🇫🇷 💌 The Paris Love Letter

Parisian Tea Houses + Hôtel de Sen + Poetry of Parisian Parks + Lost Palace of Paris + 'Sinking House' of Montmartre

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'Sinking House' of Montmartre ©️2023 James Christopher Knight

In This Issue of The Paris Love Letter

  • Café Culture - A Guide to Parisian Tea Houses: Savoring Serenity in the City of Lights

  • Hidden Gems - Hôtel de Sens: A Medieval Marvel in the Heart of Paris

  • Art & Literature - The Poetry of Parisian Parks: Where Nature Meets Literature

  • A Peek Into History - The Lost Palace of Paris: A Journey Through Time

  • Parisian Musings - Beyond the Facade: The 'Sinking House' of Montmartre and Cognitive Reflection

  • French Song of The Week - "Sous les ponts de Paris" by Lucienne Delyle

FOUND IN PARIS
Fun & Useful Links

Maybe it's my current cravings speaking, or simply a fascination with culinary delights, but I've found myself blissfully lost in a rabbit hole of articles about the food scene in Paris. 😋

➡️ The 38 Essential Restaurants in Paris - From timeless bistros to modern culinary marvels, this article from Eater may help you plan your meals on your next Paris adventure.

➡️ David Lebovitz Website - David Lebovitz is a professional chef and author living in Paris who shares recipes of popular Parisian dishes on his blog.

➡️ Five places to fill up on good bread in Paris - From the traditional baguette to 'baked bread,' the aroma of spices to roasted hazelnuts, and a dense or light texture, these five inventive boulangeries have a variety of options on offer, without an (overly) inflated pricetag.

CAFÉ CULTURE
A Guide to Parisian Tea Houses: Savoring Serenity in the City of Lights

Paris, while renowned for its café culture, also harbors a less-explored but equally enchanting world of tea houses. We're venturing into this tranquil realm, showcasing the best and most unique tea houses scattered across the city. These spots not only offer an extensive selection of teas but also provide a distinct ambiance and delectable treats that elevate the tea-drinking experience.

Let's begin our journey at Mariage Frères, a tea institution in the Marais. This place isn't just about sipping tea; it's an immersion into a world of flavors and aromas. With an astounding variety of teas from around the globe, their tea salon exudes a colonial elegance, making it a perfect spot for those who appreciate the finer things in life. Don't miss their exquisite tea-infused pastries, a delightful fusion of French patisserie and aromatic teas.

Next, we'll visit Nina's Marie-Antoinette, a tea house that's as much about history as it is about tea. Located near Place Vendôme, Nina's offers a unique blend named after Marie-Antoinette, using roses and apples from the King's Kitchen Garden. The salon itself is a tribute to the French queen’s love for exquisite flavors and luxurious surroundings.

For a more contemporary setting, L'Heure Gourmande in the heart of the Latin Quarter offers a cozy escape. This hidden gem, tucked away in Passage Dauphine, is known for its charming atmosphere and a fine selection of teas. Pair your choice with their delicious homemade cakes or savory quiches for a leisurely afternoon retreat.

The Grande Mosquée de Paris

Not to be overlooked is The Grande Mosquée de Paris Tea Room. This spot offers a unique experience with its North African-inspired décor and a selection of Maghrebi mint teas. Accompany your tea with traditional North African sweets for a taste of something different in the heart of Paris. You can read more about The Grand Mosquée de Paris in a previous issue of our newsletter here.

Lastly, Café de Flore – while primarily known as a historic café, also offers a noteworthy tea experience. With its iconic Art Deco interior and bustling Saint-Germain-des-Prés ambiance, it's a wonderful place to enjoy a cup of tea while watching the world go by.

Whether you’re a tea aficionado or just looking for a peaceful spot to unwind, Paris’s tea houses provide a serene counterpoint to the city’s lively café scene.

HIDDEN GEMS
Hôtel de Sens: A Medieval Marvel in the Heart of Paris

In the heart of the 4th arrondissement, the Hôtel de Sens stands as a striking relic of medieval Paris. This architectural jewel, among the few surviving examples of medieval civil architecture in the city, offers a captivating journey back to a time of Gothic grandeur.

Constructed between 1475 and 1507, it was originally the residence of the archbishops of Sens. Its design epitomizes the late medieval Gothic style, adorned with turrets, gargoyles, and a commanding stone façade. Approaching the Hôtel de Sens, you're instantly swept away to the Middle Ages, an era of narrow, winding streets and imposing stone edifices.

The mansion's storied past is etched in every stone. It even bears a cannonball from the July Revolution of 1830, a silent witness to its tumultuous history. Over the centuries, it has transitioned from an archbishop's abode to a salt storehouse, private residence, and factory before embracing its current role.

Now home to the Forney Art Library, the Hôtel de Sens continues to enchant visitors with its blend of historic charm and artistic significance. While the interior has seen modern renovations, it retains elements of its medieval roots, with grand rooms and ornate fireplaces that hark back to its noble beginnings.

Hôtel de Sens c. 1904

Perhaps the most enchanting aspect of the Hôtel de Sens is its hidden gardens. These serene spaces, nestled behind the building, offer a quiet escape from the city's hustle and bustle. Here, in the shadow of the majestic mansion, you can indulge in the tranquility of historic Paris.

Gardens of Hôtel de Sens

The Hôtel de Sens is more than just a building; it's a piece of Paris's rich tapestry, a rare glimpse into the city's medieval past, tucked away in one of its most lively districts.

