Saint-Louis, connected by the Pont Saint-Louis, offers a quieter escape with its 17th-century architecture, narrow streets, and small shops selling everything from artisanal ice cream (The best is Berthillon) to antiques.

For a piece of rock history, Jim Morrison’s apartment at 17 Rue Beautreillis, where he lived before his death in 1971, is a lesser-known spot worth a quick look, though it’s not open to the public and marked only by a small plaque. It’s rumored that he used to hang out at a restaurant down the street, called Vins des PyrĂ©nĂ©es, which I like a lot.

Art and Culture

The Pompidou Centre on Place Georges Pompidou is a hub for modern art, with its inside-out design by architects Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, opened in 1977. It houses exhibits ranging from Picasso to contemporary works, and I often bring tour groups here for its rooftop views over Paris—it’s a great way to see the city’s skyline.

The southern Marais is known for its galleries, theaters, and boutique shops, adding to the area’s creative vibe; streets like Rue Vieille du Temple are lined with independent art spaces and fashion stores. You’ll also find a strong gay community here, which brings diversity to the neighborhood’s cultural scene, especially around Rue des Archives.

View from Pompidou Center

The View from the Pompidou Center © 2024 James Christopher Knight

Food and Hidden Gems

For a bite, Au Petit Fer à Cheval on Rue Vieille du Temple is a classic Marais café with a horseshoe-shaped bar, serving traditional French dishes.

No visit to the 4th is complete without exploring Rue des Rosiers, the heart of Paris's historic Jewish quarter. This street preserves the neighborhood's Jewish heritage despite ongoing gentrification. L'As du Fallafel serves legendary falafel sandwiches with lines often stretching down the block, while bakeries like Sacha Finkelsztajn and Florence Kahn (recognizable by its beautiful blue mosaic storefront) offer traditional Jewish pastries, cheesecake, and challah bread. Unlike most Parisian shops, many establishments here close on Saturdays for Shabbat and open on Sundays instead.

Looking at the Philippe Auguste Wall

From my tour in the Marais.

The 4th has hidden spots like the King Philippe Auguste Wall on Rue des Jardins St-Paul, a remnant of the city's 1190 fortifications built to protect Paris before Philippe Auguste left for the Crusades; it's the largest surviving section and a quiet spot to reflect on the city's medieval past.

Église St-Merri on Rue de la Verrerie, built between 1500 and 1520 in the Flamboyant Gothic style, is often missed by visitors but worth a peek for its intricate stained glass and the peaceful atmosphere inside, especially during one of its free organ concerts.

Where to Stay

If you’re considering staying in the 4th, it’s a convenient base with a range of options, mostly boutique hotels that offer an intimate vibe. Another option is Hotel Caron de Beaumarchais near Place des Vosges, which has a literary theme inspired by the playwright Beaumarchais, with rates averaging 200–250 euros per night. Pricing here is similar to the 3rd or 5th arrondissements, though slightly cheaper than the tourist-heavy 1st or 7th, and you’re well-connected with metro lines 1, 4, 7, 11, and 14, including stops like Hîtel de Ville and Chñtelet. It’s a practical spot for visitors, close to both history and the Marais’s lively streets.

TOUR RECOMENDATIONS
In The 4th Arrondissement

My favorite bike tour to lead for Bike About Tours is their Paris Local Districts and Stories Off the Beaten Track Guided Bike Tour.

Leading a bike tour for Bike About Tours

In Place des Vosges while leading a bike tour for Bike About Tours.

If you’d prefer a walking tour through the Marais, you can check out my tour here

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
A Riverside Retreat in the 4th Arrondissement

Looking across the river at Île Saint-Louis

© 2025 James Christopher Knight

Nestled along the Seine in the 4th arrondissement (Google Map of the location), this quiet stretch of riverbank is one of my favorite places to escape the city’s hustle. Whether you’re strolling along the water, lingering over a drink, or simply soaking in the ambiance, it’s a spot that feels quintessentially Parisian.

In the morning, the area is particularly magical. The soft light of the rising sun illuminates the stone facades of Île Saint-Louis across the river, casting a warm glow that’s worth savoring. It’s the kind of peaceful moment that makes you fall in love with Paris all over again.

If you’re in the mood for a drink or a bite, stop by Les Nautes, a cozy restaurant perched right on the Seine. It’s the perfect spot to sip a glass of wine while watching the riverboats glide by. For something a little different, head downriver to explore the barges turned restaurants, like Les Maquereaux Rive Droite, where you can enjoy fresh seafood and cocktails with a view.

Hanging out at Les Nautes in Paris

Hanging out at Les Nautes © 2024 James Christopher Knight

For a more casual experience, pack a picnic or grab a bottle of wine and find a spot along the riverside steps. There’s nothing quite like sitting by the water, surrounded by the hum of the city, yet feeling completely at ease. It’s a slice of Paris that’s both vibrant and serene, and once you discover it, you’ll find yourself returning again and again.

When the riverside bar is open, the atmosphere becomes even livelier, with locals and visitors mingling over drinks as the sun sets. It’s a reminder that Paris isn’t just about grand monuments and iconic landmarks—it’s also about these quiet, intimate moments that make the city so special.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Laurent Lamarca & Ben Mazué - La mer est calme

This beautiful track, La mer est calme (The Sea is Calm), is a soothing blend of poetic lyrics and gentle melodies that feels like a deep breath of fresh sea air. Laurent Lamarca and Ben Mazué capture a sense of serenity and reflection, much like a peaceful moment by the water.

As you listen, let the calmness of the song transport you to a quiet Parisian moment—perhaps sitting along the Seine, watching the world go by. It’s a perfect soundtrack for a reflective pause amidst the hustle and bustle of daily life.

Discover More with Paris Love Affair

five star reviews for Paris Love Affair Tours

If you're enjoying The Paris Love Letter, there's so much more to explore! Dive deeper into the Parisian experience with our curated offerings:

  • Join Our Paris Tours: Experience the magic of Paris firsthand with our intimate tours, where we uncover the city's hidden gems and share the stories behind its iconic landmarks. Click Here.

  • Paris Photo Daily Newsletter: For those who can't get enough of Paris, subscribe to our other newsletter, Paris Photo Daily, for a daily dose of stunning photography, from vintage classics to modern cityscapes and interesting stories. Click Here.

  • Paris Photography Workshop: Take your photography to the next level with our exclusive Paris workshop this May, co-hosted with the talented Zaman. Together, we’ll explore the city’s most photogenic spots while sharing tips and techniques to help you capture Paris at its best. Click Here

  • Visit Our Print Shop: Bring a piece of Paris into your home with our exclusive prints, perfect for adding a touch of elegance to any space. Click Here.

  • Connect with Us on Social Media: Follow us on Facebook and Instagram for the latest updates, behind-the-scenes glimpses, and more Parisian inspiration.

We love sharing our passion for Paris with you and hope these resources enrich your journey with us. Merci, for being part of our community!

The Paris Love Letter is our way of sharing authentic Parisian experiences, hidden gems, and cultural insights—all while keeping the newsletter free for our readers. To help cover the costs of creating this content, we occasionally include affiliate links for products we genuinely use and recommend with no extra cost to you. Additionally, we produce our own fine art photo prints, Paris walking tours, and guides, crafted with care to share the beauty and stories of Paris. These are not affiliate products but part of our passion for connecting you to the city we love. Rest assured, we never take commissions from restaurants, and all our recommendations are driven by honesty and a genuine appreciation for Paris.

Reply

or to participate.