Our Week in Paris

Bonjour, friends!

First of all, Happy Independence Day to all of our American Friends! We wish you a wonderful Fourth of July, the very best BBQ (if you're grilling), and lots of fireworks!

We had a heat wave this week in Paris, with temperatures so high that our son's school asked parents to keep their kids home if possible. Yes, it’s true that most buildings in Paris don’t have air conditioning.

We found some relief in the city’s parks, such as Butte Chaumont, which offered a bit of shade and a welcome breeze.

I also caught a glimpse of the stage and venue being set up at Hôtel de Ville for FNAC Live Paris. There’s something special about seeing concerts in such an iconic spot.

I’ve been busy leading tours with Paris Love Affair this week, but I’ve still spent as much time as possible at cafes, which remains my favorite way to enjoy the city. 😋

👇 This is where I’m “penning” these opening paragraphs. It’s just another Parisian cafe, but I think there’s something quite lovely about the average, unknown Parisian cafe.

Linking You to Paris

➡️ Paris in July 2025: Events, Exhibitions, The Outdoors & More: HipParis shares top things to do in Paris in July, from outdoor festivals and concerts to family-friendly events and summer exhibitions, making it a lively month for both locals and visitors.

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➡️ She ditched New York for Paris at the age of 79 and says it’s the best decision she’s ever made: CNN Travel features the inspiring story of an American woman who moved to Paris at age 79, embracing a new chapter of life and proving it’s never too late for adventure.

VISITING PARIS
The 18th arrondissement

As we approach the end of our arrondissement series (there are 20 in total), we’re visiting the 18th this week. This popular destination in the North of Paris is an area where I’ve taken tour guests many times, including photography groups for classic scenes of the city.

The 18th is primarily known for the Montmartre neighborhood, which is a relatively small but exceedingly charming part of the 18th. Its identity took shape before its 1860 incorporation, when it was outside Paris’ limits, offering tax-free food and drink that made nights out cheaper. It was also lacking strict laws, allowing cabarets, prostitution, and a bohemian culture to thrive.

History and Main Sights

The 18th was a rural village before it was incorporated into Paris in 1860 during Haussmann’s renovations. The Montmartre neighborhood became an artistic haven in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, with painters such as Picasso, Van Gogh, and Toulouse-Lautrec drawn to its bohemian atmosphere. We don’t know with certainty, but its name is likely linked to early Christian martyrs (Montmartre).

Sacré-Cœur Basilica crowns the hill, offering panoramic views. Place du Tertre is lively with artists, but it’s more like Disneyland, manufactured for tourists, with many gift shops selling cheap imported oil paintings from China.

The Wall of Love displays “I love you” in over 250 languages. Montmartre’s cobblestone streets, like Rue de l’Abreuvoir, and historic windmills, such as Moulin de la Galette, reflect its past. Espace Dalí showcases Salvador Dalí’s surrealist works. Montmartre Cemetery, smaller than Père Lachaise, is a beautiful spot with graves of artists like Degas.

Art and Cultural Scene

The 18th’s cultural scene thrives in Montmartre’s bohemian spirit. Le Trianon, where I recently saw a show, is a fantastic venue with ornate decor. Le Consulat, a café since 1935, was a haunt for artists like Picasso. Today, like a Kardashian, Le Consulat is famous for being famous.

Street art, including Invader’s murals, dots the district. The Musée de Montmartre explores the area’s artistic legacy with works by Toulouse-Lautrec. Cabaret Au Lapin Agile, near La Maison Rose, has a rich history. It opened in 1860 as Cabaret des Assassins, was renamed in 1875, and became a hub for Picasso and Apollinaire.

Food and Hidden Gems

The 18th’s food scene centers on Montmartre’s lively streets. Rue des Abbesses offers bistros like Le Coq & Fils, which is known for poultry dishes. Chez Toinette provides intimate French cuisine. Café des Deux Moulins, famous from Amélie, isn’t an amazing restaurant, but it’s worth a stop for movie fans.

Marché de la Chapelle offers a variety of fresh produce and baked goods. For a hidden gem, Parc Marcel Bleustein-Blanchet, behind Sacré-Cœur, is a quiet park with rose gardens I’ve written about before (find the article here). The Clos Montmartre, a tiny vineyard, produces between 1,000 and 1,500 bottles of wine annually.

Where to Stay

The 18th offers accommodations for all budgets. Hôtel des Arts Montmartre provides budget-friendly rooms with a local feel. Terrass’’ Hôtel, where I’ve taken my tour guests, offers boutique charm with a stunning view from its terrace.

Hôtel Particulier, also a tour stop, provides upscale elegance with a secluded luxury environment for drinks or dinner (I wrote an article about it here). For budget travelers, Le Village Hostel offers dorms and private rooms. The 18th has a creative energy and convenient metro connections, making it a lively place to stay. However, it might not be the most practical option if you’re looking for quick and easy access to central Paris.

PARIS HIDDEN GEMS
Rue de l’Abreuvoir’s Historic Stroll

If you’re in Montmartre’s 18th arrondissement, don’t miss Rue de l’Abreuvoir, a picturesque street I’ve photographed several times, and my guests really enjoy walking.

This cobblestone path winds uphill, offering a perfect spot for capturing Sacré-Cœur peeking out above the buildings. At the bottom, where it turns into Rue Girardon, you’ll find the famous bust of Dalida, honoring the beloved singer who once lived nearby.

The street’s name comes from a horse trough that stood here. Before its 1860 incorporation into Paris, the area’s steep streets relied on horse-drawn carriages. Drivers would bring their horses here at day’s end to drink.

This history makes it a fascinating walk, blending natural beauty with a glimpse into the past of Paris. For visitors seeking Montmartre’s authentic charm, Rue de l’Abreuvoir is a delightful find, perfect for a leisurely stroll and memorable photos.

FRENCH SONG OF THE WEEK
Barbara - Ma plus belle histoire d'amour

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