ART & LITERATURE
The Poetry of Parisian Parks: Where Nature Meets Literature

Luxembourg Gardens ©️2023 James Christopher Knight

Parisian parks, with their verdant allure and tranquil landscapes, have not just offered respite to the city's residents but have also been a perennial source of inspiration in literature and poetry. Their presence in literary works ranges from background settings to pivotal thematic elements, reflecting the changing moods and seasons of Paris.

The Luxembourg Gardens have been immortalized in the poems of Charles Baudelaire, particularly in "Le Jardin" from "Le Spleen de Paris." Baudelaire captures the garden's tranquil yet somber mood, contrasting the natural beauty with the inner turmoil of the city's dwellers. In Victor Hugo's “Les Misérables,” these gardens are a backdrop for the developing romance between Marius and Cosette, symbolizing a space of love and hope amidst the tumult of Paris.

Jardin des Tuileries finds a mention in Marcel Proust's "In Search of Lost Time." Proust beautifully weaves the garden into his narrative, using it as a symbol of elegance, fleeting beauty, and the transient nature of human relationships. The meticulous design of the Tuileries mirrors the structured yet fragile social fabric of Parisian society in his work.

Jardin des Tuileries

Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is celebrated in the modernist poetry of Guillaume Apollinaire. In his poem "Le Pont Mirabeau," although not directly naming the park, he alludes to the landscapes reminiscent of the park's scenery. The park's rugged beauty and its contrast to the urban environment offer a metaphor for the complexities of modern life.

In more recent literature, Parc Montsouris appears in "The Elegance of the Hedgehog" by Muriel Barbery. The park serves as a refuge and a place of introspection for the characters, embodying the tranquility and unspoken conversations between the novel's protagonists.

These parks, through the lens of poets and authors, become more than just public spaces; they transform into vignettes of Parisian life, capturing the essence of different eras and emotions. In our examination of these literary works, we get to experience the parks as realms of reflection, love, social commentary, and natural beauty intertwined deeply with the heart and history of Paris.

A PEEK INTO HISTORY
The Lost Palace of Paris: A Journey Through Time

Tuileries Palace

In the ever-evolving cityscape of Paris, some of its most magnificent historical treasures are the palaces that once stood proudly but now exist only in paintings, photographs, and the pages of history books. Among these, the Tuileries Palace holds a special place, both for its architectural grandeur and its pivotal role in the narrative of royal and imperial France.

The Tuileries Palace, initially commissioned by Catherine de' Medici in 1564, stood as a symbol of the French monarchy's opulence. Nestled between the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde, it was a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture, complete with sprawling gardens that are still one of Paris's most beloved green spaces. Over the centuries, the palace witnessed crucial historical events, including the turbulent times of the French Revolution and the reign of Napoleon Bonaparte, who transformed it into an imperial residence.

Napoleon on the throne at the Tuileries Palace (1810)

However, the Tuileries Palace's grandeur was not to last. During the upheavals of the Paris Commune in 1871, the palace met a tragic end. Engulfed in flames, the once-majestic structure was reduced to ruins, a stark symbol of the fate of an era. The decision to not rebuild it was a conscious step towards a new republic, a shift from monarchical and imperial dominance to the people's rule.

Banquet for women given by Louis Phillipe (1835)

The demise of the Tuileries Palace marked a significant architectural and cultural loss for Paris. Yet, its legacy lives on, not just in the Tuileries Garden, which continues to be a haven for Parisians and tourists alike, but also as a poignant reminder of the city's resilience and ability to reinvent itself through the ages.

In remembering the lost palaces of Paris, we are reminded of the transient nature of glory and the relentless march of time that spares no grandeur. These palaces, now lost to history, continue to fascinate and remind us of the layers of history that underpin the streets of Paris, each layer a testament to the city's ever-changing yet eternally enduring spirit.

PARISIAN MUSINGS
Beyond the Facade: The 'Sinking House' of Montmartre and Cognitive Reflection

'Sinking House' of Montmartre ©️2023 James Christopher Knight

Amidst the artistic vibrancy of Montmartre, there's an unassuming spectacle one often sees in photographs - the 'Sinking House' near Sacré-Cœur. At first glance, it's an architectural anomaly, seemingly defying gravity. But, this visual quirk is nothing more than an illusion, a playful camera trick of perspective. It's a beautiful deception that always leads me to a moment of contemplation.

In a city as layered and complex as Paris, the 'Sinking House' is a symbol of the hidden depths beneath the surface. It's a call to look beyond the obvious, to seek out the narratives that aren't immediately visible. Just like the winding streets of Montmartre, which hold secrets in their every turn, my understanding of the world around me is often just a glimpse of a larger, more intricate tapestry.

Paris, in its infinite wisdom, teaches me to embrace the unknown and acknowledge my perception's limitations. It’s a constant reminder that there is always more to discover, understand, and see beyond what is immediately apparent.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
"Sous les ponts de Paris" by Lucienne Delyle

This week's French Song of the Week takes us on a melodious journey beneath the iconic bridges of Paris with "Sous les ponts de Paris" by Lucienne Delyle. This nostalgic tune, steeped in the romanticism of the City of Lights, beautifully evokes the serene and poetic ambiance of strolling along the Seine. Delyle's enchanting voice, coupled with the song's evocative lyrics, transports us to the heart of Paris, offering a timeless tribute to the city's enduring charm.

Thank you for spending time with us through this newsletter. We hope it brings a little ‘joie de vivre’ to your day. As you head into the weekend, may it be filled with moments that uplift and inspire you. If you've enjoyed reading, please forward this newsletter to anyone you think would appreciate it, too. The sign-up form is below.

Wishing you a wonderful weekend full of joie de vivre!

James & Laura

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